A1200 2B mb. Timing Fix, Indi MKII and others.

[Retrofan]

Hi:
After trying for some days my 2B mobo using a Fast Ata MKII, ACA1230/56 and the Indi MKII, I've decided that I've got to try the Timing Fix, as I was having problems with some screen modes, but also from time ago "blockid errors" that I can't fix.

Well: I'll be following Ian's guide for the timing fix:

http://www.ianstedman.co.uk/Amiga/am..._mobo_fix.html

To start I've desoldered E123C and E125C:




Using chipquik is very fast and easy.

Then I've soldered the

Clockport to Paula wire link (REV 2B only):

This is his original photo:



And this is mine:



Then I've done the

U8 8520 CIA Wire link (REV 2B Only)

This is his photo:



And this is mine:



Now I need to make two things from his web:

Resistor added by ROMs (REV 2B Only):

His photo:



I've bought this 470R, but it's carbon, I didn't find metal film:

http://www.ebay.es/itm/290549067473?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649

Edit: Ok I've bought also metal film: http://www.ebay.es/itm/270967459679?...84.m1439.l2649 , but it seems he used carbon ones (by the colors). I don't know, but I think it's better metal film ones:
http://www.aikenamps.com/ResistorNoise.htm

"Conclusions:
In general, for low-noise design:
Keep resistance values low, because thermal noise is directly proportional to resistance value.
Wirewound resistors are the best choice for noise, followed by metal film, metal oxide, carbon film, and lastly, carbon composition. However, wirewound resistors are not readily available in large resistance values, and are usually inductive, which can cause instability problems in some cases. "


Finally to change R118 to 220R I've bought this resistor:

http://www.ebay.es/itm/250999177821?...84.m1439.l2649 (metal film), although I've seen also smd ones in different sizes:

0603: http://www.ebay.es/itm/100-SMD-SMT-0...item4166a61a60

or 0805: http://www.ebay.es/itm/100-x-SMD-SMT...item4166bb76ad

I don't know if I can use them and what size. My R118 has 2mm.

Please tell me if I've bought or done anything wrong. I REALLY think I'm mistaked. Just by the colors (Edit: It seems metal and carbon ones have different colors?¿)

[Retrofan]

Well I had a 470R resistor in my 1A mobo (for spares). The thing is that in Ian's photo I can't see very well where is he soldering it.

I've done this: Edit: Btw Ian, if you read this and you like the photo, you can use it.




This is his photo:




Please somebody tell me if it's ok.

Edit I was asking the pinout of Alice, to search for continuity in pin 43, but I would be getting surely continuity in several of them.

[roy bates]

looks good to me,all the custom chips are marked with a pin 1 and i think you just count round clockwise until you get to the one you want.

[FOL]

@Retrofan,

The spot on the chip is pin 1, you then count Anti-clockwise around the chip.

[roy bates]

Originally Posted by FOL

@Retrofan,

The spot on the chip is pin 1, you then count Anti-clockwise around the chip.

yep,doh my bad

[Retrofan]

Yep, I think you're right:




But I wasn't having continuity with pin 43 of Alice. It's the other hole beside it (it has). I will solder it again now. (Edit: I was looking the wrong pin with a wrong image)-

Ian's web: "The connection to C6B (brown SMT capacitor) is to pick up +5V. The resistor that has been added is a 470 Ohm, 0.25W resistor that then connects to DRA0 (DRAM address bus bit 0) by a PCB via. The timing modifications below state you should connect a 470 Ohm resistor from +5V to pin 43 of Alice, this modification does the same thing."

[FOL]

, As I said in my warning.
I knew there were two holes. Bloody nightmare, .

Do as I do and check a few time, just to make sure you have'nt counted the pins out wrong.

[Retrofan]

Ups! Sorry my photo isn't good, as Alice has more pins. I'll delete it and will search for another and will look where do I need the continuity.
Edited, now the photo is right. Well, I think it's ok in the first place I had soldered it (now it's unsoldered), but I have continuity in a couple of different holes, as I was supossing (just inserting the pin of the multimeter there and in pin 43). I will solder again to the first one.

Edit: Ok, I've soldered again like in my previous photo. I've got continuity with pin 43 of Alice, although it's true that other hole also has it (nothing that I have done, of course). In fact in the 1A mobo I've tried and it has a lot of holes there with continuity with pin 43 too. So, I hope I've used the right one just for Ian's photo.

Edit: I coudn't be really sure about the continuity (I mean, if the resistor was well soldered). Why? Because the smd on the other side of where I solder it also has continuity with pin 43. So I've desoldered from that part and now I'm sure that the resistor at least is well soldered as it has continuity.

Now only remains to get and solder the 220R. I don't think I'll need to make Jen's 1K Fix.

Anyway I'll copy here his post for if I have to use it:

Originally Posted by Schoenfeld

Gibs,

Your video title is misleading. What you see is a Blitter glitch, not an Indivision AGA MK2 glitch. Just like the old version of Indivision AGA, this new one takes the AGA chipset to it's limits, and on some, you see that timing errors of the chipset have not been corrected properly on all boards. If you remove Indivision AGA MK2 and display that video mode on a monitor that can handle these frequencies, you will see that the glitches are still there.

You may have to do more tweaks to your mainboard. This looks like a wrong blitter call, where your accelerator's timing does not match the mainboard's timing. I'm assuming that this is the cause for the Blitter doing funny things in your computer.

Your photo shows two arrows and "0.5k" - if that means that the resistance between these spots is 0.5k, then the falling edge of the CCK signal gets too flat, probably making matters worse. Check E127R (might have to be replaced with a ferrite) and E127C (might have to be removed), but also the usual suspects E123C and E125C that may have to be removed for proper accelerator operation.
Jens

And this: http://eab.abime.net/showpost.php?p=...postcount=1359

Perhaps I'll have to solder again E123C and E125C. I will see.

[Retrofan]

Well, I've bought a 220R, 1/4w resistor in a local shop, and I've soldered it:





Btw: This is how Ian did it:




Now I've made all the mods in Ian's guide. I've booted the miggy and it boots just like before, no other ploblem added. Now I've got in on using HighGfx. Will have to see what happens in an hour, that was when I had the vertical bars.

Anyway there's a thing which I still have: Moving the icon "Run", or the Bin, I get a black screen for a second. Anyway, as I said in other post, I do think this last problem will be fixed with IC's update.

Will tell later if I don't have the bars that is what I want (appart of having a HD CF without blockid errors). BTW: I'm running the miggy now without any fan.

[Retrofan]

This is what has happened: I was running it for half an hour and it has gone to black .

Now it works, but the indi doesn't. As soon as I select HighGfx or Superplus I have no screen through Hdmi. I didn't touch the Indi, but now I've unplugged it and plugged again, but nothing.

What has happened?

[gibs]

I guess you don't have another motherboard to test if the Indi is ok ?

[Retrofan]

Originally Posted by gibs

I guess you don't have another motherboard to test if the Indi is ok ?

Yes, I do have (1D1) and I've just tried it now. Nothing. The same as the other. The miggy works perfect, but when selecting any Indi screen it goes to black screen. And I've taked it off and a chip under it gets too hot: XILINX.

What do I think? It's just casuality that it has happened after the timing fix (and half an hour later), working without fan with HighGfx. The Amiga works perfect. It's just the Indi that had any problem from the beginning (the vertical bars that anybody else has and the screen to black moving icons)-

I'm going to write to Vesalia now. Anyway I think I should send both (mb too).

What do you think???

[kipper2k]

Originally Posted by Retrofan

Yes, I do have (1D1) and I've just tried it now. Nothing. The same as the other. The miggy works perfect, but when selecting any Indi screen it goes to black screen. And I've taked it off and a chip under it gets too hot: XILINX.

What do I think? It's just casuality that it has happened after the timing fix (and half an hour later), working without fan with HighGfx. The Amiga works perfect. It's just the Indi that had any problem from the beginning (the vertical bars that anybody else has and the screen to black moving icons)-

I'm going to write to Vesalia now. Anyway I think I should send both (mb too).

What do you think???

did you reflash the core in case it got corrupted somehoe ?

[Retrofan]

Thanks for posting kipper2k. No, and I appreciate your advice, but I won't try to make it. Seeing the Indi so hot and not working I think the best will be to send it back.

Edit: What I've only tried apart of changing the mb is to use IC's adapter, but it's the same.

Anyway, what do you think, do you believe that if the miggy is working fine the fix can have done any harm to the Indi, or that it was defective with those [ Show youtube player ]? Or the first video I did, but with dirty lens... [ Show youtube player ]

[DonAmiga]

Hi sorry that its not working hope you get the support needed and not have to wait to long to have it back up and running

[roy bates]

just send the indi back.

i hope you get it sorted out and it not broken.

[kipper2k]

Originally Posted by Retrofan

Thanks for posting kipper2k. No, and I appreciate your advice, but I won't try to make it. Seeing the Indi too hot and not working I think the best will be to send it back.

Edit: What I've only tried apart of changing the mb is to use IC's adapter, but it's the same.

Anyway, what do you think, do you believe that if the miggy is working fine the fix can have done any harm to the Indi, or that it was defective with those vertical bars?

As far as i have read the new cores were beta cores so i think they were a work in progress that could have unexpected results. The Xilinx should not get that hot, that normally indicates either internal problems or corrupt programming forcing it ibnto a repetitive loop causing it to go into overdrive (just like those PC apps that force the CPU into 100% usage). I believe it is the Xilinx that holds the programming (not sure) but if that is extremely hot then something is wrong either with the chip or programming, but theres a bit of guestimation with this also. When the Indi is in control the Amiga video system is idle so thats why your basic video system is still intact. As always, this is speculation

[Retrofan]

Thanks DonAmiga. If you know me I don't mind to wait to have what I want. For example I had the Indi unopened just waiting for kipper's adapter:

Originally Posted by Retrofan

My Indi has just arrived. I'm very happy, it's wonderful. Look:



Excuse me for the bad quality. Aaah! How happy...

Ah, yes, I will open it when I'll have kippers2k's cable , as I can't try it without that.

[johnim]

hi mate sorry to hear this, i hope it is somthing simple

[Retrofan]

Thanks to all of you, mates. A word of Jens would be appreciated too ... but he's working out for a week... . And I KNOW and can tell he has treated me really well with their Warranty and Support.

Perhaps Fol could tell something, even more as it will be a job for Vesalia (... I wish I would had bought it to Amigakit -just 'cause they are here-, but I did the preorder 2 years ago...) -Another prove about that I don't mind to wait a little for what I want- . And Vesalia has given me an incredible good service in all I've bought in the past, so I think it will be the same now, as always has. When I had problems with the Delfina, it was Vesalia the one that solved them all (well, and IC in first place, of course). And then it was my mistake. Now I haven't done anything to the Indi.