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Old 17 June 2016, 15:15   #1
spannernick
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RedskullDC - How to mod the Commodore 1351 "tank" mouse with microswitches.

Thanks to RedskullDC for allowing us to shear this step by step tutorial..



1. Remove the two phillips head screws near the cable end.
Turn the mouse over, lift the end near the cable slightly.
The top half will then slide backwards.
**Take care not to snap the clips at the rear of the top half **




2. Remove the two phillips head screws securing the PCB to the bottom half.
You may find it easier to work by removing the cable, I certainly did.
If so, desolder the ground strap and unplug the 8pin connector.



3. Desolder the offending switch(es).
The following pics only show the left mouse button being replaced, but
the principle is the same for the right mouse button



4. Suitable PCB mount microswitches. Metal levers are not required.



5. If your switches have the metal lever attached, remove it by squeezing
the end with a pair of needle-noze pliers.



6. Clip the leg *furthest* from the switch actuator with a pair of clippers/side cutters.



7. Switch ready to install.



8. Drill two 0.7-1.0mm holes as shown.
Hole furthest from the edge of the board should roughly inline with two holes.
Hole closest to the edge of the board should be slightly offset.

This may vary depending on the brand of switch you buy. Measure the hole distance up to
match your switch.

make two trace cuts as shown, isolating the land around the hole that you just made furthest
from the board edge.

Scrape away some of the insulation around both holes.



9. Shows the holes from the top side of the board.



10. Insert the new microswitch as shown (sorry about the fuzzy pic)



11. Ensure the sitch is quite flush against the board before you solder it in.
Make a link as shown by the red oval. A simple solder blob should suffice.



12. Actuator of the microswitch is roughly about 3mm higher than the original when installed.
Plastic stem behind the mouse button will need to be shortened to match.

Remove only so much that you can close the mouse (with screws) without activating the switch.

**** Better to trim in small increments and test a few times, than take too much off in one go
and ruin your mouse! ****

Cheers,
Redskull @ Digital Corruption

https://www.dropbox.com/sh/jar0901hr...Ga2OJGsba?dl=0

Last edited by spannernick; 17 June 2016 at 19:42.
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Old 17 June 2016, 16:22   #2
Daedalus
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Sounds like a good guide... But it appears the photos are private so you need to sign into Dropbox to see them.
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Old 17 June 2016, 16:25   #3
Akira
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Dude, use IMGUR.COM or host the files here.
I was going to post this but you beat me to it and now you did it all wrong.

Also please link to his profile here on EAB for credit.
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Old 17 June 2016, 19:22   #4
spannernick
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Akira View Post
Dude, use IMGUR.COM or host the files here.
I was going to post this but you beat me to it and now you did it all wrong.

Also please link to his profile here on EAB for credit.
I didn't know there would be blocked,did try to up them here but only takes 8 photos in post,I will sort it out asap,sorry about that.
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Old 17 June 2016, 19:39   #5
spannernick
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All done.. sorry about that,you should be able to see them now..
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Old 17 June 2016, 20:51   #6
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OK no it's cool, nicely done and big ups to Redskull for this awesome modification.
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Old 19 June 2016, 00:19   #7
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Really cool modification.

I suppose that using modern switches mean that the tank mouse suddenly becomes way more reactive when clicking and that one doesn't have anymore to smash the button with a brick for the presses to register?
Did you get a chance to update your switches Akira? If so, what do you think of the result?

Signed: a seriously tempted kitten.
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Old 19 June 2016, 12:40   #8
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No matter what new switch, it will start working nicely after you replace it. The microswitch in Redskull's pictures will probably last longer than the original style metal dome switch.
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