1084S Monitor Repair in Melbourne?

[chromium]

So, my beloved 1084S monitor died 6 weeks ago. It just started making this noise when I turn it on, it sounds like a rattling fan, and no picture.

I managed to track down another one 3 weeks ago, which I bought. It was working beautifully and then tonight died while I was using it

The picture seemed to disappear into a horizontal line in the middle of the screen, I quickly turned it off and now when I turn it on it makes the noise the same as my other one.

So now I have 2 dead 1084S-P1 monitors. From what I'm reading I'm pretty sure it's the flyback and probably the HOT.

I really love these things and want to get them fixed but don't think I'm up to the task. I'd love it if someone in Melbourne could help me. I'll pay of course.

Cheers.

[cpiac64]

you need change the EAT

[chromium]

Originally Posted by cpiac64

you need change the EAT

The what? I've heard of LOTP and HOT but not EAT

[roy bates]

i would repair it for you,but the shipping would kill you.

so would the parts,probably...price wise that is.

[chromium]

Originally Posted by roy bates

i would repair it for you,but the shipping would kill you.

so would the parts,probably...price wise that is.

Yeah and the monitor itself might kill me if I try to fix it

I'm sure there are lots of people who can help, I just hope there is one in Melbourne. Otherwise I'm going to have to try to learn to fix them myself.

I also have a working (touch wood) 1084-P that has a spot for a SCART connector but doesn't have it installed. Does anyone know how to install a SCART socket it in it? Is it quite easy to do?

[roy bates]

the scart connector is easy to fit.

if you can take apart the monitors that dont work,just be careful though and read whats on the label on the lopt that will help people identify the replacement part.the hot should be fairly close to the lopt connected to a heatsink.

but be careful dont touch anything.

or take a good picture of the rear of the set.to identify the exact model.

if your worried,just take a picture of the back.

[chromium]

I have had the monitors apart before while they were working to resolder some cracked solder joints on the connectors. I've never discharged the tube before though. I was just careful not to touch anything. Is it easy to identify the HOT and LOPT without having to discharge?

I've attached photos of the backs, but from what I understand all sorts of parts were used in these machines so you really need to see the actual components themselves.

I might have a crack at installing a SCART connector in the 1084S-P, I did try making a cable to get SCART into the 6pin but I could never get sync. I don't think it likes composite video for sync on the 6pin. Any advice on installing the SCART?

Any tips on discharging the tube would be appreciated too

I was planning on getting a rubber handled screwdriver, attaching a wire to it via alligator clips, then attaching the other end of the wire to the ground wire on the monitor (if such a thing exists) then touch the anode under the suction cup with the tip of the screw driver.

[roy bates]

thats more than likely got a AT2079/37591 same as the cm 8833 II philips monitor.
the replacement is a HR7533 if it is.
if it is based on the same chassis the hot is probably a BU508AF,dont forget the thermal paste when/if you replace it.

also,i hope you didnt do any soldering while the monitor was on the irons are grounded.

you can discharge the screen by connecting a clip to the black wire coming from the back of the screen(not the tube degausser wires) to a long screwdriver push it under the suction cup if its got charge while its off it will make a crack noise.
dont touch anything metal with your bare hands,the set is live.


but to be 100% sure its best to actually read whats on the parts.the lopt should have a label on it.

[chromium]

There's no way I did anything while the set was on. I've only had the back off while it was powered off and nowhere near a power point

When you say don't touch anything metal with my bare hands, do you mean while it's switched on, before I discharge it or do you mean I should NEVER touch any metal with my bare hands?

Thanks for the replies. I'll have a crack at identifying the parts this weekend.

[roy bates]

NEVER touch any of it off or on,especially when faulty.
and NEVER with your left hand holding anything metal.

when its discharged its ok,not before.

just be careful. i dont want anyone to get hurt or killed for a monitor.

if your unsure about what your doing,dont do it mate.honestly.

I have a 1084s that works - but has some issues with vsize/vposition, as the top of the screen is cut off by about half an inch... any ideas?