New Amiga 1200 cases availability

[ajk]

I would probably request a replacement due to that warping; I bought a black case and it doesn't look anything like that, the slats are straight. The thinned Gotek section is slightly visible from some angles, but I can't feel it with my fingers. Yours may have come out of the mold too hot or something.

The CAD files aren't going to be useful to an individual. Making a mold to produce these costs tens of thousands.

[sean_sk]

Originally Posted by ajk

The CAD files aren't going to be useful to an individual. Making a mold to produce these costs tens of thousands.

True, yet kipper2k was hot on the heels of Phil wondering when the CAD files would be released. Figured he had something in mind.

Anyway has anyone else gotten a white case with similar issues?

[EzdineG]

Originally Posted by sean_skroht

True, yet kipper2k was hot on the heels of Phil wondering when the CAD files would be released. Figured he had something in mind?

He’d probably like to see them to design expansions around exact dimensions.

[Cloudane]

Originally Posted by ajk

The CAD files aren't going to be useful to an individual.

Maybe in 20 years when we all have giant 3D printers?

[amenophis]

Originally Posted by sean_skroht

It's probably just me being too picky.....but I'm pretty disappointed with what I received.

Mine feels like a cheap plastic model and when you run your hands along the grill at the back, it is badly corrugated. You can see the corrugations in the attached photo. My original A1200 case is super flat along the grill. The Gotek cut-out as a small raised lump in it as well. The lump doesn't look as bad in the photo but is actually a lot worse.

Anyway a mate of mine is not so perturbed by it and is going to buy it off me for the price I paid for it. Hopefully the CAD files get released soon and these cases can be manufactured at a better plant.

Hi Sean,


Very sorry about the issues you had.


You should have requested for your case to be returned/exchanged.
We do have extra spare case in "case" of issues arise.

Sometime cases with defects can still slip through QC. It happens.

Cheers,
Phil

[amenophis]

Originally Posted by sean_skroht

True, yet kipper2k was hot on the heels of Phil wondering when the CAD files would be released. Figured he had something in mind.

Anyway has anyone else gotten a white case with similar issues?

@All and to be clear,


When files are released they'll be only & strictly for non commercial use.

Anyway, to manufacture cases you'd still need to create other (new) molds and have a proper license.

We're still working on the release when we have time.
Files will be available, there is no timetable though.

Cheers
Phil

[nexus]

Originally Posted by demolition

LEGO bricks can be melted with a bit of acetone and turned into a paste. As the acetone evaporates, it will harden again. This is commonly used to mend broken fairings on motorcycles if they have been in a crash for example. A bonus is that you can pick and mix different colors to get the color you need.

Perhaps it can also be used with the Amiga case? Although it does seem a bit excessive if you just want to fix a stripped thread.

yes ABS plastic can turn into what they call a slurry i always have a jar

you can make all kinds of molds this way this was the pre 3d printer days
last mold i did using it was making a new plastic slider piece inside analog slider sticks like on nintendo 3ds etc
i actually used silly putty to make a mold 2 halves then glued and sanded any imperfections afterwards

so anyone can just use a old glass jar toss any ABS plastic scraps etc in and pour molds easy at home

3d printing use acetone vapor to smooth out the print

[sean_sk]

Originally Posted by amenophis

Hi Sean,


Very sorry about the issues you had.


You should have requested for your case to be returned/exchanged.
We do have extra spare case in "case" of issues arise.

Sometime cases with defects can still slip through QC. It happens.

Cheers,
Phil

I've sent an email to AOTL about it, so just waiting for a response from them.

[turrican9]

Originally Posted by sean_skroht

It's probably just me being too picky.....but I'm pretty disappointed with what I received.

Mine feels like a cheap plastic model and when you run your hands along the grill at the back, it is badly corrugated. You can see the corrugations in the attached photo. My original A1200 case is super flat along the grill. The Gotek cut-out as a small raised lump in it as well. The lump doesn't look as bad in the photo but is actually a lot worse.

Anyway a mate of mine is not so perturbed by it and is going to buy it off me for the price I paid for it. Hopefully the CAD files get released soon and these cases can be manufactured at a better plant.

I did a closer inspection of my case now. Mine has the same corrugations along the grill on the left side.

I'm not going to take any action as it is not very visible without looking from a certain angle. But considering the price + shipping and all the time I had to wait to finally get the case I think it should have been the same quality as an original Amiga 1200 case.

[nexus]

Originally Posted by turrican9

I did a closer inspection of my case now. Mine has the same corrugations along the grill on the left side.

I'm not going to take any action as it is not very visible without looking from a certain angle. But considering the price + shipping and all the time I had to wait to finally get the case I think it should have been the same quality as an original Amiga 1200 case.

why i never bought 1 all the pics and reviews showed it wasnt
my big issue is the area where the LCD goes is messed up cause of them incorporating that pop out into the design
so anyone who doesnt use that will see that dark spot and to me that is unacceptable
everyone has that issue and they knew and didnt care and ran it
i would only buy such a case to mod paint etc etc so not to destroy a original

[turrican9]

Originally Posted by nexus

why i never bought 1 all the pics and reviews showed it wasnt
my big issue is the area where the LCD goes is messed up cause of them incorporating that pop out into the design
so anyone who doesnt use that will see that dark spot and to me that is unacceptable
everyone has that issue and they knew and didnt care and ran it
i would only buy such a case to mod paint etc etc so not to destroy a original

My problem was that I bought a "nice and white" A1200 on ebay a couple of years ago. After a few months I noticed it started to yellow quite badly. So I retro brighted it. It went back to badly yellow again in a few months. Did it again, same thing happened. So the seller had retro brighted it before selling it. Worst thing was I discovered after over a year that all the springs for the keycaps had rusted badly. So the seller had probably been lazy and retro brighted the keys without removing them. Peroxide and metal springs don't mix well. Anyway, I bought a nice and white keyboard from a seller that I know don't retrobright stuff.

So I needed a nice and white case. That's why I bought this one. I think it's better that it's white and will not go yellow even if it has a couple of imperfections VS a badly yellowed original case. That yellow colour is so ugly.

Buying original cases are not cheap these days and getting a perfect original case for a good price would be very hard.

[nexus]

my problem with retrobrite is when people dont take the case badges off
it bubbles up the paint
now i need a new A4k badge cause of a seller doing that
also you can help stop yellowing again using a UV protector
i live in florida but i keep all my stuff out of windows etc
have a very yellow A3KT i need to retrobrite

[ajk]

Originally Posted by nexus

also you can help stop yellowing again using a UV protector

There is evidence that at least ordinary UV protected lacquer does not prevent yellowing, but makes it impossible to apply retrobright again. So it's best to tread carefully there.

[nexus]

Originally Posted by ajk

There is evidence that at least ordinary UV protected lacquer does not prevent yellowing, but makes it impossible to apply retrobright again. So it's best to tread carefully there.

wasnt suggesting a lacquer but UV spray protectant like armor all
they make marine stuff car etc etc
few brands i need to try
but till i got this A3KT i never had yellowing issues with any of my old stuff
guess cause i always kept my stuff away from light all these years
i guess it would be a good idea today for those with lots of sun light should maybe tint the windows with a UV blocker if they dont already

[idrougge]

You could try applying it to a single key. Easy to spot the difference in a few years time.

[amenophis]

Originally Posted by nexus

.../...
everyone has that issue and they knew and didnt care and ran it .../...

@Nexus,

Things are not like you say/think they are.

The HxC cutout is a feature.

But you're right, on some cases the cutout is more visible than on others. Mainly more visible on darker colored or black cases and depending to light.

Since you don't own a new case yourself I understand your base of assessments are photos.
You should maybe see with one of your friend who has a case; for you to check this "in real life". Instead of just online photos.

Photos are tricky, and most backers/users said that photos do look worse than the real deal.

You can always check on team's FB albums, where the effect you're describing isn't always apparent, and isn't visible from all cases.
https://www.facebook.com/pg/a1200net/photos/?tab=albums

I'm not denying there isn't any issue. There is on some cases and that comes with the technology involved.
But we do still work at factory level to make this better and better. However it's not as easy as one may think. Plastic injection isn't a simple thing.

About your statement "they knew and didn't care":
Is a bit far fetched and unfair at best.
We do care for all our backers & all Amigans.
And we do everything possible to make things look better.


Thank you for your comment.

Cheers,
Phil

[demolition]

Originally Posted by nexus

but till i got this A3KT i never had yellowing issues with any of my old stuff
guess cause i always kept my stuff away from light all these years
i guess it would be a good idea today for those with lots of sun light should maybe tint the windows with a UV blocker if they dont already

Some people have seen very significant yellowing of their old stuff even though it had never even seen any sun as it had been stored 'safely' inside the original sealed packaging in a dark room/closet. When it was finally unpacked, there was clear yellowing. Yes, UV light might make it worse, but something else could also cause it (maybe heat, oxygen or both? Or maybe some other chemical vapours from the electronics inside?). In any case, coating it with some laquer or UV blocker will probably make it harder to deyellow if you eventually want to.

[nexus]

Originally Posted by demolition

Some people have seen very significant yellowing of their old stuff even though it had never even seen any sun as it had been stored 'safely' inside the original sealed packaging in a dark room/closet. When it was finally unpacked, there was clear yellowing. Yes, UV light might make it worse, but something else could also cause it (maybe heat, oxygen or both? Or maybe some other chemical vapours from the electronics inside?). In any case, coating it with some laquer or UV blocker will probably make it harder to deyellow if you eventually want to.

UV isnt all visible light and can go through many things
lots of proof showing yellowing shadows from light
and yes it is a combo of the above
and again never said use a lacquer they make UV spray protectant like armor all
i live in the most extreme conditions for all this to happen
florida is no joke when it comes to sun and heat UV
many marine stuff here has to fight this on a daily

but just cause it has a UV protector doesnt mean that it blocks ALL UV

anyways photolithography has this issue a lot why they use dark rooms to prevent any UV etc from hitting
and a bunch of other crap just look at how they need to store stuff
eg using thick metal boxes etc

all the new items i seen that had yellowed new in box were boxes that passed light through to some degree
why the insides of sad items arent yellow

anyways i can give you the science on what is happening on the atomic level

[nexus]

Originally Posted by amenophis

@Nexus,

Things are not like you say/think they are.

The HxC cutout is a feature.

But you're right, on some cases the cutout is more visible than on others. Mainly more visible on darker colored or black cases and depending to light.

Since you don't own a new case yourself I understand your base of assessments are photos.
You should maybe see with one of your friend who has a case; for you to check this "in real life". Instead of just online photos.

Photos are tricky, and most backers/users said that photos do look worse than the real deal.

You can always check on team's FB albums, where the effect you're describing isn't always apparent, and isn't visible from all cases.
https://www.facebook.com/pg/a1200net/photos/?tab=albums

I'm not denying there isn't any issue. There is on some cases and that comes with the technology involved.
But we do still work at factory level to make this better and better. However it's not as easy as one may think. Plastic injection isn't a simple thing.

About your statement "they knew and didn't care":
Is a bit far fetched and unfair at best.
We do care for all our backers & all Amigans.
And we do everything possible to make things look better.


Thank you for your comment.

Cheers,
Phil

seen many still shots and high res videos to come to my conclusion
and you can say whatever but you did know and the fact is you still ran the line
anyways every case has that issue and unless you redid molds they will always have it

and when someone profits from something i tend not to believe anything they say as it is a conflict of interest
when you seen the messed up run in no way where you gonna pay to retool make a new mold etc
as that cuts into your profits so us the users take the hit with unacceptable quality
companies do this everyday

[demolition]

Originally Posted by nexus

UV isnt visible light and can go through many things

I didn't know that UV light could pass through wood (closet) and cardboard (original packaging).. Generally, UV passes through fewer materials than visible light so if a location looks void of visible light, chances are there is no UV light present either.



Yes UV light could accelerate yellowing, but if it is not the only culprit of yellowing, then what would be the point in blocking UV light only to make it impossible to reverse any yellowing that might happen irregardless?