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Old 30 April 2018, 16:39   #41
Akira
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Retrofan View Post
From time to time I've seen that the image on screen gets clearer, lighter (not for better). I think that it can be the crystal or the hot in the VIC.
That has nothing to do with the crystal, probably not either the VIC (you'll get an image or not). I don't know where you got that idea but don't be changing random things around if you don't really know what's going on.

It could even be your display or your cable.
Some people put a resistor between the luma line and the output, if you have this modification it could be the problem. SOme cables have it inside.
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Old 30 April 2018, 19:31   #42
Retrofan
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No, the cable is ok. I'm not sure if it has that resistor though. It's the one from Retro Computer Shack.
It hasn't it for what I've seen in a Youtube video. I didn't see it there.
[ Show youtube player ]

I have another cable with s-video output that has it and is the one that I use with the PC monitor with a VGA adapter and also works great. Well, to tell the truth I first bought a s-video cable and it didn't get any signal with the VGA adapter and only after I bought that s-video cable with the resistor is when I got it working.

It won't hurt changing the crystal or whatever that is 35 years old, and also remember that this C=64 was taken as my candidate for new/funny things. I know that Ray Carlen for example isn't an enthusiast of changing the caps in the C64 mobo even. Edit: Nope, I think that I won't change the crystal.

I'll also change the voltage rectifiers and I'll use modern DC-DC ones. I already changed the 5V one with an original one and that made a big difference (it had to be very bad), and I haven't changed the 12V one yet.
As Jan Beta commented here [ Show youtube player ],
the original rectifiers work right, but they get tooo hot and I've also seen videos showing with thermal cameras the high temperatures they get, and after ... 35 years they won't be "as new".

Well, in fact talking about high temperatures I also like a lot this video from GadgetUK [ Show youtube player ]
and that's why I've also added a fan. I'm actually using one that gives a decent airflow but I'll also try another (a Foxconn one) that I've ordered that I know that runs faster for what I've tried (I've got a larger one from that brand). I also know/think that their behavior will also change once I change the 12V rectifier as the 12V fan is actually only getting 10,15V.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Akira View Post
...probably not either the VIC (you'll get an image or not).
Not sure about the VIC. Now runs cooler (I'm using now larger heat sinks, and the fan is beside). And also I think that the problem has gone, I've got to try it more this afternoon. The first VIC my C= had was showing a pixel wrong so I changed it at the beginning, and this looks right.

I'll surely make a video tonight.

Edit: New video but that's showing the kernal switcher and a couple of things. The problem I've commented doesn't happen in the video.

LOL... excuse because at first I press Return instead of Restore. It's difficult to be recording and moving from a place to another and making things.

And also excuse me because this video looks very ugly. I switch the light off and then you don't see almost nothing, etc. I know that youtubers like to make a half hour video that takes them three days to edit, but I just record what I want to show with my shitty mobile and the video takes for me the time it takes to record it. I only show great things (MHO) but it will depend on you to see them in such crappy videos.

[ Show youtube player ]

Please don't ask me where did I find that so tiny (same size of the reset one) on-off switch. I've searched everywhere and it doesn't exist, so I've made my own one using a larger one and then I just changed the buttton.

Edit: And just to comment that at first I decided to use my worst C64 to make these changes and then I started this thread. But as I've commented I've repaired my "left for parts mobo", so it will also receive tons of mods as it has to grow from 0 (just that despised board). I will take a different approach for it though as I don't want to make any hole in the case that I've had to buy for it. I will comment the changes about this new project also in this same thread I think. My actual mod is the "Red C=64" and the incoming one will be the Black one.

And also, when I started, just thinking in painting it and few more, I didn't have an idea about the huge amount of mods that are available to try for the C64 :-)

Edit: I will use two fans (I think). I don't like at all how hot the VIC gets. I'll also only change the 5V regulator with a DC-DC one and the 12V one with a linear one.

Last edited by Retrofan; 23 May 2018 at 02:28.
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Old 12 May 2018, 03:21   #43
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So, this is what can happen (tonight) if you have few light and you hold your soldering iron from where you shouldn't...

But well, I've changed both voltage regulators. A linear one for the 12V and a DC-DC 5V one. I've decided to keep the aluminium heatsink in the 5V line and I've sticked it there with silicone paste. The C= is now much better than I am






Last edited by Retrofan; 19 May 2018 at 18:10.
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Old 19 May 2018, 18:13   #44
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So I've received a FM radio kit from Protovision and also a nice black cartridge case by icomp.de

... And I've mixed both







Edit:
Now I've made a nice cartridge label. The guys at Protovision were so kind to provide me with a pdf image that I've had to modify and search for the fonts and so to get the label I want with CorelDraw:



Plans? Well... to try it (yep), print and stick the label and then to add an on-off switch and maybe a rectangular led in the front, but first I want to finish making mods to the board and I've got one pending: adding a fan to the VIC chip. I've seen how hot it gets and yesterday I saw someone measuring that and it gets too hot for me.

So I'll wait to receive my Foxconn fan and I'll see if it can get a cooler VIC then. I've got another solution in mind if I'm not happy with that (noise and so).

Last edited by Retrofan; 23 May 2018 at 03:40.
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Old 23 May 2018, 00:53   #45
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I've thought in changing the label to include the place where I'll install a led.
I'm not sure if putting it in the middle or upwards. I'm still drawing it, so:



Edit: In the middle I guess
Edit 2: Few Commodorians here it seems...

Last edited by Retrofan; 23 May 2018 at 02:21.
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Old 23 May 2018, 03:18   #46
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I've thought in changing the label to include the place where I'll install a led.
I'm not sure if putting it in the middle or upwards. I'm still drawing it, so:



Edit: In the middle I guess
Edit 2: Few Commodorians here it seems...
Ooh I like those yellow ones
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Old 23 May 2018, 03:42   #47
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Thanks . RR means "ReboRn" to me . Thanks for making them, Retro Recipes

Edit 1: I've received some fans and I'm thinking in using these. The Foxfon one that I ordered was too high, but this one on the VIC is perfect just for being able to close the C=. It combines a nice aluminum heatsink with a silent -not so fast- fan...



I think that it will make the VIC to run cooler, and that's what I want. I'll check the noise they make of course.

I've sanded with fine sandpaper the covers of the RF modulator and the cartridge port cover. Then I've applied some Simoniz carnauba wax on them, just the good known way for cars. I have the idea that Commodore didn't use it when they made these plates .



It's difficult to make a photo. For real, when you move from a side to another you see them shining all around, but if you just take a photo some side seems to be darker. I'll order a fibre glass pencil and I will use it in any case.



Edit 2:
1) Led in place. Yep... "pixel perfect" like always :



BTW these 3D printed cartridge cases by icomp are very high quality ones .

2) And stickers on. Yep, I've finally left a black border around the led:


Last edited by Retrofan; 28 May 2018 at 02:57.
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Old 26 May 2018, 21:35   #48
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Sorry, but "Edit 3" deserves a new post to me

The C= is totally silent with both fans (or that seems to me in my a bit noisy cave with an aquarium). About the FM radio I've tried it and it doesn't work. I'm sorry to say that the board I bought has a board with a 5802E chip while what I've read is that it needs a 5807 one.

https://ibb.co/cdWFO8 . Forget about the fail in the config: I was trying some other, but that doesn't matter and as you can see it uses the default one to try to use the chip, and it's clear that the problem is with the chip id. It has to be clear enough when the program tells "Init RDA5807 FM Radio" ... and the card doesn't have that chip but another instead...
.
.
.
So I've orderded a couple of those small boards for around 1€ each that I'll have to solder there instead.

BTW I was wondering if you know of any cheap small fractal antenna that I could use internally instead of that wire that I'll be using now.

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Old 26 May 2018, 21:38   #49
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Those metal parts look great!
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Old 26 May 2018, 21:47   #50
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Yep, fine sandpaper seems to get the original look (well, it's really much better), better than painting it I'm thinking.

Edit: I'll be changing caps and maybe more things in my other project, my "new" Black&White C=64/16 so maybe in a near future I'll edit the thread to add some pics about it here. The thing is that I'm still awaiting for some parts and I'll be ordering some more soon.

Edit 2: Today I've added an on-off button to the FM Radio cartridge that will be used by the led too. It's fixed with thermal glue to the bottom side of the cartridge cover. I leave pending to connect the led with a resistor, just because the radio isn't working yet:



It keeps complaining about the chip, so maybe I burnt it just touching it after so much filing and so.

I'm also thinking in replacing the wire that I'm using as antenna with a female connector to connect there the antenna I've got for a PCMCIA Wifi card. I don't have an idea if that will work or what, but I think so.
In any case I've got to receive my 5807 board, solder it there and try it first.

Edit 3: No idea about what happens to my FM radio kit from Protovision. The 5802E chip is supported from time ago, so it should work. Maybe I touched mine ungrounded or something. In any case, as commented, I've ordered a 5807M for 1€, so I'll solder that instead and tell. Today I tried their floppy disk (great that they include it) with my 1541 floppy drive and it complained the same. It uses an old version of the software that should work too, but:



Edit 4: Today I've changed all of the caps of my B/W C=64 but the ones of the RF modulator. I've also renewed the 12V voltage regulator and I've just ordered a DC-DC angled one to change the 5V one like I made in my Red C=64.

Edit 5 and more: I've now sanded, then polished and then waxed with carnauba wax the cartridge metal cover of my B&W C=64 and then I've glued a label made with an image from some retro channel that I found googling .
I believe that this is the shiniest C64 cartridge port cover Ever:





About my B&W C64/16, it is my revived from dead (some organs were taked apart for donations from him years ago even) C=64 board now inside a new "body". He'll receive a black C=16 one and I'll be trying to insert some new arms and legs like a rescued C=64C white keyboard and some internal organs like a LumaTolb. I think that I'll use some flux here and there as anesthesia.

These are the C=64 labels that I received a couple of days ago in a huge box just to remind/tell him what his real name is in the case that he's got any doubt after waking up with this new black and white body.



I also think that now he will like being able to talk in stereo, because that's the plan. A bit more of surgery will be necessary of course...

Edit: Update: I've been buying some new hardware solutions that I will be showing and that I'll use. One is needed to develope my project about my Black C=64 (mod never seen/tried) and others will be used by whatever C64 I've got.

Edit: I tried to fix the not working FM radio board and solder a 5807M chip instead, but maybe I was too impatient and then I screwed the board. You know, shit happens and I'm not perfect. But well, I already ordered time ago a newer version of the board that I haven't seen used and I'll try it. In any case these boards are cheap.

Edit: Actually I have very few spare time as I've got three exams next week in another island (Tenerife). ... This is a pic of some things that I've received and that I've got pending: EasyFlash 3, SuperPla and SD2IEC. Some more are on the way.


Last edited by Retrofan; 16 June 2018 at 01:24.
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