08 April 2008, 00:11 | #1 |
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IDEFIX97 - missing pin on new boards
Some advice please.
I purchased two new 4-way buffered idefix97 adaptors a few months ago and have only got around to using one of them. I noticed a pin was missing from the port1 connection (pin 39 or 40?), but carried on regardless. I've tried scanning for 3 different CD drives but none showing up in the software made me wonder if i've bought a duff one. The other unopened adaptor has the same pin missing also. DDNI's recent picture shows all pins present. So.. Should I be asking for replacements and would this affect the scanning for drives? Thanks again. Attachment 16339 Last edited by Magno Boots; 17 September 2008 at 23:05. |
08 April 2008, 00:37 | #2 | |
Amiga Tomcat
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Quote:
Dave G |
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08 April 2008, 00:46 | #3 |
Amiga is my Religion
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Pin 39 would be LED driver and Pin 40 is GND. Your drives should work even without these 2 Pins.
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08 April 2008, 00:52 | #4 |
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It looks from the ATA pinout that pin 39 (the missing pin) is the DASP- signal (http://www.interfacebus.com/Design_Connector_IDE.html). This seems to be required to detect the presence of a slave device.
From one document I was just reading, if a signal is not received on DASP- then the bus assumes that no slave is present (http://www.alasir.com/books/hards/043-045.html). I'm not sure how this would affect the second bus if you are just using two master devices though (a hard drive set to master on bus 0, and a CD drive set to master on bus 1). So yes, I would either be asking for a replacement (or more likely repairing it myself). Regards Rich Last edited by Boot_WB; 08 April 2008 at 00:58. |
08 April 2008, 01:04 | #5 |
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@magno boots
I am pretty confident i can repair it if you need m8y and it will only cost postage . (and hardware pron of its installation of course!!!!) recently i replaced r0Jaws IDE header on his A1200, also if i make a horrible mistake i have a spare i can send you in its place PM me if you need me |
08 April 2008, 14:10 | #6 | |
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Impressive, most impressive..... /Darth Vader voice off |
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08 April 2008, 14:30 | #7 |
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LOL go back to your Jedi mind tricks you I think we took pics too... |
08 April 2008, 15:17 | #8 |
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A pair of pliers, a soldering iron and a pin strip of the same pitch is all you need..
Heat up the tin on the old pin from the solder side, pull it out with a pair of pliers. Pull out the new pin from your spare pin strip. Then stick the new pin in the strip on your broken board and heat the bottom of the board at the same time while pressing it in. Apply some fresh solder once you have it at the right level with the other pins. Tada. 10 minutes work. For an A1200 it takes a little longer, as you need to remove the motherboard from the bottom RF shield first. If you want to be extra meticulous, you can always clean the hole with a solder sucker after you get the broken pin out. This will make inserting the new pin a little easier as you don't have to heat the solder at the same time. Whatever you want to do. |
08 April 2008, 15:33 | #9 |
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@jope
you forgot to pause, marvel at work well done, and the important bit... taking hardware pr0n pictures... OH and the proverbial cuppa.... after all it wouldn't be English without a brew on the go (coffee is an acceptable and honoured substitute) |
08 April 2008, 21:17 | #10 |
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Thanks for the replies guys.
Thanks to Boot WB's indepth info & links I can see that this pin is important as I am connecting to a IDE/JAE adaptor which defaults as slave device. I think a return is out of the question as the purchase was seven months ago. Therefore... I will take Zetr0 up on his offer to solder a new pin in one. I will attempt the other so we can compare 'hardware pronography' PM sent and thanks to all. |
08 April 2008, 23:06 | #11 |
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@Magno Boots
Glad to be of help @Zetro I usually follow this by staggering down the stairs bleary eyed, collapsing on the sofa for a bit, wondering why the smell of soldering flux and burnt hair keeps following me around the house, and promising that I'll buy myself a mini-extractor fan and tie my hair back before my next soldering epic. |
09 April 2008, 00:12 | #12 |
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@Boot_WB
i think i would be at a loss without the yummy smell of flux and rosin following me around the house.... Mmmmmm but yes, as it gives wifie a head ache... perhaps an extractor fan might be an idea either that or she will just have to move to the other side of the house |
09 April 2008, 19:12 | #13 |
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For Magno: something i made earlier
@Magnolicious
I decided, that as it was a slow afternoon to do something that i have MENT to of DONE some what AGES ago so as its relevant, and HARDWARE PRON i figure its time to put them here. (click on to make bigger) Back 01 Back 02 Front 03 Front 04 NO MORE BENT PINS!!!! YAY!!!! mod time = 35minutes... |
09 April 2008, 19:47 | #14 |
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oh just great, maybe thats why it wont see my CD Drive I will need to pull it out later and have a look.
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10 April 2008, 00:40 | #15 |
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Mighty fine job there Zetr0.
Did you use solder paste as surely you didn't solder this by hand? The shrouded connector is a great idea. I attempted the repair on my other board (looks sort of ok) but had difficulty getting any bite on the back of the board. I will obviously post plenty of close-up pics to honour your workmanship once you've repaired the other board. Magno |
10 April 2008, 00:57 | #16 |
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@Magno Boots
thanks for the kind words my friend, I have been wanting to add shroud connectors for AGES, personally theres NO REASON there without any... bad jens... but damn good solder quality, it took me atleast 20 mins to de-solder both ports with hot air about 3-5 minutes choosing which port for which, (irony is that black one i got from my esteemed m8y R0jaws! (cheers buddy) then its was only about 5-7 minutes to hand solder (with silver bearing solder wire) the ports back... and about a minute to clean the flux off the board with soapy water FLUX, its sooooo worth the £2.50 price tag at Wilkinsons Infact I bought a 1pint bottle of LACO liquid flux for about £5... its awesome!! that will last me near enough a life time... and it has that yummy smell of pair-drops candy - sweet thingys.... mmmmm *ahem I had a lot of fun with this little bit of mod. so when you post your i will do the same m8... a black and white port if you want I will be making one more difference with the one in the pic i will be making a 1.5cm (15mm) 44pin IDE stand-off so i can plug it directly onto the a1200/a600 mother board |
10 April 2008, 01:54 | #17 |
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@Zetro - I can recommend getting hold of a couple of vetinary syringes - nice thick (~1mm diameter) needles - the type which give you nightmares.
Snip most of the needle off with pliers (you'll have to re-open the ends by turning the needles 90 degrees and pinching the aperture open again), then fill up the plunger with solder. Hey presto! Accurate flux dispenser. I also use one for solder paste, but it's not as effective, as the paste is too viscous - it's really hard work extruding the paste back out. Need a thicker syringe for this really. BTW - sounds like we have similar soldering setups - I use a Aoyue 850 hot air rework station. Worth every penny! |
10 April 2008, 04:03 | #18 |
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@Boot_WB
I believe we do indeed have identical units too, I am using an 850D+ Hot-air rework..... now that i have fixed it... being without it would be like returning to the dark ages.... oh my.... OMG Needles *Zetr0 Hides behind Jope.... ....ooo whats that your eating jope.....? |
01 May 2008, 23:54 | #19 |
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Post to say thankyou to Zetr0 for carrying out a fantastic repair on my IDEFIX board with the missing pin.
Turnaround.. two days! Cost.. nothing! I have tested it and can confirm that the missing pin was indeed stopping the miggy from finding my CDrom drives. I've tried three different devices and they have all shown up in the scans . So here's some pics to show his craft.. Enjoy.. Last edited by Magno Boots; 17 September 2008 at 23:05. |
02 May 2008, 00:28 | #20 |
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@Magno Boots
Thanks very much for the kind words my friend, I am very pleased that its all working nicely for you, i have to admit i have enjoyed this little bit of shared hackery |
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