Daewoo 1084S flyback code

rkauer · 16 July 2010, 00:49

Since I can't locate a local source for my A1084S flyback, can someone tell me the correct LOPT (aka flyback transformer) code?

I'm willing to fix mine to have another monitor for my Amigas (yeah, two are not enough).

FOL · 16 July 2010, 10:08

Quote:

Originally Posted by rkauer

Since I can't locate a local source for my A1084S flyback, can someone tell me the correct LOPT (aka flyback transformer) code?

I'm willing to fix mine to have another monitor for my Amigas (yeah, two are not enough).

Is the LOP Transistor ok? In my experience anytime the LOPT fails the LOP Transistor goes short circuit.

As for code, I used to have a comparison book. This contained every LOPT available and compatatible LOPT's. Ill try and see if I can find an online version, if no one replies with Part No.

What about this Thread, Anemos, posted the shematics, should be able to find a compatible LOPT with the LOPT code there?
http://eab.abime.net/showthread.php?t=41692

Loedown · 16 July 2010, 11:25

Oddly enough FOL, for some reason the 1084S is rather notorious for the LOPT to go S/C but it doesn't take out the horizontal drive. The exact part number is available in another thread I answered about a no go monitor, find that and you'll get the exact part number.

rkauer · 16 July 2010, 20:53

OK, can one just confirm if the correct LOPT is the HR46045?

Loedown · 17 July 2010, 10:15

http://www.hrshop.es/index.php?comma...930101&x=0&y=0

rkauer · 17 July 2010, 18:25

Thanks Loedown, the model you pointed was the Phillips one, but using the search tools of the site I located and confirmed the HR46045 is in fact the equivalent of the Daewoo 1084S-D.

Too bad the LOPT is outrageously expensive! I'll see if can buy one locally for less.

BTW: I can read/write/speak Spanish too, but my native language is Portuguese.

rkauer · 23 July 2010, 20:25

Yay!

Bought the replacement today: it only costed me R$20,00 (~£7.37). Not bad!

prowler · 23 July 2010, 20:31

Nice one, mate!

rkauer · 24 July 2010, 06:03

Too bad I can't ship those babies outside my country. I know people around the globe will like to fix their Daewoo 1084S for less money, but Brazilian post is outrageously expensive.

Pictures of the result next week!

JLPedro · 24 July 2010, 08:03

I have one 1084S-P1 (no image, high pitch sound) and an 1084S-D2 witch is starting to shift the image on top (only some lines get shifted slightly to left, all the rest is ok). I assume the first is a flyback problem (philips) and the second probably other thing but for now is fine.

Can the flyback of the P1 be replaced? If so anyone as the correct part number? Apart from the missing door panel it had a very good image and the monitor still is very good looking color.

PS: Is it a job for an amateur like me to replace the flyback or does it need more tweaks after?

Hewitson · 24 July 2010, 10:26

A flyback transformer has two settings, Focus and Screen (Voltage).

Focus must be adjusted to get the optimal picture from your CRT.

Screen must be set as per the recommendations of your monitor manufacturer. You'll need some way of measuring kV (a flyback outputs ~25kVDC).

WARNING

Make sure you discharge your monitor. I'm not going to explain how when theres hundreds of guides on the net, I willl however say that failure to do so could result in death.

JLPedro · 24 July 2010, 11:08

So it's better to leave it alone, i mean i like it but it's not "to die for" LOL!

Thanks.

Hewitson · 24 July 2010, 13:21

No, its better to fix it, just take the proper safety precautions!

There's plenty of videos on youtube on discharging monitors.

Get two alligator clips and connect them together with a wire. Put one clip around an insulated screwdriver, and the other on a suitable earth. Slip the screwdriver under the anode cap on top of the CRT, and make sure it touches the metal clip which secures the cap to the CRT. I suggest doing this at least twice.

rkauer · 24 July 2010, 22:42

BTW: don't be scared by the loud sound, it will be the arching from the metal clip under the tube insulation when discharging to hearth.

Pretty much the same as a large capacitor do when short-circuited. In fact, the tube is nothing more than a large capacitor made of thick glass with a metal mesh in one side.

16 July 2010, 00:49	#1
rkauer I hate potatos and shirts Join Date: Oct 2007 Location: Sao Leopoldo / Brazil Age: 58 Posts: 3,482	Daewoo 1084S flyback code Since I can't locate a local source for my A1084S flyback, can someone tell me the correct LOPT (aka flyback transformer) code? I'm willing to fix mine to have another monitor for my Amigas (yeah, two are not enough).

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16 July 2010, 11:25	#3
Loedown Precious & fragile things Join Date: Feb 2009 Location: Victoria, Australia Posts: 1,946	Oddly enough FOL, for some reason the 1084S is rather notorious for the LOPT to go S/C but it doesn't take out the horizontal drive. The exact part number is available in another thread I answered about a no go monitor, find that and you'll get the exact part number.

16 July 2010, 20:53	#4
rkauer I hate potatos and shirts Join Date: Oct 2007 Location: Sao Leopoldo / Brazil Age: 58 Posts: 3,482	OK, can one just confirm if the correct LOPT is the HR46045?

17 July 2010, 10:15	#5
Loedown Precious & fragile things Join Date: Feb 2009 Location: Victoria, Australia Posts: 1,946	http://www.hrshop.es/index.php?comma...930101&x=0&y=0

17 July 2010, 18:25	#6
rkauer I hate potatos and shirts Join Date: Oct 2007 Location: Sao Leopoldo / Brazil Age: 58 Posts: 3,482	Thanks Loedown, the model you pointed was the Phillips one, but using the search tools of the site I located and confirmed the HR46045 is in fact the equivalent of the Daewoo 1084S-D. Too bad the LOPT is outrageously expensive! I'll see if can buy one locally for less. BTW: I can read/write/speak Spanish too, but my native language is Portuguese.

23 July 2010, 20:25	#7
rkauer I hate potatos and shirts Join Date: Oct 2007 Location: Sao Leopoldo / Brazil Age: 58 Posts: 3,482	Yay! Bought the replacement today: it only costed me R$20,00 (~£7.37). Not bad!

23 July 2010, 20:31	#8
prowler Global Moderator Join Date: Aug 2008 Location: Sidcup, England Posts: 10,300	Nice one, mate!

24 July 2010, 06:03	#9
rkauer I hate potatos and shirts Join Date: Oct 2007 Location: Sao Leopoldo / Brazil Age: 58 Posts: 3,482	Too bad I can't ship those babies outside my country. I know people around the globe will like to fix their Daewoo 1084S for less money, but Brazilian post is outrageously expensive. Pictures of the result next week!

24 July 2010, 08:03	#10
JLPedro JLPedro Join Date: Jun 2008 Location: Coimbra, Portugal Age: 47 Posts: 95	I have one 1084S-P1 (no image, high pitch sound) and an 1084S-D2 witch is starting to shift the image on top (only some lines get shifted slightly to left, all the rest is ok). I assume the first is a flyback problem (philips) and the second probably other thing but for now is fine. Can the flyback of the P1 be replaced? If so anyone as the correct part number? Apart from the missing door panel it had a very good image and the monitor still is very good looking color. PS: Is it a job for an amateur like me to replace the flyback or does it need more tweaks after?

24 July 2010, 10:26	#11
Hewitson Registered User Join Date: Feb 2007 Location: Melbourne, Australia Age: 41 Posts: 3,773	A flyback transformer has two settings, Focus and Screen (Voltage). Focus must be adjusted to get the optimal picture from your CRT. Screen must be set as per the recommendations of your monitor manufacturer. You'll need some way of measuring kV (a flyback outputs ~25kVDC). WARNING Make sure you discharge your monitor. I'm not going to explain how when theres hundreds of guides on the net, I willl however say that failure to do so could result in death.

24 July 2010, 11:08	#12
JLPedro JLPedro Join Date: Jun 2008 Location: Coimbra, Portugal Age: 47 Posts: 95	So it's better to leave it alone, i mean i like it but it's not "to die for" LOL! Thanks.

Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)

24 July 2010, 13:21	#13
Hewitson Registered User Join Date: Feb 2007 Location: Melbourne, Australia Age: 41 Posts: 3,773	No, its better to fix it, just take the proper safety precautions! There's plenty of videos on youtube on discharging monitors. Get two alligator clips and connect them together with a wire. Put one clip around an insulated screwdriver, and the other on a suitable earth. Slip the screwdriver under the anode cap on top of the CRT, and make sure it touches the metal clip which secures the cap to the CRT. I suggest doing this at least twice.

24 July 2010, 22:42	#14
rkauer I hate potatos and shirts Join Date: Oct 2007 Location: Sao Leopoldo / Brazil Age: 58 Posts: 3,482	BTW: don't be scared by the loud sound, it will be the arching from the metal clip under the tube insulation when discharging to hearth. Pretty much the same as a large capacitor do when short-circuited. In fact, the tube is nothing more than a large capacitor made of thick glass with a metal mesh in one side.