Upstep power converter question

[MartinW]

Is this monitor 50/60Hz or just 50Hz? Should be stated on the back. The step-up transformer will only convert the voltage, not the supplied line frequency (there are ones that can but they are very expensive - $000's).

In the UK if we use something that is 60Hz only on a step-down we run the risk of fire because things can run too hot. Not a lot of people seem to know this. It's not a given that everything will be prone to overheating but I've witnessed it with my own eyes on two occasions now when the lighting ballasts in arcade machines that had been imported from the US caught fire.

I have to say, I'm not sure what the consequences of running a 50Hz item at 60Hz would be? In theory, I guess it should run cooler but I don't have that knowledge.

I also have a game that was imported from the US that point blank refuses to run properly at 50Hz and it has been determined that it has some funky kind of transformer in it that is never going to be happy unless it is run at 60Hz.

Now having said all of this, the most likely culprit is as everyone else has been saying. Probably tired caps IMO but it won't hurt to replace the switch first. Once that is out of the way I'd probably first suspect the 'X' caps (forget their exact name) in the power input section as they will definitely blow fuses when they start to fail.

There's no reason to be afraid of going inside. Just don't touch anything with the power on (should be obvious!), don't run your fingers along the exposed contacts of the PCB and while I would not go so far as to say put a hand in your pocket, if you're dealing with an area that might shock you (disconnecting that sucker cap for example - after discharging it), don't do it with both hands because any shock you might get would then go across your heart and if you have a weak heart could cause you a problem.

I realise I've spent a lot of time inside monitors and that not everyone will be comfortable doing the same. If you're not sure then getting someone else to do it is best.

[Daedalus]

The frequency of the incoming power is of little consequence to most electronics since it is rectified anyway. Unless you're running something that actually uses AC like the AC motor in a vacuum cleaner, the excess heat generated from using a step down is because of inefficiencies in the conversion process itself, which can become a problem as you approach the power handling limits of the transformer. Likewise going the other direction.

Some equipment uses a mains frequency "tick", which is likely why your game doesn't work. Even some big-box Amigas do this, and need to be jumpered differently for different mains frequencies. But it doesn't lead to overheating, just timing issues.

[idrougge]

Originally Posted by indigolemon

I managed to remove the section with the switch from my 1081 so I could work on it on my desk (away from the scary part). https://photos.app.goo.gl/78u4gohXzh3s38c02

Yes, but Akira has a 1084S-D1 where the power supply is integrated on the main card. If not, it would have made sense for him to just exchange the European PSU with an American one.

[Amiga1992]

Yeah for the switch I think I could maybe try and NOT DIE while opening it and work on that area alone. Seems far enough. ButI can be clumsy at times, I just don't know if I want to risk it.
As for a repair shop, those don't exist here anymore, unfortunately. Back in my hometown, they do, and I actually did this with an A600 once (they did a terrible job but they tried).

Nobody repairs shit in teh US of A, they discard and buy new. (this is also how many times I get good stuff that needs minor repair, thrown out!)