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Old 03 August 2016, 02:24   #1
stefcep2
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Apollo 1260 battery leak

Was in the process of getting my A1200 Apollo 1260 online which hadn't been used in a bout a year.

Red screen on boot

Pulled Apollo out, A1200 boots ok.

Looking on Apollo board, barrel battery has furry deposit.

Removed battery.

Chip next to it has corroded legs. Gave a bit of clean up with a wire brush. No boot.

Can anyone recommend a quality repairer. I'm in Australia.(I've had Castellan do some work for me on an A4000, but he's unavailable until November)
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Old 03 August 2016, 09:36   #2
Zetr0
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@stefcep2

Hello there buddy, sadly my friend, it looks as though you have lost the F74 IC due to battery leakage. I would humbly suggest to neutralize this with some lemon juice and flush with water.

If you feel confident in repair you may well be able to but I do humbly suggest that if you are in the least bit unsure find a local electrician repair shop.

IMHO the 74F74 will need to be removed, the tracks underneath repaired, the acid damaged copper also repaired and a new 74F74 installed.

Have a look at this thread - there is a part about the 74F74 IC and it will show you the context of the severity of the damage your has likely suffered.
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Old 03 August 2016, 11:34   #3
hese
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You could try Amisynth, he is located in Australia.

http://www.amisynth.on.net/amiga_repairs.htm
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Old 03 August 2016, 12:12   #4
stefcep2
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@zetro. Are those chips available still?
@hese. I will email them and see how I go. Thanks.

So angry with myself as of course I knew about the A4000 motherboard battery which I have removed and completely forgot the Apollo had one too.
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Old 03 August 2016, 14:48   #5
Zetr0
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@stefcep2

Yes the 74F74 is widely available and cheap - the problem you will have is removing the IC and repairing the damage to the layers underneath - sadly I have an Apollo 060 here that has had a worse looking leak than yours - unfortunately even after several attempted repairs by some expert engineers the traces were unsavable - using the finest wire to jump from points on the board introduce to much noise for a clock-signal.

I am not saying yours is to any degree as bad as the one I have here, but I do humbly suggest that you get on top of it as soon as you can.

Good luck with this =)
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Old 04 August 2016, 07:44   #6
stefcep2
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I used the lemon juice. rinsed with water hair dried it left it over night to dry.

This morning thought I'd try it again......

IT BOOTED!!!

For about 3 minutes, crashed, and didn't start again.
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Old 08 August 2016, 10:22   #7
paul1981
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stefcep2 View Post
I used the lemon juice. rinsed with water hair dried it left it over night to dry.

This morning thought I'd try it again......

IT BOOTED!!!

For about 3 minutes, crashed, and didn't start again.
Check the jumper pins near the leak, clean them and perhaps try different jumpers as the leak could have corroded them somewhat.

When I got my 1260, it still had that white-cased battery on it. I thought it was ok for a few years but had a good look one time and decided to remove it. Mine had leaked too, I'm quite annoyed with myself still....this was some years ago now. Anyway, you're certainly not alone.
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Old 09 August 2016, 09:18   #8
stachu100
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stefcep2 View Post
For about 3 minutes, crashed, and didn't start again.
This is good sign - card will be rock stable if someone will do professionall service.
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Old 11 February 2020, 01:21   #9
AlfaRomeo
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Hi, I have an Apollo 1260/50 with some damage from the leaked battery.

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I already cleaned the acid some years ago but never fixed the damage and now I want to try to replace the 74F74 but the copper pads to solder the IC legs all gone.

Now, I want to solder some wires between the IC legs and the nearest soldable points but I need to know the schematic of the Apollo or, at least where to go the tracks from the IC legs 1,3,4,10,11,13 and 14.

Can someone illuminate me, please??
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Old 11 February 2020, 14:57   #10
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i've made an article long time ago, see if helps you. https://arananet-net.kinja.com/repar...ato-1764500972
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Old 11 February 2020, 20:55   #11
AlfaRomeo
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@arananet: Thanks for your help.

My Apollo 1260 it´s in bad shape, the solder pads doesn´t exist any more.

I already got the schematic of the 74f74 zone, for anyone who interest:

Photos of the Apollo 1260/40 traces by John Hertell:
https://www.facebook.com/search/top/...epa=SEARCH_BOX

Continuity tests between the following pins of the 74f74 chip (by Dimlow):
2 and 6
4 and 10
8 and 12
13 and 14
1 and 14
3 and the 060 pin on the clock jumpers
11 and the 040 pin on the clock jumpers

5v on pins 1,4,10,13 and 14

Last edited by AlfaRomeo; 12 February 2020 at 00:07.
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Old 12 February 2020, 14:17   #12
arananet
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AlfaRomeo View Post
@arananet: Thanks for your help.

My Apollo 1260 it´s in bad shape, the solder pads doesn´t exist any more.

I already got the schematic of the 74f74 zone, for anyone who interest:

Photos of the Apollo 1260/40 traces by John Hertell:
https://www.facebook.com/search/top/...epa=SEARCH_BOX

Continuity tests between the following pins of the 74f74 chip (by Dimlow):
2 and 6
4 and 10
8 and 12
13 and 14
1 and 14
3 and the 060 pin on the clock jumpers
11 and the 040 pin on the clock jumpers

5v on pins 1,4,10,13 and 14
I draw this, in "theory" it should be connected like that.

https://imgur.com/0BfXq8L
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Old 13 February 2020, 20:35   #13
AlfaRomeo
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@aranet: Thanks for you clock divider schematic.

I did the continuity tests and they match with your schem
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Old 19 February 2020, 05:59   #14
arananet
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AlfaRomeo View Post
@aranet: Thanks for you clock divider schematic.

I did the continuity tests and they match with your schem
Great to hear buddy.
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