English Amiga Board


Go Back   English Amiga Board > Support > support.Hardware

 
 
Thread Tools
Old 03 September 2013, 00:51   #21
diablothe2nd
Registered User

diablothe2nd's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: Northampton, UK
Age: 36
Posts: 1,232
Quote:
Originally Posted by prowler View Post
Hey, that's not cheating.
It's how you should have been taught to do it if you served an electronics apprenticeship like I did!
i dont have your qualifications, but i'm glad what i taught myself over the years is as it turns out, an official method

Quote:
Originally Posted by prowler View Post
Edit: Either that, or you're just a natural!
naw, i had a year of lessons in year 10 of school, then dropped it for my final year, back in 1998. nothing since though


Quote:
Originally Posted by prowler
I must admit I've only used flux paste for soldering copper pipe unions when I'm fixing up the plumbing with a blowtorch!
my pipe solders aren't anywhere near as pretty as my electronic ones and i have been known to use plumbing flux when i'm short of soldering flux paste.. still works the same, and not had any joints corrode from the "no clean" corrosive stuff you can get from Wickes but i wouldn't recommend it

Last edited by diablothe2nd; 03 September 2013 at 01:24.
diablothe2nd is offline  
Old 03 September 2013, 01:05   #22
Zippy Zapp
Registered User

Zippy Zapp's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2013
Location: CA/USA
Posts: 316
Quote:
Originally Posted by prowler View Post
Good luck!

Be sure to report back and let us know how you get on.
Will do! Probably won't have time to attempt till Wed after work.


Quote:
Originally Posted by diablothe2nd
to reflow, i cheat... after tinning my iron tip, i dip the end of the solder (NOT the iron!!!) in my flux... hold my iron to the contact needing reflowing until it melts, and then just touch the iron with the fresh solder for a split second. = total time for all of that, about 3 seconds. and an even shinier joint than before with no bulging of the solder
Cool, I will do the same.
Zippy Zapp is offline  
Old 03 September 2013, 01:12   #23
roy bates
Registered User
 
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: birmingham
Age: 50
Posts: 2,824
i actually use the paste on the solder joint to be worked on.and not the iron.
i clean the iron every now and then on the stand.
i use the paste becuase it stays where its put,the other type runs all over the job.

this way the heat is spread evenly through the joint more effectively(i find),though peaple do things differently.
theres no trick to using a soldering iron, just use it long enough to melt the solder and no more.
roy bates is offline  
Old 03 September 2013, 01:16   #24
diablothe2nd
Registered User

diablothe2nd's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: Northampton, UK
Age: 36
Posts: 1,232
Quote:
Originally Posted by roy bates View Post
i actually use the paste on the solder joint to be worked on.and not the iron.
i read it's bad practice to dip the iron in the flux directly as it corrodes the tip. but if using flux core solder, that would be inevitable. plus, iron tips are cheap as chips anyway so a blob on the solder wire wouldn't be much different from a blob on the joint
diablothe2nd is offline  
Old 03 September 2013, 01:25   #25
prowler
Global Moderator

prowler's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: Sidcup, England
Posts: 10,300
Using resin-cored solder, I prime the tip of the soldering iron, introduce the iron to the joint and at the exact moment the solder melts I touch the tip of the solder to the joint at the point where it meets the iron tip and the flux immediately coats the joint so that I can withdraw the iron.

When the joint has cooled sufficiently, I clean the flux residue off with isopropyl alcohol applied with a 10mm paint brush with the bristles cut short (8mm or so) for a professional finish.
prowler is offline  
Old 03 September 2013, 01:28   #26
diablothe2nd
Registered User

diablothe2nd's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: Northampton, UK
Age: 36
Posts: 1,232
Quote:
Originally Posted by prowler View Post
When the joint has cooled sufficiently, I clean the flux residue off with isopropyl alcohol applied with a 10mm paint brush with the bristles cut short (8mm or so) for a professional finish.
good point, and i think a crucial one especially when using "no clean" flux based products.

the "No Clean" part doesn't mean that you don't need to clean up after, but that you don't need to clean the contacts prior to soldering as it contains a corrosive to remove any grease and oxides. This corrosive if not removed after soldering, wont do any good

i just use cotton buds (q-tips) with ethanol, same thing i guess

Last edited by diablothe2nd; 03 September 2013 at 01:37.
diablothe2nd is offline  
Old 03 September 2013, 11:20   #27
roy bates
Registered User
 
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: birmingham
Age: 50
Posts: 2,824
i dont really want to get into what ever other peaple do themselves.

heres a habit i got into:

when ive finished soldering i apply solder to the tip and turn it off,when i go to use it again i clean the tip and apply more when/where i need it as im using it.
i dont apply flux to the tip because theres flux in the solder.

the only thing i would suggest is to be carefull what type of iron you use and how long you have it on the joint,for this sort of work you dont have to be uber good at soldering just carefull.
roy bates is offline  
Old 03 September 2013, 15:54   #28
Jope
-
Jope's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: Helsinki / Finland
Age: 38
Posts: 6,922
Quote:
Originally Posted by prowler View Post
When the joint has cooled sufficiently, I clean the flux residue off with isopropyl alcohol applied with a 10mm paint brush with the bristles cut short (8mm or so) for a professional finish.
This is always a good idea. No-clean flux should also be cleaned off, even though the name suggests you wouldn't need to. :-)
Jope is offline  
Old 04 September 2013, 13:33   #29
GadgetUK
Registered User
 
Join Date: Mar 2013
Location: Manchester
Posts: 116
Quote:
Originally Posted by prowler View Post
Using resin-cored solder, I prime the tip of the soldering iron, introduce the iron to the joint and at the exact moment the solder melts I touch the tip of the solder to the joint at the point where it meets the iron tip and the flux immediately coats the joint so that I can withdraw the iron.

When the joint has cooled sufficiently, I clean the flux residue off with isopropyl alcohol applied with a 10mm paint brush with the bristles cut short (8mm or so) for a professional finish.
That's exactly what I do!
GadgetUK is offline  
Old 06 September 2013, 02:19   #30
Zippy Zapp
Registered User

Zippy Zapp's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2013
Location: CA/USA
Posts: 316
Success!

Thanks for all the advice. Took it apart and noticed that there was already some flux on the surface. I cleaned it up a bit but nothing seemed bad on the surface. I heated the one solder point on each connector and then from the other side pushed the main center connection down so that it protruded a bit out of the bottom. put a bit of solder there, a tiny amount.

Hooked it all back up and the short is gone. Works good.

The jack must have been plugged and unplugged a lot because the RCA cables fit very loose without modification to the cable.

Now to tackle the keyboard issue.


Thanks All!
Zippy Zapp is offline  
Old 06 September 2013, 02:24   #31
prowler
Global Moderator

prowler's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: Sidcup, England
Posts: 10,300
Well done! And thanks for the feedback.
prowler is offline  
Old 06 September 2013, 09:46   #32
diablothe2nd
Registered User

diablothe2nd's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: Northampton, UK
Age: 36
Posts: 1,232
excellent stuff! congrats
diablothe2nd is offline  
Old 06 September 2013, 12:48   #33
Loedown
Precious & fragile things

 
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Victoria, Australia
Posts: 1,945
One of the easiest ways to retension RCA plugs is to *very* mildly distort the shape of the 4 outer edges of the plug with a pair of bullnose pliers, if it's the inner of the socket that needs retensioning then use a jeweller's screwdriver to bend the tongue a little.
Loedown is offline  
 


Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Sound issues? thermalthong support.Hardware 18 02 November 2012 19:14
Sound Issues after upgrade - WinUAE IK+1245 New to Emulation or Amiga scene 1 31 August 2011 11:53
Sound speed issues. Hemppo support.Other 2 28 March 2010 16:04
A1200 sound issues arnljot support.Hardware 5 06 February 2008 14:16
Even more sound timing issues... andreas support.WinUAE 11 30 November 2005 12:23

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off

Forum Jump


All times are GMT +2. The time now is 21:53.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.11
Copyright ©2000 - 2018, vBulletin Solutions Inc.
Page generated in 0.10655 seconds with 13 queries