15 May 2014, 22:59 | #1 |
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Location: Saint-Petersburg / Russia
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Fixing Cyberstorm MK-III CPU socket
Sooo, I have borrowed this Phase5 Cyberstorm MK-III equipped with 68060RC50 from a friend along with his A4000. I needed an 040 or 060 CPU card to dig compatibility problems my network/RAM combo card had with 040.
Anyway, I was only able to run the setup for a day, when it started to show all kinds of lockups, boot failures, green screen, and finally stopped to boot at all. Pressing Caps Lock toggled its LED ten or twelve times and then stopped toggling. After some googling I decided to take a look at the CPU. Everything looked more or less OK, except for those suspicious CPU socket pins. Yeah right, this is it: socket problem. The disease is pretty well known, and can be cured. One excellent recipe suggests removing old socket and replacing it with a bunch of socket strips: http://pink.myshoesaretootight.com/m...rm_socket.html I haven't got that lot of socket strips, and totally was not ready for that amount of soldering. Besides, it would be nice to keep original socket. I happen to own an inexpensive Chinese hot bench, and the idea was to carefully and slowly heat the board up until the solder was about to melt; and then to have all those cracked solder joints to heal themselves with a good bit of flux and hot air gun. (It helps to try the procedure on an old PC motherboard first) A big portion of flux was applied to socket pins where possible, with the hope it'd soak the rest of them later. Aluminium foil scotch tape protected certain board areas and components. Baking time! The hot bench heats up very slowly, somewhere 1C in 2 seconds. The set temperature is 300C, and it drops to about 280C at 2cm height where the board is fixed. I don't have a pyrometer so this temperature was set by trial and error with (now certainly dead) that old PC mobo. While flux starts evaporating, hot air gun helps pins to restore solder joints from top. All done, let the board cool down. The result looks much better: Zoomin in: Et voila! |
15 May 2014, 23:21 | #2 |
Thalion Webshrine
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Oxford
Posts: 14,357
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nicely done
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15 May 2014, 23:26 | #3 |
Professional slacker!
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Nice work :-D
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15 May 2014, 23:35 | #4 |
Global Moderator
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: Sidcup, England
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Hey, that's a great job!
Those joints look real solid now. |
16 May 2014, 23:06 | #5 |
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Location: Canada
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Excellent, I bet you can also heat the board from the bottom with the heat gun after soaking the pins with solder flux. Good for future reference!
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02 June 2014, 09:54 | #6 |
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Location: Melbourne, Australia
Age: 41
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Congratulations on the repair, impressive considering the brand of equipment used.
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02 June 2014, 13:10 | #7 |
Amiga Nuts!
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Le Mayet d'Ecole, 03800, FRANCE
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Well done pal ^^)
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02 June 2014, 13:26 | #8 |
Glastonbridge Software
Join Date: Jan 2012
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does such a high temperature not risk damaging the components?
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02 June 2014, 14:19 | #9 |
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The risk is minimal, provided you are only heating the necessary parts (pins, solder joints) and don't expose them to extra high temperatures. When the boards are assembled on factories they are heated to a similar grade (250-300C or higher), including each and every component be it ceramic or plastic.
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09 June 2014, 19:28 | #10 | |
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Quote:
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09 June 2014, 21:42 | #11 | |
Registered User
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Saint-Petersburg / Russia
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Quote:
I don't think heat is the problem, the 68060 in my other accelerator gets hot but is not burning my finger. |
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