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Old 15 June 2018, 14:17   #1061
Cloudane
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Seem to be a lot now saying you can use just submerge in oxiclean equivalent and not have to try and get peroxide which would be a lot easier! (and a lot cheaper)

Unfortunately we're now stuck with a thick layer of cloud for the foreseeable future according to the weather forecast. Typical England. Is there any point in trying if it's heavily overcast?
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Old 15 June 2018, 14:20   #1062
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You still get a tan if it's overcast, and there is still heat in the sunlight. UV, and radiant heat, is the two theories i've heard, that supposedly explains why retrobright works, or doesn't.
Might take longer to get the expected results, but it should still work.
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Old 15 June 2018, 22:29   #1063
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There wasn't much heat today, 12C... so I decided to turn my attention to some car detailing that needed cool conditions instead... naturally the sun came out after that
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Old 15 June 2018, 23:46   #1064
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Supamax is onto something there, perhaps a uv protection coating like Armor All might
help!
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Old 16 June 2018, 02:39   #1065
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Armor All, for plastic, leaves a slightly shiny film on plastic, well, as far as i have had any luck with anyway. Not something i suppose people want on their cases. At least it washes of, if you need to retro bright it again.
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Old 16 June 2018, 02:47   #1066
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But it also gives you a new car smell! haha
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Old 04 July 2018, 00:59   #1067
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Should I cover the commodore badge on the top half of my A600. I thought the peroxide might ruin it.
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Old 04 July 2018, 06:37   #1068
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Badges are generally safe with the process, but I still tend to remove the metallic ones. They are only held on by some double sided tape (some gentle heat from a hair dryer can help to loosen it up). Gently, though, don't want to bend it sharply or it won't sit flat again.
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Old 05 July 2018, 05:40   #1069
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The peroxide had no effect on the badge, thankfully. This retrobright turned out GREAT!

Before...

After!!!

Unfortunately the £ key is MIA.
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Old 05 July 2018, 05:54   #1070
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Most amiga badges are metallic, the escom ones are paper
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Old 05 July 2018, 06:30   #1071
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Very nice results Is it only the lighting or are some of the darker grey keys just a little bit cloudy? If so, probably don't want to go at least any stronger with the peroxide in the future.
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Old 05 July 2018, 08:28   #1072
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Yeah, thats cloudy from the looks of it. Not the best result from the looks of it =(

Edit: Actually, who am I to rain on your parade. If you think its great, its great =)
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Old 05 July 2018, 10:14   #1073
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All in all not an "as new" result, but a lot more presentable, and "as i remember it" then the before picture. Well worth the effort.

But... Where did the £ key go?
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Old 05 July 2018, 15:45   #1074
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I noticed the clouding when I was reassembling the keyboard. I thought maybe it was from how the sunlight was hitting them. It doesn't bother me at all though.

As for the damn £ key I have no clue where it went! It must have bounced somewhere during the whole process.
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Old 19 July 2018, 16:56   #1075
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Which peroxide solution is better? cream or liquid

Last edited by RiP; 19 July 2018 at 18:59.
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Old 19 July 2018, 17:38   #1076
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Both have peroxide (active component) but I would suggest liquid is better as its going to stay in contact consistently whereas cream can dry out, giving uneven coverage

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Old 19 July 2018, 19:01   #1077
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Well, I used 20 vol 6% cream for few hours under the sunlight (42C) but the result wasn't good.
Some scratches have been appeared, anyway to fix it?

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Old Yesterday, 06:30   #1078
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RiP View Post
Well, I used 20 vol 6% cream for few hours under the sunlight (42C) but the result wasn't good.
Some scratches have been appeared, anyway to fix it?

sometimes it's just uneven whitening due to the cream not being evenly applied. and sometimes, re-briting in a bath of liquid developer will even it out. use lower strength developer like 20 volume (or 40 volume and mix it 1:1 with water) and make sure it's the clear liquid, not the white/opaque stuff. watch it carefully so it doesn't get chalky.

and sometimes, it just doesn't work. YMMV.
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Old Yesterday, 13:29   #1079
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A friend of mine talked to someone who works at LEGO about yellowing of plastics and the guy said that it could be reversed simply by exposing the plastic to full sunlight (behind glass probably won't work since it filters some of the UV). This sounded too good to be true, but obviously I had to test it.
My first test was with a very yellowed VIC 20 case. It was so bad that it was almost brown at spots. I first washed it in the sink to remove any dirt and then I left it on a table on my balcony which is covered so it is protected from rain. Out there it would be exposed directly to sunlight from around 2pm to 8pm. After a week, I could see a slight improvement so I just left it out there. After about 4 weeks, I am happy to say that it is now >90% deyellowed and looks very close to perfect. Now I don't have any before pics, so I can't show the difference but I can promise that this really works.

I have now put a very yellowed C128D keyboard out there and after just one week I can also spot a noticeable improvement.

Now it might not work with all kinds of plastics, but I see this method as being a lot safer than using H2O2, so one might as well try it out first. The process is a lot slower, but then I also hope that it means that reyellowing will happen slower as well.
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Old Yesterday, 17:14   #1080
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Quote:
Originally Posted by demolition View Post
A friend of mine talked to someone who works at LEGO about yellowing of plastics and the guy said that it could be reversed simply by exposing the plastic to full sunlight (behind glass probably won't work since it filters some of the UV). This sounded too good to be true, but obviously I had to test it.
My first test was with a very yellowed VIC 20 case. It was so bad that it was almost brown at spots. I first washed it in the sink to remove any dirt and then I left it on a table on my balcony which is covered so it is protected from rain. Out there it would be exposed directly to sunlight from around 2pm to 8pm. After a week, I could see a slight improvement so I just left it out there. After about 4 weeks, I am happy to say that it is now >90% deyellowed and looks very close to perfect. Now I don't have any before pics, so I can't show the difference but I can promise that this really works.

I have now put a very yellowed C128D keyboard out there and after just one week I can also spot a noticeable improvement.

Now it might not work with all kinds of plastics, but I see this method as being a lot safer than using H2O2, so one might as well try it out first. The process is a lot slower, but then I also hope that it means that reyellowing will happen slower as well.
The sunlight is a cause AND a cure for yellowinG?
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