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Old 18 May 2017, 15:24   #61
Marchie
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Ok, minor reprieve. I soldered the J102 jumper (despite being assured that it was no different to holding the mouse buttons and setting NTSC at bootup) and got it to boot a couple of times.

But, I hasten to add, only a couple. Still getting a lot of Toaster not responding aand unable to Genlock errors, sometimes followed by a system lock-up. Haven't put a signal through it yet either. To be honest, that's when things went South - I could reliably boot the software at least for a while there, but once I attached a signal it started to go crazy and hasn't been reliable since.

Grelbfarlk I'll try your frequency adjustment over the weekend...
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Old 18 May 2017, 17:20   #62
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It is the same, the difference is that the machine boots straight into 60 Hz when jumpered, so the Toaster will not be confused by an initial 50 Hz state.
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Old 19 May 2017, 01:41   #63
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All I know is the only time the card has ever worked was with the jumper soldered. Could just be dumb luck of course (of which I've had very little with this escapade).

Anyhow, thanks as always to everyone who has offered advice, I wouldn't even be this far along by myself!
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Old 19 May 2017, 14:21   #64
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Ok Wizards,

Switcher software is starting up reliably now. But if I add an input signal the screen starts to jitter and get funky (blocks of pixels get garbled, kind of like a bad digital TV reception).

This happens with the switcher on, and remains when I quit it and go back to WB. If I turn the input signal off, the screen settles. Anyone familiar with this? Is it likely to be a frequency adjustment thing?
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Old 19 May 2017, 16:22   #65
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What kind of input signal?
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Old 20 May 2017, 01:54   #66
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My PAL camcorder running through an NTSC converter, plugged into input 1 (the top input).
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Old 20 May 2017, 02:28   #67
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Right so if you started the Switcher with the camera attached it should sync to that.

There should be an Autohue program in the Toaster directory you can try running that with the camera attached and it should set up a new calibration.

But otherwise the manual frequency adjustment would the the thing I would do. You don't necessarily need the multimeter if you don't have one, but quit the Switcher, the Toaster will still be enabled. Connect the camcorder and slowly rotate the pot until the Program output and RGB stop being scrambled.

And BE CAREFUL! I cooked a Toaster once when my hand slipped and I touched something in the area with a screwdriver tip and smelt the magic smoke. Fortunately back then Newtek repaired it at no cost but my heart damage is likely still not repaired.

And you're definitely in luck if you are getting to the point of the Switcher starting the card is likely ok.
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Old 20 May 2017, 14:53   #68
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Quote:
Originally Posted by grelbfarlk View Post
Right so if you started the Switcher with the camera attached it should sync to that.
No, at the moment I'm starting with nothing attached, I was told (above) that that was the way to go?


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And you're definitely in luck if you are getting to the point of the Switcher starting the card is likely ok.
Phew!

I'll try the rest of your advice and see how I go...
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Old 23 May 2017, 01:42   #69
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Yeah...been a mixed weekend...

Had it booting reliably into switcher and Lightwave, did some renders, moved the machine around, still worked fine.

Plugged a screen into the preview input, a camera into input 2, and it was happy enough, screen was rolling because I hadn't done the frequency adjustment, but it was working as far as I could tell.

I plugged an input into input 1, started switcher, machine crashed and now every time I try to start the switcher, I get garbled screens for a bit, then 'Toaster not resonding'.

I plugged a camera back into input 1, the screen started to jitter, so I adjusted the frequency until the screen settled (didn't bother with the fine adjustment) but this hasn't made any difference to the switcher not starting.

Really getting frustrated with this, could it be my PSU?

Will Switcher fail until I run Autohue?

Last edited by Marchie; 23 May 2017 at 01:57.
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Old 23 May 2017, 01:53   #70
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Quote:
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It is the same, the difference is that the machine boots straight into 60 Hz when jumpered, so the Toaster will not be confused by an initial 50 Hz state.
Just following up on this J102 vs mouse button at boot to switch PAL/NTSC - I'm really not getting the same results.

For example, I ran a PAL program and, predictably, 20% of the picture was missing off the bottom of the screen (as one would expect since my machine is jumpered into NTSC mode). So I reset, booted into PAL display using the double-mouse button menu and ran the program again, and the same program was totally garbled - fields were offset in a double-image, and the picture was mostly off-screen. When I ran this program before (when the machine was jumpered for PAL) it displayed fine, so clearly changing the display at boot-up is not the same as tripping the jumper.

Or am I missing something? (I don't pretend to be knowledgeable on this, happy to be educated!)
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Old 23 May 2017, 23:32   #71
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I think that's a side-effect of having a genlock in your machine. The genlock will decide the clock of your Amiga.
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Old 24 May 2017, 00:11   #72
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Marchie View Post
Just following up on this J102 vs mouse button at boot to switch PAL/NTSC - I'm really not getting the same results.

For example, I ran a PAL program and, predictably, 20% of the picture was missing off the bottom of the screen (as one would expect since my machine is jumpered into NTSC mode). So I reset, booted into PAL display using the double-mouse button menu and ran the program again, and the same program was totally garbled - fields were offset in a double-image, and the picture was mostly off-screen. When I ran this program before (when the machine was jumpered for PAL) it displayed fine, so clearly changing the display at boot-up is not the same as tripping the jumper.

Or am I missing something? (I don't pretend to be knowledgeable on this, happy to be educated!)
Sounds like just the joys of having an NTSC machine to me. I used Degrader back in the day I think now it's called Tude to convince the Amiga that it's PAL, which will hold the setting after reboot.
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Old 24 May 2017, 00:14   #73
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Marchie View Post
Yeah...been a mixed weekend...

Had it booting reliably into switcher and Lightwave, did some renders, moved the machine around, still worked fine.

Plugged a screen into the preview input, a camera into input 2, and it was happy enough, screen was rolling because I hadn't done the frequency adjustment, but it was working as far as I could tell.

I plugged an input into input 1, started switcher, machine crashed and now every time I try to start the switcher, I get garbled screens for a bit, then 'Toaster not resonding'.

I plugged a camera back into input 1, the screen started to jitter, so I adjusted the frequency until the screen settled (didn't bother with the fine adjustment) but this hasn't made any difference to the switcher not starting.

Really getting frustrated with this, could it be my PSU?

Will Switcher fail until I run Autohue?
Input 1 is considered the "Master" input that the Toaster will try to sync all other inputs to. So switching inputs on the live camera is not really surprising that it "freaked" it out. Try plugging your Camera into input 1 and a monitor into Program Out and running Autohue. But I'd really recommend doing the fine adjustment if you can.
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Old 24 May 2017, 03:21   #74
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Marchie have you downloaded the manuals and gone through them? I'm pretty sure you hook up the camera after booting the switcher. If you have a NTSC DVD player laying around it might sync to that good since it's a digital stable source. I'm just brainstorming trying to help you. I'm planning to setup a Amiga Toaster 4000 system again soon myself. Perhaps I can be more help then.

Link to manuals in case you need it.

http://www.discreetfx.com/Manuals.html

Last edited by Pyromania; Yesterday at 05:47. Reason: Link Added
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Old Today, 03:17   #75
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I've sifted through it, the pdf is slow and difficult to negotiate though.

Will keep trying, I've seen videos that saying the VT doesn't like to mix 16-bit and 32-bit memory (which I'm doing presently). Vamp may sort that issue out...
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