20 June 2016, 10:06 | #61 |
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There's no point in getting started on your A2000 drive if you can't get hold of an A3000 eject button that matches.
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20 June 2016, 15:11 | #62 | |
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I thought there was someone who sold them. Someone linked to a site a few posts back. |
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20 June 2016, 17:25 | #63 |
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Have you checked if you can get hold of the button?
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20 June 2016, 17:39 | #64 |
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No I haven't. The second drive is a 'nice to have' but isn't really important in the long run. I'm not going to be running many disk based games on the 3000 anyway.
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20 June 2016, 17:49 | #65 |
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The colour might not match, but you could always get a 3d printed eject button.
http://www.shapeways.com/product/Z3R...ionId=40830603 |
20 June 2016, 18:17 | #66 | |
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20 June 2016, 19:16 | #67 |
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20 June 2016, 20:38 | #68 |
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I think I'll wait and see if it becomes a problem. One disk drive should be plenty for now. Maybe I can find a real one down the line.
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21 June 2016, 02:23 | #69 |
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One more question regarding the battery. If I go the original route and replace the battery with another barrel battery (not sure I trust the disc battery now), does it matter if it's NiMH or NiCd? Also, where can you find one with three legs on it? All the ones I've seen have only two.
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21 June 2016, 09:30 | #70 |
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NiMH works fine. All the ones I've bought have three legs, though you only need two.
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21 June 2016, 14:31 | #71 | |
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I have a spare two legged 3.5V NiCd battery from when I was fixing up a clock card for a PC. Could I use that or should I stay away from NiCd due to the leaking risk? |
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21 June 2016, 14:38 | #72 |
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I'd avoid NiCd as it is certain to leak sooner or later. NiMH batteries rarely leak unless they're abused. The third leg is generally for stability, yes, though two legs should be fine. It's also possible to replace the battery with a non-rechargeable lithium cell by fitting a diode to protect it from charging current. Small adaptors with a footprint matching the original battery can be bought from the usual sources.
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21 June 2016, 15:05 | #73 | |
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Yes. Both legs are connected to the same pole.
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21 June 2016, 15:06 | #74 |
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If you want to do it yourself, it might be prettier to replace the charging resistor on the motherboard with a diode, since it may be tricky to mount a diode cleanly to the coin cell holder.
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21 June 2016, 15:17 | #75 |
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The NiCd should be good, it was new when I got it a few months ago (or so the seller said), but I might as well go with the NiMH.
So the general consensus is that those coin batteries don't provide enough voltage then? What about the two AA battery solution that I posted earlier? EDIT: Ah he's a nice little write up. I honestly think I'm just going to go with the NiMH battery and replace it in 6-8 years: http://members.iinet.net.au/~davem2/overclock/batt.html Last edited by Tempest 2084; 21 June 2016 at 15:28. |
21 June 2016, 16:13 | #76 | |
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21 June 2016, 16:47 | #77 |
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I would never replace a timebomb with a new timebomb!
Personally I prefer the 2032 coin-cell, it is not without reason it is used on almost every motherboard sold today. As the text you linked to explains the trick is to use a germanium diode, that will enable the coin-cell to give enough voltage to work for years. |
21 June 2016, 16:48 | #78 |
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They exist on Apple systems (at least on the IIGS and some Macs). Why they don't on the Amiga is anyone's guess.
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21 June 2016, 17:15 | #79 |
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Three pins taken from a low-profile DIL socket would do the job nicely I would guess. A socket won't protect from leakage though...
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21 June 2016, 17:26 | #80 |
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I thought the NiMH wouldn't leak though. At least not like the NiCd.
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