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Old 02 July 2013, 15:46   #1
Shaytan
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Scratched A1200 expansion connector

Hi, a friend of mine gave me his A1200 which long ago had a 8Mb RAM expansion board installed (Logica Omega 1200). After a board's battery leak the Amiga stopped booting, but disconnecting the expansion everything was working normally. He thought of a card failure and left the Amiga unexpanded.

Now i have that Amiga 1200 + the expansion board.
The card after some cleaning frome the leakage it's working properly....on MY A1200.

Having a quick look on his A1200, after removing the shielding, i noticed that there are 2 or maybe 3 scratched golden lines on the expansion connector which i think are the cause of the malfunction when the board is connected.

My question is: is it something that can be fixed?
I did some quick reserch on PCI damaged connector or something and didn't find anything useful...

I will provide some photos of the damage as soon as i return home.


Thanks in advance
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Last edited by Shaytan; 02 July 2013 at 21:23. Reason: Add damage pictures
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Old 02 July 2013, 19:36   #2
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take a look at this video: " [ Show youtube player ]" - or search for "pcb trace repair".
on ebay you find such Silver Conductive Paste Paint - just an example, maybe there are better products available.
before you begin to repair the 1200-board, just test your skills on an old pcb - old pc cards or things. a magnifying glass may help too.
just take some close-ups with your camera and post them here. will help to give better solutions
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Old 02 July 2013, 21:20   #3
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Added photos of connector top and bottom to first post, hope you guys can help me finding a solution!
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Old 03 July 2013, 12:00   #4
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Clean the affected pins with Contact Cleaner, use a mildly abrasive sponge that hasn't been wet with water to clear the corrosion. It's likely that the connectors will still make reliable contact after this but if they don't then look for conductive silver paint and apply a top coat with a fine tipped paint brush.
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Old 03 July 2013, 14:15   #5
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Clean pads with pencil rubber, use some solvent ( isopropyl alcohol, acetone or similar) to remove remains then make pictures with MACRO and decent light.
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Old 03 July 2013, 20:36   #6
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Did some more cleaning like Loedown and pandy71 suggested.

Here are two (i hope) better pictures.

Thanks
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Old 04 July 2013, 01:47   #7
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Lightbulb PCB Repair

They are a bit expensive in the shops but you can get PCB repair pens that use conductive ink.

Just make sure you get one with a very fine tip, they do take a while to dry though.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/PCB-pen-CW...item5af2ccfee8
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Old 04 July 2013, 02:01   #8
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Maybe I somehow got a bad one but I bought one of those conductive pens and it was utter crap. The way the wee push in pen nib works made it impossible to get any sort of controllable flow never mind draw a really fine line.

Get the silver paint, it's expensive but very effective. If you don't have a good enough brush or steady enough hand to make a tidy job, you can scrape off the excess after with a scalpel or needle file.
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Old 04 July 2013, 23:51   #9
pandy71
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How to do it is related to what skills you have - silver paint is OK but this is single time solution, better is use very thin wire (very thin, like 0.06mm), some copper film (foil 15 - 35um) , some epoxy glue and recreate corrupted pad (only one pad need reconstruction, remain can be carefully soldered with help of thin wire. and try to not put tin on pads - tin dilute gold and make very poor connection for gold plated joints. As a rule - gold with gold, tin with tin.
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Old 05 July 2013, 07:13   #10
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I would try bridging it with solder if the outer end had anything to solder to,
does look like a pen or paint is the only option left...
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Old 05 July 2013, 08:50   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by xArtx View Post
I would try bridging it with solder if the outer end had anything to solder to,
does look like a pen or paint is the only option left...
Not recommended because when you solder across a mass you have surface tension effect which will put a bulge in the middle of it and also when the accelerator card is plugged in and removed you have a high chance of scraping off the solder which may then in turn lodge in the connector and cause shorts.
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Old 06 July 2013, 05:59   #12
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Originally Posted by Loedown View Post
Not recommended because when you solder across a mass you have surface tension effect which will put a bulge in the middle of it and also when the accelerator card is plugged in and removed you have a high chance of scraping off the solder which may then in turn lodge in the connector and cause shorts.
I would expect the solder to be stronger than the paint,
But I only have experience with solder, and not the paint.
You are supposed to be able to solder over the paint.

If it were me I would jump the connector completely,
but only appropriate if the board is a permanent part of the A1200.
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Old 06 July 2013, 06:27   #13
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Originally Posted by xArtx View Post
I would expect the solder to be stronger than the paint,
But I only have experience with solder, and not the paint.
You are supposed to be able to solder over the paint.

If it were me I would jump the connector completely,
but only appropriate if the board is a permanent part of the A1200.

As the solder will bulge as I wrote, when you plug in or remove anything it will drag across the highest point ( the solder ) and scrape it. Although your second suggestion isn't a bad one, use a Molex connector or similar and put a socket on one side and a plug on the other. I used that technique on an A1000 recently with the Spirit board. Only necessary if you have intermittent problems.
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