30 April 2009, 21:04 | #1 |
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1084s monitor problem :(
Hey guys, I have this 1084s-d1 monitor lying around, problem is the picture is VERY green I would really love to get this monitor fixed, do u think this is something I could do myself ? or is it even worth spending time or money to get it fixed ? I should add that apart from the picture being very green, it seems to work like a charm, doesnt even bloom the picture or anything, like my older 1084s does, and i should add the greenish pciture is allso when my c64 is connected, so i was thinking that it might be worth trying to fix it any help is apreciated here thx guys
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30 April 2009, 21:27 | #2 |
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now it's good for http://hol.abime.net/5373
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30 April 2009, 21:32 | #3 |
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Lol :d
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30 April 2009, 21:37 | #4 |
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lol
its not the green button stuck is it ? prob be able to turn green gun down abit but would wait for someone who knows about this sorta thing first |
30 April 2009, 21:51 | #5 |
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I knew someone would ask that lol,
hmm ok, maybe i should allso add that it looks like there is no blue colour ?!? |
30 April 2009, 22:01 | #6 |
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If you don't know what you are doing, leave it alone, you may die from the experience.
It could be the green colour gun in the crt has failed, if so, I don't think it's fixable |
30 April 2009, 22:07 | #7 |
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OMG!! I tried pushing the green switch a gazilion times, coz it seemed something was going on now I have blue back Still looks a little odd, maybe there is hope here
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30 April 2009, 22:19 | #8 |
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Maybe there's a solder joint issue or the switch has died.
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30 April 2009, 22:24 | #9 |
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"Any" 1081/1084(s) problem: number one cause is cracked solder joints. Standard Philips quality at that time
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30 April 2009, 22:25 | #10 |
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well I havent opened up the monitor, but now i have colour back, but the white colour looks like its got a hint of blue now and when i turn the contrast knob it looks like it wants to go white, but then dims back down, aarg its times like this i wish a digital cam
btw, no problem with the green switch now, maybe it was somehow stuck |
30 April 2009, 22:27 | #11 |
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ok, so i should investigate with a soldering iron, tomorrow maybe, to see if ´something looks cracked
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30 April 2009, 22:31 | #12 |
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Good luck in your quest and I hope it's a simple fix too
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30 April 2009, 22:55 | #13 |
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30 April 2009, 23:17 | #14 |
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hum just think we my never hear if he did`t fix it heheheh
good luck extralife |
01 May 2009, 13:17 | #15 |
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Yep! If he touches those extra powerful volts he'll certainly get a buzz out of it. Hope he comes back with good news
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01 May 2009, 16:00 | #16 |
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first at all check the cable and the plugs,maybe the RED line is desoldered..
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01 May 2009, 18:08 | #17 | |
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Quote:
Bad solder joints will lead to a black screen, not this. I surely hope he had an extra life just in case |
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01 May 2009, 20:27 | #18 |
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Blue and Red pin has no connection, or the "green button" is shorted. Measure the R and B input pins first. If 0, try to patch it internally to the RGB input connector. If it's the "green button", cut the PCB to remove it from the equation.
It could be the cannons, but I seriously doubt it. Only the Trinitron monitors have bad cannons, except Sony Trinitron. If it were the cannons, you would get a decent picture with just some loss of red and blue, ie not all green. So, definitely repairable easily methinks. |
02 May 2009, 11:24 | #19 |
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so I finally got around to open up this sucker and im very suprised to say that it looks like its in a very good condition, cant spot any cracked solders or any leaks, I unplugged all cables and cleaned everything inside and everything seems like it should be in order, except I have lost my blue colour again, but I suspect that it might actually be a fairly easy fix, since everything looks like its in good condition. I have a feeling I should probly find someone who dares mess around inside this thing, Im not sure want to risk my own life for this
BTW the picture looks fine only problem is that it seems to miss the blue colour I can spot both red and green colours just fine, I just find it odd that the blue came back the other night and now its gone again ??? |
02 May 2009, 12:47 | #20 |
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Greetings,
Ok, firstly residual current is stored initially in the main filter cap, usually the biggest on the board which drains after some 10 - 15 seconds, if it's fitted with a bleed resistor. The only other place for residual current is the ultor cap at the top of the picture tube, which you short using two long shafted metallic screwdrivers, one connected to the aquadag ( the greyish painting around the tube ) and the other crossed across the first one and slide it up under the cap until you hear a faint crackle or pop. Regarding guns, Phillips made tubes are notorious for their guns going low emission, if you have a tube rejuvinator, which I doubt you do, you can use that to try to bring the low emission guns back up, then adjust your red / blue drive on the neck board, green is usually fixed, as reference. Phillips made boards were notorious for solder cracking, because they didn't use lead in their soldering process, look especially around the flyback transformer, the main driver for the flyback ( transistor ) and the driver components, usually the little isolation transformer between the horizontal drive and the line stage itself. Most likely problems are like people have said, resolder all the points where the monitor cable connects to the neck board, resolder the main gun drivers ( three largish transistors in a line, or close by ), check them for shorts / opens. I have also seen the wires inside the cables break quite frequently too, or pins in the connector itself, they push back into the shell and don't stick out enough, also bent pins, broken pins. Also the wiper contacts on the pots on the neck board can sometimes lose their tension and not contact properly, just replace them. Sorry I didn't reply earlier, this has really been my first chance, Paul |
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