It's a Knockout! 2014/15: Round 1 - Solid Gold

[lifeschool]

Originally Posted by john1979

I was going to say when you mentioned buying a Zipstik from Amigakit that they don't sell them unfortunately.

I saw a boxed pink version on the amigakit stall in Blackpool, but when I went back for it, it had gone. They only had one and yes they dont advertise them on their web site I found out.

Originally Posted by john1979

the prices for Zipstiks a lot in the last two years. I bought three.. £15 each then. Now a good one is £25 upwards. That particular pink one has been relisted for months. They just stick them on and wait till someone needs one bad enough they are forced to pay through the nose.

I am surprised you were watching my pink zipstik for months. I looked at the rest and I know a cheap zipstik is not worth the hassle. I almost decided to get another full set of new microswitches, but then I wouldnt have 2 zipsticks to use, and new micros dont last anywhere near as long as the legit 90's ones in real joysticks. As for pay through the nose, £30 isnt so bad for a perfect mint example; which it is, now that I restored it. I ordered a bunch of flowers to be delivered to my mum on x-mas eve and that came to the same money, and flowers only last a few days/weeks.

Originally Posted by john1979

I have a slowly increasing problem with all three of my Zipstiks is that the shaft travel is slowly increasing over time.

I used to use tape wrapped around the square block on the shaft to lessen the distance travelled and tighten things up. Now I find it is often all about the microswitches, and if they are good then there is acceptable shaft travel, but if they are bad then its bad. The coil spring can also become very slack over time and this means the travel is easier and therefore seems worse. There is nothing that can be done to fix this except for get a new Zip. With my new zip (i.e. the old one with mint parts inside) the travel is no more than 1.5mm, but with the new zip (now with old micros inside) the travel is over 2mm in each direction; and this is not ideal. I also found by lowering the gripper on the fire bottons, I can reduce travel when firing, and also to raise the microswitch in its seat with layers of thick card.

Originally Posted by john1979

Nows the time to buy Zipstiks if anyone really wants one. Not particularly fond of the buttons on the Comp Pro and TAC-2s are a similar price to gold bullion.

I hate leaf-sprung joysticks and buttons in any capacity, and they are only very good for button mashers like SEUs.

Originally Posted by john1979

Managed to beat the game. I feel like I'm finding my confidence with this now.

Wow, well done. How many levels are there? I made it to 3-2 on my furthest try, so I'd say there are at lest 5 levels after that???

Originally Posted by john1979

I missed a lot of score because I did not realise bats and some other enemies could be killed until I accidentally fell on them.

This was my biggest problem with my previous run earlier this week. I went to kill ALL the enemies, snakes, spiders, bats - and this lead to silly mistakes when they killed me first. However, I 'think' I found the enemy count at the end of each level only counts up the human enemies, and not the animals?

btw, I had another go with my new joy last night and got a little more score but no further than 2-3.

[john1979]

Originally Posted by lifeschool

I used to use tape wrapped around the square block on the shaft to lessen the distance travelled and tighten things up. Now I find it is often all about the microswitches, and if they are good then there is acceptable shaft travel, but if they are bad then its bad. The coil spring can also become very slack over time and this means the travel is easier and therefore seems worse. There is nothing that can be done to fix this except for get a new Zip. With my new zip (i.e. the old one with mint parts inside) the travel is no more than 1.5mm, but with the new zip (now with old micros inside) the travel is over 2mm in each direction; and this is not ideal. I also found by lowering the gripper on the fire bottons, I can reduce travel when firing, and also to raise the microswitch in its seat with layers of thick card.

Thanks for the tips. There's some useful knowledge there that might save a few ailing Zipstiks. I had not considered trying to fix the one Airey sold me but now I will give it try Blue Peter style with card and sticky tape.

Wow, well done. How many levels are there? I made it to 3-2 on my furthest try, so I'd say there are at lest 5 levels after that???

This was my biggest problem with my previous run earlier this week. I went to kill ALL the enemies, snakes, spiders, bats - and this lead to silly mistakes when they killed me first. However, I 'think' I found the enemy count at the end of each level only counts up the human enemies, and not the animals?

There's only one more world with two levels after the third level of Egypt. They are only slightly more difficult. Once you're through Egypt it seems chances are good you can beat it.

Not sure about the enemy count. Think it takes into account Bats, Snakes etc but could be wrong. Needs checking out

It is confusing which enemies you can kill. For example you can not kill ghosts but later you can kill Bats which look more spiky to land on. Now I resort to just jumping on everything that moves and learning from error.

I hate leaf-sprung joysticks and buttons in any capacity, and they are only very good for button mashers like SEUs.

Same. I like Comp Pro but the original at least (not sure about the one Ami kit sells) had terrible buttons that give little feedback and wore out quickly. I am not sure why they are so universally loved by gamers. Maybe there was a version that had microswitched buttons instead?

I am surprised you were watching my pink zipstik for months.

[lifeschool]

John, all the best with the repairs. With the buttons/card idea, its a fine line, as if the screws under the two buttons are too tight it can stop the buttons from working. As far as the tape idea, try gaffer tape in one long strip, wrapped no more than 1mm thick. As I say, if the micros are bad, and the spring is bad, even these repairs will only give small results. Thats why I went for a virtually brand new joy with new innards. However. I found the slack spring in the old joy works well with the stiff micros, and the stiff spring in the new joy works well with the old micros, so both are slightly worn in. Its like the Gun Shop scene in the Clint Eastwood movie where he takes apart all the guns and builds a better one.

@ ED / Graham - I know I'm only a cheerleader on EAB but would it be too much to have a score from you guys? Qualifying may already be a foregone conclusion, so lets get it out of the way then eh?

[modrobert]

lifeschool,

I had similar experience with modern microswitches, they suck pretty bad, recently repaired a wireless logitech mouse for the PC where I've replaced the left mouse button microswitch three times already. Back in the day those switches were good for 2-4 million "actions" before failing, now that seems to be reduced to 100k or even lower.

If anyone knows a brand of microswitches which still perform well please let me know.

[Hewitson]

Originally Posted by modrobert

If anyone knows a brand of microswitches which still perform well please let me know.

The Omron & Cherry microswitches are still very reliable in my experience.

[modrobert]

Originally Posted by Hewitson

The Omron & Cherry microswitches are still very reliable in my experience.

Thanks!

EDIT:



Now that's more like it; 30 million operations! The switch will probably outlive both me and the Amiga.

[vagrant]

50,095
Havn't had a lot of time this week and have been suffering since my birthday
Here's a deliberately average score to keep Graham feeling competitive!

(Total bollocks btw, I had a terrible run..)

[Graham Humphrey]

I wouldn't worry too much about your 'average' score...



17,245

[lifeschool]

Originally Posted by modrobert

lifeschool, I had similar experience with modern microswitches, they suck pretty bad, recently repaired a wireless logitech mouse for the PC where I've replaced the left mouse button microswitch three times already. Back in the day those switches were good for 2-4 million "actions" before failing, now that seems to be reduced to 100k or even lower.

I made the mistake of buying micros which looked ok on the ebay ad, but when I got them home they lasted about 8 months before the whole thing needed replacing again. My original Zipstik micros lasted 8 years!

Originally Posted by Hewitson

The Omron & Cherry microswitches are still very reliable in my experience.

Only Amiga (forum) makes it possible!, thanks a lot. With this information it is possible to keep it alive.

@Graham and ED-209 - Thanks chaps. Now just 3 players remaining to put down a score.

[capehorn]

30,350

I don't know whether that will be my last go or not. It was going to be, but then this is the first time that I've actually enjoyed playing it

[capehorn]

43,000... 8 lives, and it crashed loading the next level. Can't say I didn't try.

[Graham Humphrey]

Round over, and well done to the eight people that qualified. New round and quarter-final draw to follow shortly...