A600 4MB RAM upgrade board (was 8MB)

[kipper2k]

Here's a paper design pic of my final design.



I just have to proof read it a couple of times to make sure there are no glaring errors. I am going to use a 44 pin through hole socket for the atmel which makes building it a whole pile easier. I have also found a way to secure the board down on either side of the CPU so hopefully that will stop the board from popping off. I included a 6 pin programming header for programming the Atmel but (the header itself) wont be on the finished boards, i'll just program the chip off the board and plop it in. The socket that secures to the CPU will be on the underside of the board. I just cut out the hole so i could see how the board sits

[kipper2k]

k,

next step, programming the Atmel1502. Needless to say i didn't have a programmer specifically for the Atmel chips so time to find free software and get out my USB programmer. I found AtmelISP v6.7 that works for this series of Atmel so i downloaded and run it, of course the hardware is LPT so no good for my USB JTag hardware. (Xilinx impact sucked too, that never worked). Needless to say my laptop doesnt have a LPT connector so now i have to use my old file server which has a PCI LPT card.

All i need now is a programmer, look on EBay... cheapest with shipping is $25, and probably a 3 week wait, damn, this day is beginning to suck. Off to the internet again and i find a nice little page that shows some homemade circuits, damn, i don't have a 74ls244 so i cant build that. Then, looky looky, i found someone who built a programmer LPT cable that doesnt need buffer/logic chips, just a few 33ohm resistors and a 25 pin DB connector for the parallel port., so here's a picture of the schematic....




Here is a link to the webpage itself...

http://opencollector.org/history/fre...teBlaster!.htm


So i build this circuit, i put a 44 pin PLCC socket on some cardboard and wire up the needed pins for jtag, i use hot glue to make sure nothing moves too much and breaks something., i add a USB connector to provide the 5v reference voltage to the chip and then connect up the lpt connector circuit.
Now to program the chips... damn, doesnt work, i select the byteblaster hardware, select LPT1 which is my pci parallel board and damn, not working. Ahhhhh, i see, my pci board uses a custom port so i select "other" port and use E800 as my port settings, i create a chain file as shown in the tutorial and Yayyyy, it works.
Cost of my programmer, an old 25 pin connector, cut up USB cable and a few resistors. not bad. So what does this beast look like... Not a very pretty sight lol...



So, while this thing is actually working i take this opportunity to program all my Atmels in case something breaks in the future.

so on we go

[cpiac64]

more jtag need very short cable, max 10 cm

[majsta]

I don't know where did you find price 25$ when you can find JTAG programmer for few USD with free worldwide shipping. Anyhow I was thinking that you will use Altera MAX device for this. Anyhow provide me detailed schematics and I ll check that everything is fine. On those PCB in pdf I only see that capacitors need to be closer to the component... Also I don't support using via's on memory...

[kipper2k]

Originally Posted by majsta

I don't know where did you find price 25$ when you can find JTAG programmer for few USD with free worldwide shipping. Anyhow I was thinking that you will use Altera MAX device for this. Anyhow provide me detailed schematics and I ll check that everything is fine. On those PCB in pdf I only see that capacitors need to be closer to the component... Also I don't support using via's on memory...

Ebay for the prices of the byteblaster, it was either $10 and $15 shipping or free shipping and $25 for the item, and like i sad a 3 week wait at least. so being impatient as i am i decided to try making it myself. Length of the cable is about 1 foot, no errors reported on programming at all, i done 20 in a row and all were successful first time.

I will move the caps a little closer to the supply, I used the atmel as it was one of the 2 that was recommended so i am not going to make unnecessary changes. I'll post a updated schematic tomorrow after i have tweaked and done some verification on it.

[Arnie]

Nice DIY programmer

You might want to use better quality card and cut it a bit straighter or it might not work properly

Good job on the Ram Upgrade, I'll be ordering one of these.

[majsta]

@kipper2k instead of using byteblaster use usb blaster and disable 3.3V pin 6 on JTAG chain. Usb blasters are cheap and fast... Those work of yours is ok but messy

[kipper2k]

Originally Posted by majsta

@kipper2k instead of using byteblaster use usb blaster and disable 3.3V pin 6 on JTAG chain. Usb blasters are cheap and fast... Those work of yours is ok but messy

I don't have the USB Blaster HW, i have a Xilinx Platform cable USB (model DLC9G) so i don't think its compatible with the Altera USB Blaster HW/SW. Once i have the board built it will include a 2 pin Power/Ground header on it for reference voltage and make a nice short (pretty looking) simple cable that will program the chip while in the board but out of the Amiga for easy programming so if people want to play they would be able to make a simple cable for themselves

[mutch]

kipper, that programmer is a work of art, don't change or dismantle it! (maybe a nice clear case...) Absolutely brilliant.

[kipper2k]

Originally Posted by mutch

kipper, that programmer is a work of art, don't change or dismantle it! (maybe a nice clear case...) Absolutely brilliant.

Thanks Mutch,

It'll be on the auction block in a few years, see yas there

[kipper2k]

heres pdf of the (almost) finished board...

http://www.kipper2k.com/amiga/4mbboard/v_0.9.8.pdf

[Zetr0]

@Kipps,

Thats some great work, I have been redesigning the A608 on and off for the past year - I never seem to get the time it needs.

Anyway - this project is awesome,

I can only suggestion one thing to help - and that is to introduce a void so the CPU doesn't over heat.



you could get away with only two thirds that void space - its really only for the CPU to breath.

[kipper2k]

How about strategically placed holes around the traces to allow some air flow, would that suffice ? (I'll make some changes. Thanks


This is why i like to post the progress info, always help on the way

Originally Posted by Zetr0

@Kipps,

Thats some great work, I have been redesigning the A608 on and off for the past year - I never seem to get the time it needs.

Anyway - this project is awesome,

I can only suggestion one thing to help - and that is to introduce a void so the CPU doesn't over heat.



you could get away with only two thirds that void space - its really only for the CPU to breath.

[Zetr0]

@Kips

Something like this?



Interestingly if you can move only three signals you could have you cake and eat it by giving enough space for one of those small chip-set cooler heat sinks.

[kipper2k]

Yup, i will move the traces so people can add on a small square finned heat sink if they want,

Originally Posted by Zetr0

@Kips

Something like this?



Interestingly if you can move only three signals you could have you cake and eat it by giving enough space for one of those small chip-set cooler heat sinks.

the cap on the left can moveoutside the chip area and traces shoild be no problem

[Zetr0]

that will be awesome indeed!

sorry, I couldn't help but have a play with M$ paint - my appologies




I found these when I redesigned the interface module for the A608-

Aluminum Alloy Chipset Heatsinks $3.10 (free PnP)



Size (inches) 0.75in * 0.55in * 0.67in
Size (mm) 19.5mm * 13.9mm * 17mm

So they might be a little big - but I am sure they would cut down easy =D

[kipper2k]

Originally Posted by Zetr0

that will be awesome indeed!

sorry, I couldn't help but have a play with M$ paint - my appologies




I found these when I redesigned the interface module for the A608-

Aluminum Alloy Chipset Heatsinks $3.10 (free PnP)



Size (inches) 0.75in * 0.55in * 0.67in
Size (mm) 19.5mm * 13.9mm * 17mm

So they might be a little big - but I am sure they would cut down easy =D

looks good,

i will size the void to fit common sized heatsinks. A little heatsink is always good. I'll work on it tonight after work. (Damn work interfering with my fun

[Lord Aga]

Woohoo Zetr0 rides again
Together with kipper2k they are an unstoppable force !

[Zetr0]

@Lord Aga

I am humbled, but this little baby is all Kipper2k!

he has done some very clever design work - I love the look of the adapter, and I am sure it will serve the community well!

In fact, I will probably want to buy a good 10 - 15 PCB's =)

[kipper2k]

Thanks for the kind words

here's a pic of the board look now. I rerouted a few traces and added a milling layer to cut out the centre of the 68 pin PLCC.



The exposed portion is about 0.600" x 0.600". may need a little tweaking but that should be close. The large hole on the left of the CPU socket will allow the board to be screwed down and there is a smaller hole above the top left of the 44 pin PLCC that will allow a wire to be used to hold down the right side of the board (more later)