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Old 14 June 2019, 20:48   #21
gdonner
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Thanks! I'll run Scout tonight and see what it says; definitely worth a try..!
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Old 14 June 2019, 21:45   #22
brett71
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Several years ago, I had an A3000 that had the old barrel-type battery that had leaked very little (incredibly) but I replaced the NiCad with a modern Lithium-Ion battery in the same form factor, so it was a drop-in replacement. (I'd read somewhere that the barrel batteries and the CR2032 coin-style batteries did not provide the exact same wattage/amperage or something like that, so opted to go with the drop-in replacement.)

The weird thing that I always had with the RTC, both before and after the battery swap, was that I'd have to set the clock when I booted the machine and it would run fine and keep time while the machine was on, but for a period of time while the machine was off, the clock would keep time, but then just stop. It was like it stopped ticking, but was able to remember the time when the ticking stopped, just like an old-fashioned wind-up clock. I never could figure out what the magic amount of time was when the clock would stop ticking. Sometimes it was an hour, sometimes it was less. It was just odd to come back to the machine, power it up, check the clock and see that the clock was off but not totally reset back to some default date in 1970 or something like that...
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Old 15 June 2019, 15:30   #23
Hewitson
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Wow. The amount of knowledge in this thread is simply amazing.

For interests sake, what is the best method of repairing battery-acid damaged vias?
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Old 16 June 2019, 03:37   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hewitson View Post
Wow. The amount of knowledge in this thread is simply amazing.

For interests sake, what is the best method of repairing battery-acid damaged vias?
For vias that are not connected to internal layers of the board... 30 gauge kynar wire from one side of the board, threaded through the via, and connected to the other side of the board. Expose some of the trace on both sides of the board that attach to the via, and solder. Cover the repair with a UV cured solder mask repair material.

If you're talking about plated through holes that ICs and such go into, the same can be done, but, if you want stability, it's best to drill the PCB using proper kit, and swage in a new eyelet. The reconnect to the traces with solder.
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Old 16 June 2019, 06:04   #25
Hewitson
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I was actually talking about vias that are connected to internal layers of the board
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Old 16 June 2019, 08:13   #26
RDP
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I'm back with some updates:

1. Most importantly I have found a hero in Tokyo willing to work on my Amiga, and he is already a user here, so glad I signed up to this forum.... I will try to setup a meeting with him in a few weeks (have a bit of a busy time at work right now). I am going to ask him to bring one of his mouse so we can get that super simple test of of the way......

2. Lemon Juice: Am I a fool for letting it wait two weeks or so until I can get the professional to look at it? I have never done anything with liquid on a populated board before (or any for that matter...) and am wanting to do it right. Can anyone recommend a verified Youtub video? Honestly, I would prefer to wait.

3. Jim Drew: Wow, I had so many of your products, starting with Sybil (where did I put that!?!?!?!) ..... Emplant (still have it), Fusion.....

4. I re-seated Denise as someone suggested for a short-term fix, but almost broke one of the legs putting it back in, my, I have to be more careful. And, take note, some IC extractors are made better than others; mine sucks. While the first tests after showed the mouse having the same issues, today I am doing much better.... no idea why.....

5. I went ahead an ordered a Noctua 80mm fan for the power supply.

6. Really confused over best solution to replace my rotating media. SCSI2SD V5 might not be as fast as it could be, and V6 might have issues running on the WarpEngine SCSI? I can get an ACard 7722 LVD adapater locally for a reasonable price, but get the feeling some people note it should only be used for Optical drives, and it might have WarpEngine issues as well? Would be grateful for any suggestions to go with the WarpEngine SCSI controller.

7. To make things interesting I now have a new problem, which I might have had before, but didn't notice until now as my graphics were on the CyberVision64 via Picasso6, but to troubleshoot I removed all the expansion cards so now running the monitor via Amber and friends, but I certainly do have the issue now: It seems to be graphics corruption; it seems to be maybe highlights that should be white, go green? The normal grey background can go green as well, and highlight graphics in games, maybe associated with copper effects can corrupt? I think I might need to make a video of this one..... more to follow..... Are there any good graphics diagnostics tools in software?

***UPDATE: Mouse is working today, so far,..... it's incredible...

thanks as always everyone,
RDP

Last edited by RDP; 16 June 2019 at 09:48.
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Old 16 June 2019, 10:10   #27
trixster
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Scsi2sd v5 manages about 1.something mb/s. V6 works fine too although can be funny about updating firmware and can be picky to get working without throwing errors. There’s a thread on here somewhere about it
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Old 16 June 2019, 13:47   #28
kirk_m
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hewitson View Post
I was actually talking about vias that are connected to internal layers of the board
In that case, you'd have to determine what exactly the via connects to internally -- ground, power, signal line -- via schematics. You can then run a jumper wire to an accessible spot on the board that corresponds to the type of line it connects to (power or ground). For example, if the via drops into an internal ground plane, find the nearest GND spot and connect the jumper to it. If it's a signal line, then, view the schematics to deduce where it emerges back onto the top of the board and to which component it connects to, and jumper appropriately.

Otherwise, you'll be doing a complicated procedure that involves milling the holes to expose the inner layers...risky.

Like this:

http://www.circuitrework.com/guides/5-3.html
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Old 17 June 2019, 14:11   #29
gdonner
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@ Brett71: That sounds a lot like my system--good to know it's not unusual!
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Old 20 June 2019, 10:33   #30
Kin Hell
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RDP View Post
I'm back with some updates:

....<snip>....

2. Lemon Juice: Am I a fool for letting it wait two weeks or so until I can get the professional to look at it? I have never done anything with liquid on a populated board before (or any for that matter...) and am wanting to do it right. Can anyone recommend a verified Youtub video? Honestly, I would prefer to wait.

....<snip>....

RDP
The residue from a leaking battery deposits an Alkaline on surrounding components. Usually seen as a white or green-blue fur.

Lemon Juice or White Vinegar are Mild Acids & destroy these Alkaline deposits, so they can't go eating their way through the layers of your Motherboard tracks & their deep rooted VIA's

[ Show youtube player ]

You still sat here.....?
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Old 26 June 2019, 08:18   #31
whaka
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Originally Posted by brett71 View Post
Several years ago, I had an A3000 that had the old barrel-type battery that had leaked very little (incredibly) but I replaced the NiCad with a modern Lithium-Ion battery in the same form factor, so it was a drop-in replacement. (I'd read somewhere that the barrel batteries and the CR2032 coin-style batteries did not provide the exact same wattage/amperage or something like that, so opted to go with the drop-in replacement.)
i'm not sure NiCd can be "drop in" replaced with a Li-ion battery.
lithium ion need a specific charging control, and are intolerent to things a NiCd/Mh can tolerate.
so, is the replacement battery embbed such electronic ?
if not, be careful...

CR2032 don't provide the same voltage as the original.
original battery is 3,6V and 3V for the 2032.
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Old 26 June 2019, 14:13   #32
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i'm not sure NiCd can be "drop in" replaced with a Li-ion battery.
lithium ion need a specific charging control, and are intolerent to things a NiCd/Mh can tolerate.
so, is the replacement battery embbed such electronic ?
if not, be careful...

CR2032 don't provide the same voltage as the original.
original battery is 3,6V and 3V for the 2032.
You just need a diode in place to stop the CR2032 from charging and you should be golden I've got one of these mods on my A4000 with great success.

They also sell small PCBs with a SMD sized diode on it if you want something smarter-looking.
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Old 26 June 2019, 18:02   #33
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AmigaKit and other places sell the coin cell battery replacement module. I've found they work really well.
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Old 27 June 2019, 13:05   #34
whaka
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You just need a diode in place to stop the CR2032 from charging and you should be golden I've got one of these mods on my A4000 with great success.

They also sell small PCBs with a SMD sized diode on it if you want something smarter-looking.
sure, for a simple CR2032 putting a diode is perfectly fine

but i mean for the Li-ion battery (indeed, rechargable), it's a bit more complicated, as as they can't be charged as NiCd/Mh can.
they need a particular charge control, and if the replacement don't embbed the "smart" electronic for this, i doubt it last very long, and can seriously be destroyed.
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Old 10 July 2019, 14:59   #35
RDP
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Hello all, I'm back after a hectic business trip, and have a few updates:

1. Amiga output graphics shimmering (not Cybervision 64): Needed to adjust Amber trimpot. Fixed. doh!

2. Amiga output (not Cybervision 64) occasional graphics corruption. See next point.

3. Mouse issues (basically the start of this whole thread). Well....... it's not the mouse, it's a connection somewhere, because the fix to it, and to point 2 as well, though both symptoms don't necessarily happen simultaneously, is to apply torque to the A3000 chassis. I find one hand on the area around the front of the chassis about where the daugthercard is, and then the back of the chassis, at the back of the daugthercard will remedy the problem, until it comes back again. Definitely needs this fixed, but happy I now know it's a connection issue, nothing else.

4. Replacement for what I believe might be the worlds loudest 3.5" SCSI drive, the Seagate Hawk ST32151N: I bought a used Acard 7720U w/OS 3.75 on it, and have it running of a Seagate ST320014A. This thing is whisper quiet, until I figure out what I will do for non-rotational storage. However, as usual I have issues (please see below):


Acard 7720U w/OS 3.75: This is running off my WarpEngine, the drive is 20gb large, and I have two partitions on it, the first is 903mb using FFS, the second is also 903mb, using PFS. Sysinfo shows the drive reading around 7.5mb a second, so I am happy with the performace, but I have a test that will usually give a Read Block error or two, which clicking Retry will remedy, but the problem is a concern, and I am stumped at what it might be. My DH0: is 23megs full, with around 2300 files. The command is:

copy dh0:#? ram: all clone quiet

Sometimes I can get through this without a Read Block error, but most times I will get one, or two errors. I have pulled my hair out over term and term power settings, LUN, TID, Reselection, and the what, but cannot figure out what might be the issue, the blocks that have errors are never the same, different every time. According to my WarpEngine Checkdrives program, the mask and maxtransfer seems to be good, and from what I read the Acard actually makes it so I don't have to care about IDE parameters, but now, I'm perplexed. Currently I have term power enabled on the WarpEngine, and try many combinations with the term and term power on the Acard (the only device in the chain), but surprisingly changing the term and term power do not display a measurable difference in the frequency of obtaining the read errors. I'm stumped! And, I'm rambling....

Thanks all,
RDP
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