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Old 21 November 2018, 02:21   #1
KKR75
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Monitor 1084S-P1 capacitor list

Hello,

I have looked all over for a capacitor list for my 1084S-P1, but the only list I could find so far is for the 1084S-P, which looks to be a very different monitor.

https://gona.mactar.hu/Commodore/mon...P_CAP-LIST.TXT

Any ideas if that list is at all useful, or my only recourse is to look on the board capacitor by capacitor?

Thank you

Karl
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Old 21 November 2018, 06:44   #2
TjLaZer
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We really do need to get a list going for all the monitors. I am looking for a list as well, along with a 1084S-D1/D2 series as well as the Amiga 1080/2002/1984S and 1940/1942.

Anyone?
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Old 29 November 2018, 16:06   #3
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I have now proceeded to disassemble my 1084S-P1 as it is in need of repairs: broken power switch, only blue and red colors in RGB, etc... In the process, I will be replacing all the capacitors, so I will be creating a list for those and publish it on Gona's list.

Here's the mainboard before the nasty cleanup and teardown:

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Old 29 November 2018, 16:58   #4
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Here you go

https://gona.mactar.hu/Commodore/mon...2_CAP-LIST.TXT
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Old 29 November 2018, 17:15   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rcman View Post
rcman,

this list is for a D1/D2 monitor. I have a P1, they are not the same capacitors.
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Old 29 November 2018, 17:30   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KKR75 View Post
rcman,

this list is for a D1/D2 monitor. I have a P1, they are not the same capacitors.
What about these?

https://forums.arcade-museum.com/arc.../t-301426.html
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Old 29 November 2018, 17:37   #7
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It's cool you mention this, because I do happen to also own the 1084S-P monitor.
Looking at both the P and the P1 from the outside, they are clearly very different monitors, the P was manufactured at least 1 year earlier than the P1.
I will also be taking apart the P for clean-up and capacitor replacement, and at that time I will be able to find out for sure the difference, if any, in the capacitors. But I can almost guarantee you they will be different in some way. Already, the circuit board numbers are different.
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Old 01 December 2018, 14:28   #8
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Here you go gents, I have compiled the list and it is now online on Gona's useful website.
Hope it helps someone out there.

https://gona.mactar.hu/Commodore/mon...1_CAP-LIST.TXT
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Old 04 October 2020, 23:34   #9
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Hey, can you tell me where did you find this big bipolar capacitor?

I changed it recently, but they sold me much smaller one.

Also, can I buy whole capacitor pack for C 1084S-P1 PAL somewhere?

"Bi-Polar / Non-Polarized (Note: This is a special large-size cap dia. 16mm x 29mm long for use with CRT monitors/TV's)"

4.7uA, 50V


Quote:
Originally Posted by KKR75 View Post
Here you go gents, I have compiled the list and it is now online on Gona's useful website.
Hope it helps someone out there.

https://gona.mactar.hu/Commodore/mon...1_CAP-LIST.TXT
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Old 05 October 2020, 17:36   #10
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Can you recap without getting anywhere close to the zappy bits?
The main reason I am not doing this (and I need it, capacitors are acting wonky and power switch is dead) is that I am deathly afraid of the tube.
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Old 05 October 2020, 20:01   #11
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The 1084 monitors basically need you to discharge the tube and take the chassis out for almost any kind of repairs.

Don't worry, discharging is quite underwhelming.
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Old 16 October 2020, 00:54   #12
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Quote:
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The 1084 monitors basically need you to discharge the tube and take the chassis out for almost any kind of repairs.

Don't worry, discharging is quite underwhelming.
What tool do I need to buy to discharge?
I do not want to "use a screwdriver".
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Old 16 October 2020, 09:27   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Akira View Post
Can you recap without getting anywhere close to the zappy bits?
The main reason I am not doing this (and I need it, capacitors are acting wonky and power switch is dead) is that I am deathly afraid of the tube.
Hi mate!

Is that the 1084S-P1 I sold you ages ago while I was living in London? Good times!

Quote:
Originally Posted by Akira View Post
What tool do I need to buy to discharge?
I do not want to "use a screwdriver".
I'm afraid there's no specific tool for it (I use the screwdriver method too).

I remember being deathly afraid of the tube too at the beginning (now I can comfortably tinker with the trimmers with an open CRT next to me, this would have been unthinkable to me just 12 months ago) and I remember once doing the following thing to be sure that the 1084S-P I was going to change the flyback on was certainly discharged - I left it unpowered for an entire month with the power button stuck on on

It worked, when I did the screwdriver method later on (just to be sure) the tube was entirely discharged.
I think a week might be good too, but I would wait for some more confirmation from the more CRT-inclined members in here.
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Old 16 October 2020, 17:36   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Akira View Post
What tool do I need to buy to discharge?
I do not want to "use a screwdriver".
A screwdriver with a cable with alligator clips at the ends is a totally valid tool for the job, though. You short the anode to the ground that is on the mounting ears of the tube and that's it. Usually the chassis has already discharged the CRT for you when you power it down, but sometimes this does not happen if the monitor is faulty or an older design, so you need to do it before you take the anode cap off. :-)

If you wish to spend money, then you can get a high voltage probe, but it is not necessary for a colour CRT and costs quite a bit.
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Old 16 October 2020, 21:53   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jbenam View Post
Is that the 1084S-P1 I sold you ages ago while I was living in London? Good times!
Yeah! good memories of lugging that into and out of -several- under and overground trains haha

Quote:
I left it unpowered for an entire month with the power button stuck on on
I can do that, but how to know if it works? I need to shove the screwdriver in it right?
Actually the button is held on constantly because it's broken, but does the monitor need to be unplugged from mains? I have it connected to a power strip that is off unless I have to power the whole thing on.

The monitor works fine in summer time but as soon as it gets cold, it start blowing the fuses of my step-up converter. if I treat it to a nice blowdryer bath of warmth, it doesn't do it :P

Quote:
Originally Posted by Jope View Post
A screwdriver with a cable with alligator clips at the ends is a totally valid tool for the job, though. You short the anode to the ground that is on the mounting ears of the tube and that's it.
So i plug one alligator clip to the screwdriver metal, and the other to the monitor metal chassis? And it makes a spark of death?
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Old 17 October 2020, 09:50   #16
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Quote:
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So i plug one alligator clip to the screwdriver metal, and the other to the monitor metal chassis? And it makes a spark of death?
Well more like a little snap underneath the suction cup. It is usually very underwhelming. Often there's no snap at all and you're wondering what happened. After you have the cup and clip off, you can discharge it again with the cup off.

Please don't just rip off the cup, there is a clip inside that needs to be squeezed together to release it. The grounded screwdriver is a handy tool to aid in this. :-)

I would recommend grounding to the mounting ears of the CRT, or the metal braid that is wrapped around the rear of the tube and attached to those ears, not anywhere else, as that's what the voltage needs to be equalized to.

The chassis (in monitor speak the chassis is the large printed circuit board where everything is connected to) is a bad place to connect the other clip to, you might damage it if the charge goes through some component that wasn't intended to get it.

Here is a writeup which has the correct info in it, but I think the attitude should have been toned down a bit:
https://www.andysarcade.net/personal...ischarging.txt

Last edited by Jope; 17 October 2020 at 10:44.
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Old 17 October 2020, 11:55   #17
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Quote:
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Yeah! good memories of lugging that into and out of -several- under and overground trains haha


I can do that, but how to know if it works? I need to shove the screwdriver in it right?
Actually the button is held on constantly because it's broken, but does the monitor need to be unplugged from mains? I have it connected to a power strip that is off unless I have to power the whole thing on.

The monitor works fine in summer time but as soon as it gets cold, it start blowing the fuses of my step-up converter. if I treat it to a nice blowdryer bath of warmth, it doesn't do it :P


So i plug one alligator clip to the screwdriver metal, and the other to the monitor metal chassis? And it makes a spark of death?
Yeah! I still think about that every once in a while!

I am quite sure one month is plenty of time for it to discharge. I suspect one week might be enough, but I'm not entirely sure of it.

Yeah, sticking the screwdriver with the alligator clip on the grounding like Jope suggests is a sure-fire way of checking if it's still charged.

If the blow-dryer helps, I suspect it might just be a cold joint somewhere. You should be able to pin-point the precise location with the help of a freezing can. It might not even be necessary to fully recap the monitor, but if you're inclined to do it, it can only be a good thing and prolong the life of the monitor.

BTW the size of the spark is proportional to the charge still stored in it - if you leave it unplugged for 24h or so, it should only do a small crackle, or maybe none at all. You can hear the huge pop only if you discharge it straight after turning it off.

I wonder if the 1084S has got a bleeder resistor like my M1438 does? I can just leave my M1438 with the power button depressed (and no power) for a few minutes for it to be fully discharged all by itself. Pretty handy!
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Old 19 October 2020, 17:08   #18
Akira
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Thank you both for all this super good info. I'll look into this.
Now I realize, I don't really know where you are supposed to stick the screwdriver into :P

Is there any video online that shows how this is done? All the videos I saw on Youtube largely skip over this part/assume we know what to do.
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Old 21 October 2020, 00:10   #19
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Thank you both for all this super good info. I'll look into this.
Now I realize, I don't really know where you are supposed to stick the screwdriver into :P

Is there any video online that shows how this is done? All the videos I saw on Youtube largely skip over this part/assume we know what to do.
Sure, there ya go: https://youtu.be/-jbnFuVWTdk
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