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Old 30 December 2012, 22:11   #21
foob
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oddly enough, i decided to go ahead and open it anyway given i'm generally an impatient person.

this is what i saw - http://i.imgur.com/7850w.jpg

I inspected the switch responsible for left-clicking, it appeared to press down fine and work OK when operated by finger. put it back together again without (intentionally) changing anything and this time around the mouse has a different feel to clicking (a lot less haptic feedback than before). Now it seems to work fine. There's the odd no-response click every 5-6 clicks or so but this is under normal pressure. Maybe the casing was just mis-aligned, im not sure. I prefer to think i'm magic (or just lucky).
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Old 30 December 2012, 22:25   #22
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Do you remember if both switches were on same level?
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Old 30 December 2012, 22:43   #23
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they appeared to be, although i didn't measure it. they were both firmly soldered to the board.
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Old 30 December 2012, 22:45   #24
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No, I mean just these small black plastic clicking switches. My mouse was dead because one was lower than other.
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Old 30 December 2012, 22:55   #25
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well thats good news,i sure if you could use a soldering iron you could replace them.


it looks like one of these:








its a momentary press the make switch by the way.

s2325 has a point if its just slightly lower it wont work properly.but if you have to push down on it with the force of an elaphant its better off being replaced.(the switch i mean)

Last edited by roy bates; 30 December 2012 at 23:08.
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Old 30 December 2012, 23:09   #26
Mrs Beanbag
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I think these switches slowly move in their sockets when you use them a lot, a bit like teeth.
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Old 30 December 2012, 23:15   #27
roy bates
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if you look at the side of the mouse as you press the button,theres a maximum length of travel limited by the gap in the mold between the button(not the switch)you have your finger on and the base of the mouse.

it could mean either the switch has been flattened a bit.

or the tongue under the part you have your finger on is a bit worn.

if you got a soldering iron and melted the solder enough to pull the switch up a bit to meet the tongue(2 or so mm) it may be anough to make it work again.(you may have to put padding under the switch to stop it being pushed off the solder pads when in use)


what say you lads?
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Old 30 December 2012, 23:58   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by roy bates View Post
if you got a soldering iron and melted the solder enough to pull the switch up a bit to meet the tongue(2 or so mm) it may be anough to make it work again.(you may have to put padding under the switch to stop it being pushed off the solder pads when in use)

what say you lads?
That sounds like a good solution in principle. However, I would make sure you use something 'solid' for the padding, rather than, for example, cardboard (maybe some thin plastic from an old credit card would do?) to prevent the solder pads being pushed off the pcb if the switch does move.
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Old 31 December 2012, 00:06   #29
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I'd be more inclined to adjust the button than the switch. Build it up with some epoxy resin or something.
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Old 31 December 2012, 00:22   #30
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We stock the two different replacement mouse button switch sets here:

http://amigakit.leamancomputing.com/...roducts_id=786

and here:

http://amigakit.leamancomputing.com/...oducts_id=1108

You would need the first set to match your photo.
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Old 31 December 2012, 01:38   #31
roy bates
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i think both mrs beanbag and prowler has ideas that will work and amigakit has the part if you wish to replace altogether.
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Old 31 December 2012, 13:21   #32
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The switches are common as dirt, used in many models of televisions for the channel up / down, volume up / down. Momentary action and cheap, the switches may *feel* ok but they do go intermittent after time.
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Old 02 January 2013, 20:45   #33
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would you be open to the prospect of building a mouse for me? i'd assume with the price of the mouse included its still going to be way cheaper than buying a converter from amigakit and a suitable mouse to convert on top of that, even if you keep a few quid for yourself?
Assuming that someone else working for you would end up cheaper than paying what a mouse costs is disrespectful.

Plug in the mouse without the shell and ball and test that the left button works.

If it doesn't, buy one at amibay.com or from Airey.
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Old 02 January 2013, 23:25   #34
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ahh the simple fix of taking it apart and giving it a clean, works surprisingly well

as you can see from the internal pic the main difference between a serial/ps2 and an Amiga mouse is that big chip
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Old 03 January 2013, 11:19   #35
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Originally Posted by Loedown View Post
The switches are common as dirt, used in many models of televisions for the channel up / down, volume up / down. Momentary action and cheap, the switches may *feel* ok but they do go intermittent after time.
yeah.. I fixed my Logitech G7 gaming mouse by replacing the microswitches.. Available from many online electronics dealers as well..
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Old 03 January 2013, 19:12   #36
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Always keep the pcbs from old, knackered mice and trackballs to provide donor parts for emergencies such as this.
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