24 March 2019, 14:08 | #1 |
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CD32 D-Pad ,3Dprinted?
just wondered if anyone has ever replaced their D Pad on an original wedge shaped CD32 controller with a 3D printed one?
i ask because my original D Pad is kaput, the little pegs that stick out of it have all snapped off and so the pad just spins and isn't useable. found this place that appears to make them https://www.shapeways.com/product/XL...troller-d-pad? and if they have replaced with something like this, is it ok? just trying to fix it so i have a spare in case my comp pro ever packs in thanks Last edited by xubidoo; 24 March 2019 at 18:01. |
24 March 2019, 17:27 | #2 |
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Location: Utah, USA
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3d printing is a fickle thing, but I have replaced a few things with it and it is serviceable. The trick is to use the right plasctics and in fill. I bet some ABS and 100% in fill would be good enough, and if you have your own printer, if/when it breaks, just print another one! I have some competition Pro controllers and at least one of them seems to creak a bit when I use it, like a screw is loose or something. I may see about printing a part for it as a test. If I can get the time to design and print one, I will post on here.
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24 March 2019, 19:47 | #3 |
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Join Date: Feb 2007
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https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Amiga-CD3...8AAOSw4KVb1FBu
I got the above. Postage seems a bit higher since I got it so maybe message for a cheaper price. But the dpad is great and much better than original. Ignore colour, just request black. |
24 March 2019, 20:27 | #4 | |
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Quote:
cheers Gordon , may just order 1 of those .about same price altogether inc postage as place i was looking at, but cant beat some1 recommending something |
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24 March 2019, 22:29 | #5 |
The show must go on.
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I can print one in SLA if you wish, the resolution of it is way better 0,02 mm per layer.
However it will be a green button that's the resin currently in the vat of the printer. |
25 March 2019, 17:17 | #6 | |
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not to keen on green tbh , but thanks anyway. Have ordered a replacement , just hope its good enough to last a while and not break after using for an hour lol |
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25 March 2019, 17:40 | #7 | |
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Haven't tried printing the wood stuff I bought, but I did buy some rubber so I can print up new feet for my A4000D. |
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25 March 2019, 17:58 | #8 |
The show must go on.
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I currently have 4 FDM printers, only one uses autobed leveling. I personally do not like the autobed leveling feature. It starts moving the Z platform up and down to compensate, and I don't want that in a print. I just use a screwdriver and adjust the bed when printing the brim. Even my p3steel needs some adjusting once in a while.
FDM is not really suited for small parts like D pads, it feels not very nice under your thumb. With a cheap anycubic photon SLA printer I get exact replicas of sega master system D pads that feel the same like the originals. For the price it's a awesome printer. I'm currently building a BLV MGN Cube that uses MGN rails. It should be superior to other systems but we will see. |
25 March 2019, 18:06 | #9 |
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Damn, you're making me want to get a resin printer. I mostly have been printing computer parts and miniatures for gaming, which from everything I have seen on the resin printers, they come out much nicer.
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25 March 2019, 18:58 | #10 |
This cat is no more
Join Date: Dec 2004
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anyone can share the 3D file ? I have a friend who owns a 3D printer. I'd like to try that out.
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25 March 2019, 20:44 | #11 | |
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Quote:
Actually there are some other choices as well. https://www.thingiverse.com/search?q...45c992f7b16431 |
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25 March 2019, 23:09 | #12 |
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It's perfect for gaming miniatures, one of the easiest things to print. The ChiTubox slicer is really good for hollowing the model, make drain holes and generate support. Don't get the new white photon its a real piece of &%^%$ Its a all plastic affair, the black steel one works like a treat. But using it is more costly then FDM, resin is about 50 ish euro per liter if you shop around and the LCD screen is a consumable. With normal printing it will last a few years but the UV 405nm destroys the screen slowly.
https://imgur.com/a/vjyMUlY The left one is just a FDM model, to test the new slicer, the right one is a true SLA optimized model, you can even read the miniscule text on it on the top side. |
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