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Old 01 October 2017, 17:11   #61
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Originally Posted by Sinphaltimus View Post
OK, so yeas, i did get the Blue screen and I resat all my custom chips and it went away. Now the Blue Screen is back. Reseating the chips is not helping.

Can any of you suggest which chip is most likely the one I should focus on? I have no way of testing chips but if I have to buy sockets I will as long as I know which chip i need to be concerned with. I( don't think any went bad, I do think the sockets are old.
Have you tried running with the original CPU? The best way to isolate a problem is to trace back by removing any add-ons and running everything vanilla then go from there. Since the Vampire is more than just a CPU, there could be something going wrong there.
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Old 01 October 2017, 17:30   #62
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-8V on the -12V line won't stop an Amiga from working. What are the +5V and +12V lines showing? Perhaps there's a regulation issue? See if plugging in a dummy load helps - maybe a couple of old hard drives or something.
!!CAUTION!! Don't run that Amiga for long with -8v you could endanger the op-amps . < Either way you would notice audio distortion.
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Old 01 October 2017, 23:47   #63
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I haven't tried much else, I eliminated the ATX PSU and went back to the Amiga PSU. It tried to boot but said there was no disk in DH0: So I removed the CFCard and tried to boot it in winuae, got the same msg in winuae, so I reimaged the CFCard (from backup) and now I'm back to Blue Screen.

I'm going afk for a couple of weeks - schedule is super busy - When I return to this project i will strip the Amiga down to the original config and see how it does.

It feels like one step forward two steps back - time constraints and all.
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Old 08 October 2017, 19:58   #64
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OK, So I can confirm the Amiga is fully operational when using the original Amiga PSU and original internal floppy drive. I left everything else connected (USB Keyboard adaptor, USB mouse adaptor, Vampire Board booting from IDE CF Card to SD adaptor).

I shutdown and removed the internal DF0: and connected a GoTek, everything booted fine again but the GoTek wasn't working properly and while troubleshooting that I killed the GoTek (see different thread under HW support). That incident pretty much took the wind out of my sails for now. I'll have to replace the GoTek when in about a week and a half. So project on hold again. I've got a busy week and a half coming up so decided to just put it to rest until I can dedicate a few days of getting GoTek replaced, testing external floppy drive, connecting HDMI splitter, mounting it all and completing this project. I decided I'm going to boot up the Amiga and test it after every step as I go while adding one more component at a time to see if it starts failing again.

After it's all up and running with everything connected, I will replace the current ATX PSU with one known working with proper voltages. for now, I'll rebuild it with the original PSU to test as I go. Last step will be the ATX PSU to ensure it's the last step on a perfectly working system.
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Old 09 October 2017, 13:14   #65
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I still think there could simply be a regulation issue with the ATX PSU. You need to draw a certain minimum power from a modern PSU to make it produce accurate output voltages. High end PSUs will shut themselves down in cases where it can't regulate, but lower end supplies just output whatever they come up with, sometimes dangerously out of specification. A modern PSU has the +12V line as its primary, and probably needs around 10W of load there to keep things stable. An A500 barely uses 10W in total, and most of that is on the 5V line, so nowhere near enough for many ATX PSUs. Changing the supply might or might not work - that's entirely down to chance unless you can find a PSU that has very low minimum draw requirements, a spec that is rarely advertised.

Adding a dummy load might be enough to get your existing PSU working properly. A few old hard drives, or even a 12V car light bulb would be enough to test the theory.
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Old 09 October 2017, 15:54   #66
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I still think there could simply be a regulation issue with the ATX PSU. You need to draw a certain minimum power from a modern PSU to make it produce accurate output voltages. High end PSUs will shut themselves down in cases where it can't regulate, but lower end supplies just output whatever they come up with, sometimes dangerously out of specification. A modern PSU has the +12V line as its primary, and probably needs around 10W of load there to keep things stable. An A500 barely uses 10W in total, and most of that is on the 5V line, so nowhere near enough for many ATX PSUs. Changing the supply might or might not work - that's entirely down to chance unless you can find a PSU that has very low minimum draw requirements, a spec that is rarely advertised.

Adding a dummy load might be enough to get your existing PSU working properly. A few old hard drives, or even a 12V car light bulb would be enough to test the theory.
Understood. I was looking into this a few weeks ago and can't seem to figure out the math portion - I'd much rather run a dummy load then have to put a bunch of old HDDS in there just for power draw. Guess I'll investigated further. On a side note, the current PSU does show -8v on the -12v rail where this replacement I found has -11.5v on the -12 v rail, so I think in general, the replacement is a better choice with or without additional load. Also, the -8v PSU is passive which is worse from what I've read, this new one is active. And by new I mean NOS I have in a box full of PSUs.

EDIT: http://www.amibay.com/showthread.php...TX-PSU-adapter


EDIT2: so I did some digging and have learned that connecting several 12v case fans will produce enough load to stabilize the PSU output voltages should that need to be done. can anyone else confirm this? I have plenty of case fans and besides having my Amiga sound like a let liner I don't have issue with it. with my vampire, it's really fast so sounding fast is not a concern lol. My Pc is loud as hell anyway and they'l be sitting side by side when done with this project.

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Old 10 October 2017, 09:57   #67
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Yep, a few fans could be enough as well, though probably even noisier than a bunch of hard drives. The maths isn't that big a deal really - 1 Amp is probably a reasonable minimum draw suitable for most power supplies. From a 12V source, that means a 12 Ohm resistor (12V / 1A). Then you just need the power rating. 1A at 12V is 12W, so anything above that will be fine. It will get hot however so best to mount it on the chassis as a heatsink (making sure it doesn't short!)

This resistor can handle up to 20W so should do the job once it's secured to a heatsink. Any decent supplier in the US will be able to give you something similar.

If you knew the exact minimum load required, the values can be adjusted accordingly. For example, if the minimum load is 0.6A, the resistor needed would be 12/0.6 = 20 ohm, and the power dissipated would be 0.6*12 = 7.2W, so less heat produced and a smaller, 10W resistor would do.

Edit: Yep, that's a good guide you linked to there...

Last edited by Daedalus; 10 October 2017 at 10:07.
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Old 10 October 2017, 16:58   #68
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Yep, a few fans could be enough as well, though probably even noisier than a bunch of hard drives. The maths isn't that big a deal really - 1 Amp is probably a reasonable minimum draw suitable for most power supplies. From a 12V source, that means a 12 Ohm resistor (12V / 1A). Then you just need the power rating. 1A at 12V is 12W, so anything above that will be fine. It will get hot however so best to mount it on the chassis as a heatsink (making sure it doesn't short!)

This resistor can handle up to 20W so should do the job once it's secured to a heatsink. Any decent supplier in the US will be able to give you something similar.

If you knew the exact minimum load required, the values can be adjusted accordingly. For example, if the minimum load is 0.6A, the resistor needed would be 12/0.6 = 20 ohm, and the power dissipated would be 0.6*12 = 7.2W, so less heat produced and a smaller, 10W resistor would do.

Edit: Yep, that's a good guide you linked to there...

Thank you again, I really appreciate your input - you've put my mind at ease. I think I will go with the resistor for a no noise solution. Again, will need to wait a couple of weeks.
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Old 15 December 2017, 21:35   #69
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So I'm done with the hard stuff.

If you're wondering about the recessed DF0 and DF1, I will hardly be using these going forward. I want them there for the rarity I will need them, but I plan to put faceplates over those holes. Just need to find a couple.





















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Old 18 December 2017, 18:02   #70
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I've finally got my HDD speeds max'ed out at 2.7MB/s with the SSD attached. I hooked up the reset switch on the tower case to the Keyboard Reset and ground - works a charm. Next I have to connect the HDD LED on the front of the case to the IDE/SATA adaptor (there are no leads, I have to connect direct to the pins of the connector). I'm thinking I'll test with mini grabber clips (vampire clips). If it works, maybe permanent solution. Once I get the HDD light working on the case, it'll be time to close it up once and for all (Until I'm ready to install the new backplate I have yet to fabricate) and get it ready to paint.

I'm loving it so far. Can't wait to be completed with this entire project so I can actually start using the Amiga as intended...
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Old 23 December 2017, 16:39   #71
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One step closer to starting the paint job.

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Old 23 December 2017, 19:26   #72
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First coat of red done. Once it dries I'll do a coat of black.

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Old 27 December 2017, 17:49   #73
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Forgot about this..... First coat almost done. Probably won't continue for another week or so, redoing my computer desk first. Need to get this baby ready for production use. Paint job is less of a priority ATM.

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Old 28 December 2017, 04:06   #74
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Second coat done. Next run will be touch up. Black will dry Matte, Red is high gloss.

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Old 29 December 2017, 21:53   #75
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And done for now (still some paint touch up and possible LEDs but for now), I can finally start using it.

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Old 30 December 2017, 01:03   #76
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Close Ups.

Still have to touch up painting to do but it's otherwise done.

ATX PSU, Front panel LED Power button, Front Panel LED Power and FDD, DF0: GoTek w/flashfloppy and rotary push button mod - OLED, DF1: external mounted internally, Vampire A500V2 with SD-Net (TCP/IP), 32GB SSD, USB Keyboard Adaptor with wireless keyboard, USB mouse adaptor with PS2 rollerball mouse. Hand Painted case, C= logo and Red Amiga faceplate from original A500.V2+label customized and printed, Boing Ball from previous PC sticker I had - decided to cut out the ball and use on GoTek rotary Knob, it was the perfect size.







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Old 10 February 2018, 02:56   #77
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And now my KB is complete...



https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?f...8&l=4a26d631ec
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Old 19 February 2018, 02:58   #78
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Did some more things to the old Amiga today.
Installed another floppy drive. DF0: = GoTek, DF1: = Comana External and DF2: = Generic External.

Replaced original SDNet with ARANANET adaptor since it has a built in microSD. Used microSD extender to bring sd slot to the front of case (same bay as Comana Floppy drive).

Moved the GoTek forward to expose the face.

Still to do: Custom faceplate for Comana and SD slot. Paint face of GoTek, Comana and DF2 black.

Change out LEDS (all white for now) for RED = Power, Green = floppy access and YELLOW = HDD. Connect HDD LED to ide pins of Vampire for HDD activity.

Touch up, a lot of touch up painting.

Still a work in progress...


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Old 20 February 2018, 01:52   #79
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A bit more...


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Old 20 February 2018, 15:02   #80
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You have done an amazing job at turning what was once a very ugly tower system, into something worthwhile.

If I was to be slant towards your design, I would have to comment on the 500 numbers. They seem to be slightly off. < Or is that intentional?

Anyways, I try to be a perfectionist when custom designing/fabrication and it is not good to be so, Because if you set out to make it perfect in every way, then be prepared to never finish it! Not only this but by making it so perfect, the slightest imperfections stand out, big time!

Some may agree, that with the 500 numbers being slightly out, give your computer character and presence.

Custom work always takes lots of time and money, not to mention the unique aspect, hence why anything sold that has been customised, costs an absolute bomb!
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