Expansion board for the CD32

[Stedy]

Originally Posted by plasmab

@stedy I had a look at quick tech for board manufacturing and their board specs are terrible. They can't do 6mil all round.


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That hasn't been an issue for me. I use traces down to 8 mil/thou and have 16 thou (2x) spacing to reduce crosstalk, also makes the PCBs cheaper. Even the 5/6 mil controlled impedance stuff I do at work has 2x track width spacing. Were you concerned by the trace to copper pour spec?

[Jope]

Originally Posted by kipper2k

for those in search of power supplies etc, i made up a cable and bought a power supply off ebay. Some people say they are not good, i have had mine for over a year with no problems...

Those things work, but are rather noisy sometimes.. I made a bunch for 1541-IIs and with that thing connected, the interference came down the serial cable and made the picture vibrate on the 1084's screen. :-)

[plasmab]

Originally Posted by Stedy

That hasn't been an issue for me. I use traces down to 8 mil/thou and have 16 thou (2x) spacing to reduce crosstalk, also makes the PCBs cheaper. Even the 5/6 mil controlled impedance stuff I do at work has 2x track width spacing. Were you concerned by the trace to copper pour spec?

I'm 6-6-6 mil. Most board houses these days will do 4-4-4 for BGA work. My latest boards all run their data busses with 6mil spacing and 7 mil track widths. Usually with a ground plane underneath. But in any case I can't get them to manufacture the TF328 as it's beyond what they claim to be able to do.

Heck I can etch 8 mil at home with my setup.


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[kipper2k]

Originally Posted by plasmab

I'm 6-6-6 mil. Most board houses these days will do 4-4-4 for BGA work. My latest boards all run their data busses with 6mil spacing and 7 mil track widths. Usually with a ground plane underneath. But in any case I can't get them to manufacture the TF328 as it's beyond what they claim to be able to do.

Heck I can etch 8 mil at home with my setup.


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try sitopway.com and pcbway.com and check their specs.

@jope, i wonder if wrapping the wires in tin foil and using heatshrink will clean it up a bit ?

[alenppc]

So yesterday I received the PCBs for the 328, yay! DHL shipping rocks except for the fact that they charged me $20 in customs fees, of which $15 were their own fees... very annoying.

I built and programmed one board up, however later I realized that the riser I got from Kipper many years ago has a broken pin (never had a way to use it until now, so I never noticed before), so the card won't work in it. Dammit. To make things worse, my heat gun died to so I can't replace the connector either.

[kipper2k]

Originally Posted by alenppc

So yesterday I received the PCBs for the 328, yay! DHL shipping rocks except for the fact that they charged me $20 in customs fees, of which $15 were their own fees... very annoying.

I built and programmed one board up, however later I realized that the riser I got from Kipper many years ago has a broken pin (never had a way to use it until now, so I never noticed before), so the card won't work in it. Dammit. To make things worse, my heat gun died to so I can't replace the connector either.

can you run a jumper ?

also check to make sure the edge connector has a 30 degree bevel on it, if they didnt put it on it will break the pins when inserting

[alenppc]

Originally Posted by kipper2k

can you run a jumper ?

also check to make sure the edge connector has a 30 degree bevel on it, if they didnt put it on it will break the pins when inserting

Damn. So I guess these boards are useless now?

[kipper2k]

The first batch i received there was no bevel on and it pushed 2 pins back into the connector, all is not lost, you can grind/file it on yourself

[kipper2k]

looking at the bad pin, it appears to be pin 112, that doesn't have an active connection to it so the connector should still be good, and the one below it is also not active. look at the TF328 and see if there are any traces coming from those pins and i am pretty sure they are not used

[alenppc]

What about the bottom one? They are both bent. Also, pls check your email

[kipper2k]

Originally Posted by alenppc

What about the bottom one? They are both bent.

see my above post

[alenppc]

OK, so it might not be booting for another reason then. Gotta check later today.

[kipper2k]

here is a pic of what it should look like...



it will prevent pins from being pushed back inside the connector

[alenppc]

Yeah, I simply didn't think of checking that option when I ordered. I feel so silly now that I ended spending all this cash and even paying customs. I can send you a few boards to experiment with if you like.

[supaduper]

My second TF328 now built and luckily working straight off the bat so a 24 loop test..and it will then be going to its new home in France...JOTD

[kipper2k]

nice! would be nice to get whdload games working with full iso images etc

[alenppc]

@kipper2k, you're right, I checked the schematics, it seems that the bent pins are not actually connected. Hmmm. I wonder why it didn't boot then. Ok, more testing needed.

Oh and by the way, I ran out of my water soluble flux and try as I may, I can't find it anywhere anymore. So I ended up buying a resin based flux. It's insanely sticky to work with. Like pouring maple syrup on the board. It even kinda smells the same.

[kipper2k]

Originally Posted by alenppc

@kipper2k, you're right, I checked the schematics, it seems that the bent pins are not actually connected. Hmmm. I wonder why it didn't boot then. Ok, more testing needed.

Silly question, did you put the jumper on the clock jumper pad ?

[alenppc]

I did... But it was really late last night so I probably messed something up. I am gonna try again today.

[plasmab]

Originally Posted by kipper2k

here is a pic of what it should look like...



it will prevent pins from being pushed back inside the connector

How do you spec that in eagle? That seems like a 3D option?


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