A4000 PSU -> Mini-ATX PSU mod

keropi · 18 August 2006, 20:55

After spending lots for a PPC A4000 , the old, weary 145W original PSU seemed like a ticking bomb to me, so I decided to use a modern ATX PSU for my 4000...
First thing to do was to order the following from amigakit.com , an ELBOX ATX-to-A4000 power converter and an ATX Power Switch for the converter.
I wanted to use the original power on/off button the A4000 has, and I thought: Why don't I use the original PSU's case? both their switches are screw compatible, so it was just a matter of opening the old PSU, removing the stuff inside, and screw the new ATX switch. Also the MINI-ATX PSU I got had the screws on the same place as the old PSU, so I just screw it in place... I did not use the whole A4000 PSU case, only the parts needed to support a 80x80 fan and the switch... with the atx psu screwed in place it is just a matter of inserting the old case in place, you will understand it better after looking at the attached pics... and all work nice, and very easy to mod! I only need to think how to cover the space under the MINI-ATX PSU (last pic) maybe I add a small fan blowing air inside...

lopos2000 · 18 August 2006, 21:36

Great mod keropi.
I think I'll do that on my A4000D next. Which Mini-ATX power supply did you use?

keropi · 18 August 2006, 21:55

Thanx!

nothing special, a 300W one I found on a nearby computer shop... it also has a temperature controlled fan, so it is quiet...

patrik · 18 August 2006, 22:33

Don't forget the psu lid, or else the cooling will be terrible (no air moving from entrance at Zorro-backplates through case, cooling all motherboard and Zorro+cpucard, into psu and out back).

Btw, make sure the big fan is blowing air out of the case, it was quite common that in some productions of the A4000, they were turned the wrong way, blowing hot air into the case from the psu, causing the A4000 to overheat.

This way it aquired its reputation as a overheater, which it really isn't as long as the fan is turned the right way and the cooling isnt screwed up by holes in the case on the cpucard side of the case, which would make the air only between hole and psu, not through entire case, leaving most of the computer uncooled.

keropi · 18 August 2006, 22:42

oh, so I need to make it blow out of the case eh? it is a new fan, not the original... I'll do that, thanks for the remark!

also , what u mean by psu lid ?

patrik · 18 August 2006, 22:44

Lid = top part of psu, to make the PSU closed, else it is impossible to get the PSU fan to blow air out of the case and create suction.

keropi · 18 August 2006, 22:51

oh, you mean close it fully.... dunno about that, I was thinking of placing a fan on the empty space under the psu to help air escape...or maybe I just put back the side panel...

patrik · 18 August 2006, 22:54

Closing the PSU and using the 80mm fan will be more effective and quieter than using a couple of small fans in the hole under the mATX psu. Also, with the PSU closed, the A4000 case will get more support, which it needs. It is not very rigid without everything in place, including the harddrive mounted with the brackets between the psu and the Zorro backplate.

Btw, with lid I mean the plate which is bent 90 degree in the middle, which gives the PSU a roof and one wall

, I do not mean the back plate of the psu. The back part is fine open as there needs to be some way for the air to escape. If the hole under the mATX psu is closed shut, all air will have to go through the mATX psu which isnt that optimal.

keropi · 18 August 2006, 22:58

ok then, I'll make a hole to the side panel so the power cables can get out... Thanks patrik!

patrik · 18 August 2006, 23:03

If the cables are long enough, you could use the original cable-hole. Less work and that hole is fitted with the plastic cable-protector as a bonus

.

keropi · 18 August 2006, 23:06

bah, they are not that long... lol
also the hole is a joke, when your father owns a metal works factory... lol

patrik · 18 August 2006, 23:09

Haha, ok

.

keropi · 19 August 2006, 16:39

Finally, the mod done thanx to Patrik's advice... I have cut the upper lid because the mATX psu had the same size as the amiga psu and it did not close good... now it has a seem on the front sice, but I don't really mind to hack more to fix it too...

jmmijo · 19 August 2006, 17:54

Great job there keropi

I also liked the tips from patrik about closing the lid of the PS unit for proper air-flow, it's amazing how when you are doing a mod you forget about the details and the like

keropi · 21 August 2006, 13:08

I have sealed the seem with aluminum tape (used in ventilation)
it is like duct tape, only it is made from aluminum (duh!)

macce2 · 27 November 2006, 21:31

@keropi

Quote :

"First thing to do was to order the following from amigakit.com , an ELBOX ATX-to-A4000 power converter and an ATX Power Switch for the converter."

Is the Elbox ATX Power Switch necessary to get the ATX-to-A4000 power converter to work ..?

Recently, I bought the power converter from Elbox and planned to build my A4000D to tower case. I tried three different ATX power supplies, but none of them seemed to work with the Elbox a4000 power converter. I'm pretty sure I made the connections properly, although there surprisingly, came no any kind of manual/information with the converter package.
However, Should it work, when you put jumper on the power "switch" in the adapter ?

One of the three power supplies I tried with it broke, with a Baang!

keropi · 27 November 2006, 21:59

you need an atx switch for on/off, that is similar to a reset switch, that just makes contact for a moment and then it goes back to non-contact...
maybe u tried a permanent switch, like the one on the 4000D psu or older AT PSU's ???

DON'T ever use a jumper there or an older 2-state AT style switch!!!! NEVER!!!

omg, is your 4000 mobo ok now????

macce2 · 27 November 2006, 22:45

So it needs some kind of pulse to start, rather than permanent circuit..?
I tried with a jumper, but to no avail. However, when one of the psus I tried blew up, there was no jumper.
I'm not sure yet, but I think that my 4000 should be ok.. (?)
I 'll check that thing tomorrow, because I can't say anything for sure about my a4000 funtioning just at the moment..

Do you think that my only option would be to buy tha power switch made by Elbox ?

I tried power switch button that was in my tower case, but I'm not sure if it is of the right type ..
It has some kind of "jumper" type connector connected to two wires..
so I thought it should work when I press the power button, but nothing happened :-(

keropi · 27 November 2006, 22:50

u need a reset like switch to power on! or use a small screwdriver, touch the 2 pins for 0.5secs , it will power if all is OK... all it needs is an instantaneous contact, nothing more... amigakit also has those switches... don't try again the original 4000 power switch or a jumper...

macce2 · 27 November 2006, 23:04

I also tried with the reset button built in my new tower case, but it didn't help. I can't know for sure if the swich it's fully functioning, because the tower case was found, I didn't buy it ! ;-) But it was in good condition overall, I think. Shame that I can't send any photos about it, because I have no digital camera

.
Alas, the tower case I'm writing about is an atx case, I think, but I'm not 100% sure. However, I didn't use the power switch of my original A4000 D case !!

18 August 2006, 20:55	#1
keropi . Join Date: Oct 2004 Location: Ioannina/Greece Posts: 5,040	A4000 PSU -> Mini-ATX PSU mod After spending lots for a PPC A4000 , the old, weary 145W original PSU seemed like a ticking bomb to me, so I decided to use a modern ATX PSU for my 4000... First thing to do was to order the following from amigakit.com , an ELBOX ATX-to-A4000 power converter and an ATX Power Switch for the converter. I wanted to use the original power on/off button the A4000 has, and I thought: Why don't I use the original PSU's case? both their switches are screw compatible, so it was just a matter of opening the old PSU, removing the stuff inside, and screw the new ATX switch. Also the MINI-ATX PSU I got had the screws on the same place as the old PSU, so I just screw it in place... I did not use the whole A4000 PSU case, only the parts needed to support a 80x80 fan and the switch... with the atx psu screwed in place it is just a matter of inserting the old case in place, you will understand it better after looking at the attached pics... and all work nice, and very easy to mod! I only need to think how to cover the space under the MINI-ATX PSU (last pic) maybe I add a small fan blowing air inside... Attached Thumbnails

18 August 2006, 22:33	#4
patrik Registered User Join Date: Jan 2005 Location: Umeå Age: 43 Posts: 922	Don't forget the psu lid, or else the cooling will be terrible (no air moving from entrance at Zorro-backplates through case, cooling all motherboard and Zorro+cpucard, into psu and out back). Btw, make sure the big fan is blowing air out of the case, it was quite common that in some productions of the A4000, they were turned the wrong way, blowing hot air into the case from the psu, causing the A4000 to overheat. This way it aquired its reputation as a overheater, which it really isn't as long as the fan is turned the right way and the cooling isnt screwed up by holes in the case on the cpucard side of the case, which would make the air only between hole and psu, not through entire case, leaving most of the computer uncooled. Last edited by patrik; 18 August 2006 at 22:40.

18 August 2006, 22:54	#8
patrik Registered User Join Date: Jan 2005 Location: Umeå Age: 43 Posts: 922	Closing the PSU and using the 80mm fan will be more effective and quieter than using a couple of small fans in the hole under the mATX psu. Also, with the PSU closed, the A4000 case will get more support, which it needs. It is not very rigid without everything in place, including the harddrive mounted with the brackets between the psu and the Zorro backplate. Btw, with lid I mean the plate which is bent 90 degree in the middle, which gives the PSU a roof and one wall , I do not mean the back plate of the psu. The back part is fine open as there needs to be some way for the air to escape. If the hole under the mATX psu is closed shut, all air will have to go through the mATX psu which isnt that optimal. Last edited by patrik; 18 August 2006 at 22:59.

19 August 2006, 16:39	#13
keropi . Join Date: Oct 2004 Location: Ioannina/Greece Posts: 5,040	Finally, the mod done thanx to Patrik's advice... I have cut the upper lid because the mATX psu had the same size as the amiga psu and it did not close good... now it has a seem on the front sice, but I don't really mind to hack more to fix it too... Attached Thumbnails

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18 August 2006, 21:36	#2
lopos2000 Zone Friend Join Date: Apr 2005 Location: Cider is best In The West Posts: 1,238	Great mod keropi. I think I'll do that on my A4000D next. Which Mini-ATX power supply did you use?

18 August 2006, 21:55	#3
keropi . Join Date: Oct 2004 Location: Ioannina/Greece Posts: 5,040	Thanx! nothing special, a 300W one I found on a nearby computer shop... it also has a temperature controlled fan, so it is quiet...

18 August 2006, 22:42	#5
keropi . Join Date: Oct 2004 Location: Ioannina/Greece Posts: 5,040	oh, so I need to make it blow out of the case eh? it is a new fan, not the original... I'll do that, thanks for the remark! also , what u mean by psu lid ?

18 August 2006, 22:44	#6
patrik Registered User Join Date: Jan 2005 Location: Umeå Age: 43 Posts: 922	Lid = top part of psu, to make the PSU closed, else it is impossible to get the PSU fan to blow air out of the case and create suction.

18 August 2006, 22:51	#7
keropi . Join Date: Oct 2004 Location: Ioannina/Greece Posts: 5,040	oh, you mean close it fully.... dunno about that, I was thinking of placing a fan on the empty space under the psu to help air escape...or maybe I just put back the side panel...

18 August 2006, 22:58	#9
keropi . Join Date: Oct 2004 Location: Ioannina/Greece Posts: 5,040	ok then, I'll make a hole to the side panel so the power cables can get out... Thanks patrik!

18 August 2006, 23:03	#10
patrik Registered User Join Date: Jan 2005 Location: Umeå Age: 43 Posts: 922	If the cables are long enough, you could use the original cable-hole. Less work and that hole is fitted with the plastic cable-protector as a bonus .

18 August 2006, 23:06	#11
keropi . Join Date: Oct 2004 Location: Ioannina/Greece Posts: 5,040	bah, they are not that long... lol also the hole is a joke, when your father owns a metal works factory... lol

18 August 2006, 23:09	#12
patrik Registered User Join Date: Jan 2005 Location: Umeå Age: 43 Posts: 922	Haha, ok .

19 August 2006, 17:54	#14
jmmijo Junior Member Join Date: Jan 2002 Location: PDX Age: 62 Posts: 2,395	Great job there keropi I also liked the tips from patrik about closing the lid of the PS unit for proper air-flow, it's amazing how when you are doing a mod you forget about the details and the like

21 August 2006, 13:08	#15
keropi . Join Date: Oct 2004 Location: Ioannina/Greece Posts: 5,040	I have sealed the seem with aluminum tape (used in ventilation) it is like duct tape, only it is made from aluminum (duh!)

27 November 2006, 21:31	#16
macce2 Retro maniac Join Date: May 2005 Location: Finland Age: 49 Posts: 1,219	@keropi Quote : "First thing to do was to order the following from amigakit.com , an ELBOX ATX-to-A4000 power converter and an ATX Power Switch for the converter." Is the Elbox ATX Power Switch necessary to get the ATX-to-A4000 power converter to work ..? Recently, I bought the power converter from Elbox and planned to build my A4000D to tower case. I tried three different ATX power supplies, but none of them seemed to work with the Elbox a4000 power converter. I'm pretty sure I made the connections properly, although there surprisingly, came no any kind of manual/information with the converter package. However, Should it work, when you put jumper on the power "switch" in the adapter ? One of the three power supplies I tried with it broke, with a Baang!

27 November 2006, 21:59	#17
keropi . Join Date: Oct 2004 Location: Ioannina/Greece Posts: 5,040	you need an atx switch for on/off, that is similar to a reset switch, that just makes contact for a moment and then it goes back to non-contact... maybe u tried a permanent switch, like the one on the 4000D psu or older AT PSU's ??? DON'T ever use a jumper there or an older 2-state AT style switch!!!! NEVER!!! omg, is your 4000 mobo ok now????

27 November 2006, 22:45	#18
macce2 Retro maniac Join Date: May 2005 Location: Finland Age: 49 Posts: 1,219	So it needs some kind of pulse to start, rather than permanent circuit..? I tried with a jumper, but to no avail. However, when one of the psus I tried blew up, there was no jumper. I'm not sure yet, but I think that my 4000 should be ok.. (?) I 'll check that thing tomorrow, because I can't say anything for sure about my a4000 funtioning just at the moment.. Do you think that my only option would be to buy tha power switch made by Elbox ? I tried power switch button that was in my tower case, but I'm not sure if it is of the right type .. It has some kind of "jumper" type connector connected to two wires.. so I thought it should work when I press the power button, but nothing happened :-(

27 November 2006, 22:50	#19
keropi . Join Date: Oct 2004 Location: Ioannina/Greece Posts: 5,040	u need a reset like switch to power on! or use a small screwdriver, touch the 2 pins for 0.5secs , it will power if all is OK... all it needs is an instantaneous contact, nothing more... amigakit also has those switches... don't try again the original 4000 power switch or a jumper...

27 November 2006, 23:04	#20
macce2 Retro maniac Join Date: May 2005 Location: Finland Age: 49 Posts: 1,219	I also tried with the reset button built in my new tower case, but it didn't help. I can't know for sure if the swich it's fully functioning, because the tower case was found, I didn't buy it ! ;-) But it was in good condition overall, I think. Shame that I can't send any photos about it, because I have no digital camera . Alas, the tower case I'm writing about is an atx case, I think, but I'm not 100% sure. However, I didn't use the power switch of my original A4000 D case !!

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