HID2AMI - *Any* HID mouse and HID gamepad to Amiga adaptor/converter

[Heywood]

There is something called the RetoPad32 which is nearly an any controller to any system swiss army knife using additional breakout boards which might be close to what Caula92 is looking for, shame it doesn't include CD32 in that mix

[sampedenawa]

...

[sampedenawa]

Just released v1.9.3 firmware update, with a minor bug fix and added support for new Speedlink Competition Pro USB sticks. Registered users should have received the update already; if not contact me and I will fix it.

[Paperboy]

Hello,
I can't find a price?

[sampedenawa]

Originally Posted by Paperboy

Hello,
I can't find a price?

Hello, not selling the boards here.


Should you be interested in buying some, find the HID2AMI thread on Amibay.
[If you are user Cyb there, I already sent you a PM]

[Paperboy]

Hi thanks for the info am not " Cyb "

[sampedenawa]

Updates:

I just released firmware update v1.9.4, with a noticeable improvement of quadrature waveform emulation/synthesis.

I discovered that all previous versions up to now suffered of a (very) stupid bug, which caused a not correct waveform to be produced.

What surprised me is that nobody (including myself !) spotted id before: with new v1.9.4 quadrature waves are correctly generated, and pointer movements are even smoother (and precise) than before.

Automatic distribution of the firmware to registered users should have been completed; should anyone miss the updated package from my distribution automated script, please advice me.

[Tex]

I'm not sure if anyone has produced a working device themselves, but I have a troubleshooting question to anyone who has. I've built the device, closely follow the instructions on GitHub and have got a licence for the app from sampedenawa. The bootloader installed and the app installed.

I've tried the device with multiple HID mice and with multiple Amigas and everything works except for the vertical axis. The buttons work, the mouse moves horizontally, but there is no vertical movement at all.

I've triple checked all the components are correct and the soldering is good. So before I start de-soldering components to test them, I'm hoping someone here has had this problem and knows a quick-fix.


EDIT: Solved the problem. Was a dry solder on the 100k pull up resistor connected to the drain on Q8.

[sampedenawa]

Forgot to update recently, but for anyone interested, I released firmware update v1.9.5.


Changelog on the usual HID2AMI's Github

[sampedenawa]

Shoud anyone be ineterested, I am accepting preorders for a new batch o prefessionally assembled adapters on Amibay (this is to keep track of requests in a single location).

All construction and assembling information (including gerbers and schemartics) are always available on the github

[dwfa]

Thanks Sampedenawa for this. I am looking to build this adapter/converter using the BOM and PCB schematic from github. But I have no idea where to source the BOM items from. I am in USA and could use a little help/nudge in finding an on-line place to source them from. I can get the PCB from PCBWay for example. Any friendly help would be appreciated.

dwfa

[Lemaru]

Digikey or Mouser is probably the best options for you in the US

[sampedenawa]

Originally Posted by dwfa

Thanks Sampedenawa for this. I am looking to build this adapter/converter using the BOM and PCB schematic from github. But I have no idea where to source the BOM items from. I am in USA and could use a little help/nudge in finding an on-line place to source them from. I can get the PCB from PCBWay for example. Any friendly help would be appreciated.

dwfa

Originally Posted by Lemaru

Digikey or Mouser is probably the best options for you in the US

All components are quite common and readily available almost everywhere (plus you have lots of equivalents; e.g you can swap the LT1117-3.3 with LD1117S33CTR; AMS1117-3.3; LM1117IMPX-3.3; LDL1117S33R; NCP1117ST33T3G, etc)


Only pay attention where you buy the STM microp; you can find tons of them on Aliexpress for small prices, but beware of fakes.


If you follow Lemaru's advice you should be full safe, though maybe you will have to pay a few $ more than sourcing from China.

[dwfa]

Thanks to both you for the response. This is my first DIY electronic project along with my first intro to retro computing :-). I think I will source this from mouser, looks promising.

I do have a question related to the C0805 caps: what voltage rating is recommended for C7 and C8? I could only find the c0805 with a 100VDC rating. Is that overkill? I found C5 with a rating of 6.3.

dwfa

[sampedenawa]

Originally Posted by dwfa

Thanks to both you for the response. This is my first DIY electronic project along with my first intro to retro computing :-). I think I will source this from mouser, looks promising.

I do have a question related to the C0805 caps: what voltage rating is recommended for C7 and C8? I could only find the c0805 with a 100VDC rating. Is that overkill? I found C5 with a rating of 6.3.

dwfa

The board works @5V ....

[dwfa]

Originally Posted by sampedenawa

The board works @5V ....

Since I am very new to this, and Iwant to learn, does that mean there will no no issues. I think it should be okay. In my head, I have a larger hose and will be running a trickle through it. So no harm, but want to make sure ...

[sampedenawa]

Originally Posted by dwfa

Since I am very new to this, and Iwant to learn, does that mean there will no no issues. I think it should be okay. In my head, I have a larger hose and will be running a trickle through it. So no harm, but want to make sure ...

Don't worry too much about component tolerance and performance limits.


The project, from hardware point of view, is really very simple and does not have critical paths to care about.


Just exercise yourself on your soldering skills and you won't have any issue on assembling a working adapter.

[dwfa]

Hi - I have done my research (as best I can), but I am missing two items the LEDSML0805. I am unable to locate them - I am sure they are there but I cannot seem to find them using either LEDSML0805 nor SML0805. I will look again. Any thoughts in the mean time?

The attachment (png) is what I found and it turns out to be ~$28 USD without tax or shipping. If I had the PCB it is about $8. Is that price about right? I have no idea.

___
Cheers!
dwfa

[sampedenawa]

Originally Posted by dwfa

Hi - I have done my research (as best I can), but I am missing two items the LEDSML0805. I am unable to locate them - I am sure they are there but I cannot seem to find them using either LEDSML0805 nor SML0805. I will look again. Any thoughts in the mean time?

The attachment (png) is what I found and it turns out to be ~$28 USD without tax or shipping. If I had the PCB it is about $8. Is that price about right? I have no idea.

___
Cheers!
dwfa

You don't need 0k res, they actually was shorted jumpers; besides they were only present in Rev 1.0.0 board, which has been subseded by updated v1.1.0


Refer to BOM for v1.1.0 here (https://github.com/EmberHeavyIndustr...v1.1.0.BOM.txt)


Regards to LEDs: any 0805 SMD LED will do (any color at your choice) !

[dwfa]

Originally Posted by sampedenawa

You don't need 0k res, they actually was shorted jumpers; besides they were only present in Rev 1.0.0 board, which has been subseded by updated v1.1.0


Refer to BOM for v1.1.0 here (https://github.com/EmberHeavyIndustr...v1.1.0.BOM.txt)


Regards to LEDs: any 0805 SMD LED will do (any color at your choice) !

Thanks for this - that is the BOM I used (v1.1) and noticed the Rev 1.0 Col. I may have misunderstood it, I thought it meant that the item in the row is optional for 1.0 build, but required for 1.1. Did I read it wrong?