Project: Retrogaming joystick for the masses - Page 6

Swevicus · 10 November 2016, 00:42

Thanks, Daedalus

I'll need to think about it (I've been looking at designs and past joysticks as sources of inspiration for about 10 hours now).

Swevicus · 10 November 2016, 20:29

Now that I've thought about it... another nagging question has popped into my head: Who'd prefer a ball-top handle (TAC 2, Zipstik, Competition Pro) and who'd prefer a trigger/flight-stick-style handle (QuickShot 2 Turbo, TAC 50)?

eXeler0 · 10 November 2016, 20:41

I guess for big arcade sticks I actually prefer this shape, whatever its called in arcade terms.
https://goo.gl/images/lbWJTe

Skickat från min LG-H850 via Tapatalk

Swevicus · 10 November 2016, 20:42

A bat-top handle, common amongst American video arcade halls and made usually by Suzo-Happ and IL (Industrias Lorenzo). Sanwa Denshi also make a bat-top handle which can be used on a ball-top shaft by means of an adaptor.

DamienD · 10 November 2016, 21:27

Quote:

Originally Posted by eXeler0

I guess for big arcade sticks I actually prefer this shape, whatever its called in arcade terms.
https://goo.gl/images/lbWJTe

That's what my HotRodSE has

Swevicus · 10 November 2016, 23:05

You know, guys... I've been thinking quite a bit (steam is coming out of my ears), and I'm starting to realise why not many good quality joysticks had autofire (TAC 2, Powerplay Cruiser, Suzo Arcade, Alberici Albatros, pre-Star Competition Pro, some Zipstik models)... those sticks didn't need it, they were built to last and for comfort and durability. However, since I've dug it out of my crappy Cheetah 125+, I may as well put it to use.

Will I wire it in series or in parallel? Well... it's my first try, so I'll keep it simple and do it in series for now.

Swevicus · 17 November 2016, 22:25

Found some Amiga pads on a site called "Datapixel", based in Portugal... they might be what I need.

PortuguesePilot · 18 November 2016, 01:01

Quote:

Originally Posted by Swevicus

Found some Amiga pads on a site called "Datapixel", based in Portugal... they might be what I need.

Really? Could you share a link?

Minuous · 18 November 2016, 08:17

If you make one like the awesome Multicoin Starcursor I will buy it...here are the diagrams...

http://www.ipaustralia.com.au/applic...gns/198802890/

Swevicus · 18 November 2016, 12:17

Quote:

Originally Posted by PortuguesePilot

Really? Could you share a link?

Here you go.

http://datapixel.pt/joystick-action-pad-am-jt-164

idrougge · 18 November 2016, 13:06

Quote:

Originally Posted by Swevicus

Found some Amiga pads on a site called "Datapixel", based in Portugal... they might be what I need.

Weren't you going to make a joystick?

Swevicus · 18 November 2016, 15:40

I am (don't know when, but I will eventually) - in one of two ways.

1. Padhacking (using the PCB of a gamepad as the "skeleton" of the controller, and soldering each control to the PCB's contact points)

2. Cable transplanting (using the cable of a crappy pre-existing joystick and its autofire circuitry as the "spine" of the controller, and soldering each control to the corresponding wire of the cable and/or autofire circuit)

idrougge · 19 November 2016, 01:48

Why do you need a joypad PCB? Veroboard is much easier to work with.
And why slaughter a fine joypad (I use them myself) when you can take the cable (and PCB) off a Chinese Megadrive pad which costs a fifth?

Swevicus · 19 November 2016, 01:54

1. Easier for me to work with (in terms of figuring out what each contact point does on the PCB).
2. I don't have a Megadrive pad.

ReadOnlyCat · 19 November 2016, 05:05

Quote:

Originally Posted by Swevicus

1. Easier for me to work with (in terms of figuring out what each contact point does on the PCB).
2. I don't have a Megadrive pad.

Here is one on eBay

It is defective so no remorse to rip it apart and it will cost you only 20$ shipping included. There are probably better options if you know how to search.

idrougge · 19 November 2016, 15:09

1. You're fooling yourself. With your own board, you don't have to figure anything out since you don't have reverse-engineer someone else's board.
2. You don't have an ActionPad AM either, and for the price of one, you can have five Megadrive shit-pads. I have the colour codes of the cables written down in case you need them.

Swevicus · 19 November 2016, 15:35

OK, I'll cable transplant (I already gutted a crappy Cheetah 125+ so I might as well put its cable and autofire circuit to good use with the Sanwa JLF wiring harness). As for the colour codes of the cables, I would be most grateful.

Swevicus · 23 November 2016, 12:59

...and the autofire goes right out the window (I misplaced the circuit and can't remember where I put it, so unless I locate it, it's going to be a standard controller). On the upside, it does allow me to shrink the enclosure of the joystick, making the shell smaller... but not so small that it's impossible to grip.

idrougge · 23 November 2016, 13:38

A 555 is a typical autofire and costs as much as a box of matches.

Swevicus · 23 November 2016, 13:56

OK, I'll have a look at this legendary 555 when I get home.

10 November 2016, 00:42	#101
Swevicus Registered User Join Date: Aug 2016 Location: Swindon Age: 35 Posts: 127	Thanks, Daedalus I'll need to think about it (I've been looking at designs and past joysticks as sources of inspiration for about 10 hours now). Last edited by Swevicus; 10 November 2016 at 00:49.

19 November 2016, 01:54	#114
Swevicus Registered User Join Date: Aug 2016 Location: Swindon Age: 35 Posts: 127	1. Easier for me to work with (in terms of figuring out what each contact point does on the PCB). 2. I don't have a Megadrive pad. Last edited by Swevicus; 19 November 2016 at 02:24.

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10 November 2016, 20:29	#102
Swevicus Registered User Join Date: Aug 2016 Location: Swindon Age: 35 Posts: 127	Now that I've thought about it... another nagging question has popped into my head: Who'd prefer a ball-top handle (TAC 2, Zipstik, Competition Pro) and who'd prefer a trigger/flight-stick-style handle (QuickShot 2 Turbo, TAC 50)?

10 November 2016, 20:41	#103
eXeler0 Registered User Join Date: Feb 2015 Location: Sweden Age: 50 Posts: 2,953	I guess for big arcade sticks I actually prefer this shape, whatever its called in arcade terms. https://goo.gl/images/lbWJTe Skickat från min LG-H850 via Tapatalk

10 November 2016, 20:42	#104
Swevicus Registered User Join Date: Aug 2016 Location: Swindon Age: 35 Posts: 127	A bat-top handle, common amongst American video arcade halls and made usually by Suzo-Happ and IL (Industrias Lorenzo). Sanwa Denshi also make a bat-top handle which can be used on a ball-top shaft by means of an adaptor.

10 November 2016, 23:05	#106
Swevicus Registered User Join Date: Aug 2016 Location: Swindon Age: 35 Posts: 127	You know, guys... I've been thinking quite a bit (steam is coming out of my ears), and I'm starting to realise why not many good quality joysticks had autofire (TAC 2, Powerplay Cruiser, Suzo Arcade, Alberici Albatros, pre-Star Competition Pro, some Zipstik models)... those sticks didn't need it, they were built to last and for comfort and durability. However, since I've dug it out of my crappy Cheetah 125+, I may as well put it to use. Will I wire it in series or in parallel? Well... it's my first try, so I'll keep it simple and do it in series for now.

17 November 2016, 22:25	#107
Swevicus Registered User Join Date: Aug 2016 Location: Swindon Age: 35 Posts: 127	Found some Amiga pads on a site called "Datapixel", based in Portugal... they might be what I need.

18 November 2016, 08:17	#109
Minuous Coder/webmaster/gamer Join Date: Oct 2001 Location: Canberra/Australia Posts: 2,641	If you make one like the awesome Multicoin Starcursor I will buy it...here are the diagrams... http://www.ipaustralia.com.au/applic...gns/198802890/

18 November 2016, 15:40	#112
Swevicus Registered User Join Date: Aug 2016 Location: Swindon Age: 35 Posts: 127	I am (don't know when, but I will eventually) - in one of two ways. 1. Padhacking (using the PCB of a gamepad as the "skeleton" of the controller, and soldering each control to the PCB's contact points) 2. Cable transplanting (using the cable of a crappy pre-existing joystick and its autofire circuitry as the "spine" of the controller, and soldering each control to the corresponding wire of the cable and/or autofire circuit)

19 November 2016, 01:48	#113
idrougge Registered User Join Date: Sep 2007 Location: Stockholm Posts: 4,338	Why do you need a joypad PCB? Veroboard is much easier to work with. And why slaughter a fine joypad (I use them myself) when you can take the cable (and PCB) off a Chinese Megadrive pad which costs a fifth?

19 November 2016, 15:09	#116
idrougge Registered User Join Date: Sep 2007 Location: Stockholm Posts: 4,338	1. You're fooling yourself. With your own board, you don't have to figure anything out since you don't have reverse-engineer someone else's board. 2. You don't have an ActionPad AM either, and for the price of one, you can have five Megadrive shit-pads. I have the colour codes of the cables written down in case you need them.

19 November 2016, 15:35	#117
Swevicus Registered User Join Date: Aug 2016 Location: Swindon Age: 35 Posts: 127	OK, I'll cable transplant (I already gutted a crappy Cheetah 125+ so I might as well put its cable and autofire circuit to good use with the Sanwa JLF wiring harness). As for the colour codes of the cables, I would be most grateful.

23 November 2016, 12:59	#118
Swevicus Registered User Join Date: Aug 2016 Location: Swindon Age: 35 Posts: 127	...and the autofire goes right out the window (I misplaced the circuit and can't remember where I put it, so unless I locate it, it's going to be a standard controller). On the upside, it does allow me to shrink the enclosure of the joystick, making the shell smaller... but not so small that it's impossible to grip.

23 November 2016, 13:38	#119
idrougge Registered User Join Date: Sep 2007 Location: Stockholm Posts: 4,338	A 555 is a typical autofire and costs as much as a box of matches.

23 November 2016, 13:56	#120
Swevicus Registered User Join Date: Aug 2016 Location: Swindon Age: 35 Posts: 127	OK, I'll have a look at this legendary 555 when I get home.

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