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Old 07 March 2017, 16:43   #21
Drag0nFly
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Thanks for the link @emufan. It would probably be too time-consuming for me to check the traces and apply that paint, although it could be useful as a last resort on a specific area (by lucky guesswork), if I can't fix the issue by cleaning the membrane with isopropyl alcohol.

btw., it seems strange that the (same generation) keyboards would be physically different (apart from the keycaps). But it appears they are. The main difference is obviously the direction of the return key, which on mine is ^| and on the U.K/U.S layouts it's the other way around ( _| ). (i.e 180 degree counter-clock L shape vs. flipped L-shape, or JIS Return key vs. Backwards-L Return)

Which means that there are two 'special' keys (instead of three) between the L and the return key on U.K/U.S 'bigass-return'-layouts and simply replacing the keys won't work...

I obviously entertained the idea of replacing it, but will have to look for a specific model if I go that route. (and one with 7 cables instead of 8!)

Hopefully by next weekend I'll know more about the state of this keyboard.
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Old 07 March 2017, 17:46   #22
emufan
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checking every trace will be a pain, i was thinking about the contacts for those keys in trouble, due to heavy use.
if those look different to those still working it may be a way to rescue the keyboard.
this applies also to those remote controls. volume / channel change which will suffer the most
and might get repaired using such conductive paint
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Old 07 March 2017, 22:40   #23
bugsymalone666
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After all this time I havent actually solved (bothered being the main bit) the problem but I have found out what does and doesnt work, I think it must be a membrane issue because basically the following keys dont seem to work:

7
U
J
N

and the Amiga Keys, which says to me it must be a track down the middle of the keyboard!

I need to investigate, but I would prefer to fix it if I can
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Old 20 March 2017, 10:59   #24
Drag0nFly
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A somewhat belated update.

Took the keyboard apart this weekend, and thoroughly inspected and cleaned the membrane with isopropyl alcohol. It had dust + dirt on both places where the keys did not work – i.e, the area around the Ctrl key and backspace. And basically no dust anywhere else.

Joyfully thinking I now had solved the problem , I re-assembled it and went ahead and tested the keys.

But alas, the exact same issue persisted. Which is quite curious as the keys and the rest of the membrane looks ok
(and the keys work when repeatedly pressing them after pressing basically all keys on the keyboard)

Argh. And I missed out on a KS 1.2 A500 model with Norwegian layout this weekend.. And now the Gotek drive is apparently freezing up during the i/o stresstest; causing the disk-read test which previously ran over 500 passes to fail
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Old 08 April 2017, 20:24   #25
Irl
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I also have a keyboard where Ctl+Amiga+Amiga isn't working reliably, but individually the keys seem to work just fine. I have noticed that, if I press all 3 down and try to wiggle them while pressed, it will accept the reboot. Not sure why I would have a connection problem with all 3 pressed but not individually, but that is what the symptoms are. I just haven't had the time and desire to bother taking it apart (lazy, really.. because it works with a little shimmying).
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Old 09 April 2017, 18:41   #26
Zippy Zapp
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Hi, I had this problem on a few different keys even going so far as swapping the membrane. For me it turned out to be the little rubber feet on the plunger. They are apparently also conductive and if it wears or dries up or something it won't work. Once I swapped them out it worked perfectly. To get those removed unfortunately you still have to remove all the little tiny screws. But a word of caution there may be a couple of screws that are longer then the others. I didn't realize this until I put it back together...
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