19 April 2014, 22:58 | #101 |
We need more scans!
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sorry, got sidetracked here (I started playing Tropico... and then the hours disappeared)
I've tried the C= adapter again as mentioned earlier, both in PAL and dblPAL and that doesn't work.. getting no signal or sometimes I get either a green or a gray screen on the GBS. I take it that the C= adapter gives RGBHV out (I haven't checked for that though) hope that's useful for you. |
19 April 2014, 23:07 | #102 |
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The C= made one gives RGBHV out, yes. And as I suspected, it does not conform to what the GBS boards want to display an image, and we have to resort to composite sync.
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19 April 2014, 23:32 | #103 | |
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Quote:
Only anomaly is bar at the bottom. |
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20 April 2014, 03:39 | #104 |
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Very interesting. And I see you have the same monitor as I do, though I have not hooked the amiga up to that one yet. I will test that. Just to exclude that part of the equation..
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20 April 2014, 10:52 | #105 |
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This Dell (U2311H) has one other interesting feature. You can connect Amiga directly to it, it accepts 15kHz .
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20 April 2014, 15:21 | #106 |
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Ah, its the U2311H, mistook the model. I have the S2740L (it does not accept 15khz).
Found that part of the problem is the caps on the GBS 8220, they are cheap chinese caps, specifically those for the voltage regulator, are not up to printed specs. Need to get some 470uF good ones and recap the board. |
20 April 2014, 17:37 | #107 |
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Are you talking about the two caps near the power connections?:
It would be really great to finally get the white specks gone. I did turn down one of the RGB pots and got some to go, but I could still see them elsewhere. I have mounted my GBS onto some board, then attached the board to the VESA holes on the back of my monitor. This way it is all hidden and you can't see a circuit board with loads of wires going in/out !!! |
21 April 2014, 08:06 | #108 |
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Those are indeed the caps I am talking about. And nice idea about the mounting. You can easily see if the caps you have are by the manufacturer "Cheng". I have run across these caps quite a bit in the last three years, and they inevitably fail, sometimes after just a short time, and sometimes after a long time. Since the GBS 8220 are very sensitive to bad voltage, having bad filter caps is not ideal.
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21 April 2014, 09:54 | #109 |
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Jackpot. Replaced 470 uFs and the 22 uF beside them, reduced noise by another 5%. I need to get more caps to recap the whole board. But I am now certain that the white dot issue stems from bad caps on the boards. It went from full screen snowing to a few occasional white dots.
The buffer circuit I have made should be used so that the GBS 8220 do not risk causing the amiga to crash or not boot. But beyond that, it is only recapping the boards that help. Get some quality caps and remove the bad cheng caps (check what brand your caps are first). |
21 April 2014, 09:57 | #110 |
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You need;
2 x 470 uF Electrolyte caps 16V 3 x 22 uF Electrolyte caps 16V 5 x 100 uF Electrolyte caps 16V Especially around the 22uF ones, beware that the holes are very tight together, so make sure your soldering is good, with clean smooth solder joints. Anything less can result in a short. Last edited by Johan1973; 21 April 2014 at 10:28. |
21 April 2014, 16:43 | #111 |
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I am looking at my GBS (V3.0) now. I have LSHC, Chang & JACKCON caps.
i.e. cheap cheap quality ones I guess. I have decent make replacements here, so hopefully will have a go at replacing them later. I noticed one difference between GBS's. Mine has a 'hynix' chip (memory?) in the middle. I have seen V4.0 pictures showing a 'samsung' chip. |
21 April 2014, 19:08 | #112 |
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Right, I have recapped the board.
Been running State of the Art & then Jesus on E's as there is lots of black backgrounds, and it seems good. I have not been watching all the time as doing other things, but when I have looked speckles are not there! As I am typing this I am trying other games and again it all seems good. Walker is a good game to test as there are lots of blacks. I have not tried fiddling with the RGB pots yet, as that seemed to do something before (but now my colours look good, so no need to fiddle!). Thanks for the 'heads up' on the recap. Fingers crossed speckles are a thing of the past now. |
21 April 2014, 19:16 | #113 |
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UPDATE - on the opening sequence of 'Wing Commander CD32' there are some occasional speckles, but nothing to really worry about.
I again just loaded up 'Jesus on E's' and there are no speckles in the black areas. |
25 April 2014, 07:47 | #114 |
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Hi,
What are the values of the capacitors around IC5? This is a AME1117 Low dropout regulator that needs some care in it's design, notably: The Equivalent Series Resistance (ESR) of the output capacitor must be less than 0.5 ohms. The suggested value is 10uF tantalum or 50uF electrolytic. I don't own a GBS-8200, have studied some pictures of the PCB on the internet. I can see a ceramic capacitor connected to the tab of IC5, value unknown. This could cause issues as the very low ESR of a ceramic can make LDO regulators unstable. Food for thought. Ian |
25 April 2014, 11:00 | #115 |
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They are 470 uF, 22 uF and 100 uF
One 470uF is in series with IC 5 |
13 June 2014, 12:43 | #116 |
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I got the Scart to HDMI adapter today. Running tests on it now.
Initial impressions; Dont bother with GBS 8220. Good: Easy to setup. Picture quality is pretty good. Sharp image for an upscaled picture. Bad: No aspect ratio control. So make sure your display can do that part, or your image will be scaled to 16:9 aspect ratio, no matter what. With 50 Hz input, and the converter set to 50Hz, you get some interlace flickering. If you mismatch it to run 50hz input at 60hz output, that disappears. Dont know yet if that will cause any other artifacts. |
26 November 2014, 14:26 | #117 |
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I have two VGA monitors at home, no HDMI.
I seriously thought about GBS-8220, as solution. Can someone reccomend me best and affordable converter which can handle amiga screenmodes, without having to sell kidney for it? For workbench and gaming. |
26 November 2014, 14:37 | #118 |
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How about just getting a small flat panel TV with a SCART connector from the second hand market? Cheap and cheerful.
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26 November 2014, 15:13 | #119 |
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Lol @ "Upgrade Interface - Don't Demolition"
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26 November 2014, 18:11 | #120 |
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If you can live with the faults, and change the caps, and have an extremely stable power source for the GBA8220, it can be a cheap alternative. But in my opinion it is money better spent on buying a small tv with SCART connection.
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