Amiga 3000 Questions - Page 4

idrougge · 20 June 2016, 10:06

There's no point in getting started on your A2000 drive if you can't get hold of an A3000 eject button that matches.

Tempest 2084 · 20 June 2016, 15:11

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jope

Also please note, that there are several kinds of tall A2000 drive.. You ideally need one of the later drives, 1988/1989 or so. You should compare the drives side by side a bit first.

Hmm... I did not realize that. Maybe this isn't worth the hassle then?

Quote:

Originally Posted by idrougge

There's no point in getting started on your A2000 drive if you can't get hold of an A3000 eject button that matches.

I thought there was someone who sold them. Someone linked to a site a few posts back.

idrougge · 20 June 2016, 17:25

Have you checked if you can get hold of the button?

Tempest 2084 · 20 June 2016, 17:39

No I haven't. The second drive is a 'nice to have' but isn't really important in the long run. I'm not going to be running many disk based games on the 3000 anyway.

Phantomz · 20 June 2016, 17:49

The colour might not match, but you could always get a 3d printed eject button.

http://www.shapeways.com/product/Z3R...ionId=40830603

Tempest 2084 · 20 June 2016, 18:17

Quote:

Originally Posted by Phantomz

The colour might not match, but you could always get a 3d printed eject button.

http://www.shapeways.com/product/Z3R...ionId=40830603

Yeah so I hear, but I thought they had a minimum order of $50 or something like that. Someone said you might be able to get buttons on A1K.org but I can't find anything.

Phantomz · 20 June 2016, 19:16

Quote:

Originally Posted by Tempest 2084

Yeah so I hear, but I thought they had a minimum order of $50 or something like that.

I just tried to put one in the cart for the hell of it, I didn't see anything about minimum order of $50, I might be wrong though, maybe give it a go if you want one.

Tempest 2084 · 20 June 2016, 20:38

I think I'll wait and see if it becomes a problem. One disk drive should be plenty for now. Maybe I can find a real one down the line.

Tempest 2084 · 21 June 2016, 02:23

One more question regarding the battery. If I go the original route and replace the battery with another barrel battery (not sure I trust the disc battery now), does it matter if it's NiMH or NiCd? Also, where can you find one with three legs on it? All the ones I've seen have only two.

idrougge · 21 June 2016, 09:30

NiMH works fine. All the ones I've bought have three legs, though you only need two.

Tempest 2084 · 21 June 2016, 14:31

Quote:

Originally Posted by idrougge

NiMH works fine. All the ones I've bought have three legs, though you only need two.

Is the third leg for support or something?

I have a spare two legged 3.5V NiCd battery from when I was fixing up a clock card for a PC. Could I use that or should I stay away from NiCd due to the leaking risk?

Daedalus · 21 June 2016, 14:38

I'd avoid NiCd as it is certain to leak sooner or later. NiMH batteries rarely leak unless they're abused. The third leg is generally for stability, yes, though two legs should be fine. It's also possible to replace the battery with a non-rechargeable lithium cell by fitting a diode to protect it from charging current. Small adaptors with a footprint matching the original battery can be bought from the usual sources.

idrougge · 21 June 2016, 15:05

Quote:

Originally Posted by Tempest 2084

Is the third leg for support or something?

Yes. Both legs are connected to the same pole.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Tempest 2084

I have a spare two legged 3.5V NiCd battery from when I was fixing up a clock card for a PC. Could I use that or should I stay away from NiCd due to the leaking risk?

If it's NiCd, it's probably so old it's of no use any more.

idrougge · 21 June 2016, 15:06

Quote:

Originally Posted by Daedalus

It's also possible to replace the battery with a non-rechargeable lithium cell by fitting a diode to protect it from charging current. Small adaptors with a footprint matching the original battery can be bought from the usual sources.

If you want to do it yourself, it might be prettier to replace the charging resistor on the motherboard with a diode, since it may be tricky to mount a diode cleanly to the coin cell holder.

Tempest 2084 · 21 June 2016, 15:17

The NiCd should be good, it was new when I got it a few months ago (or so the seller said), but I might as well go with the NiMH.

So the general consensus is that those coin batteries don't provide enough voltage then? What about the two AA battery solution that I posted earlier?

EDIT: Ah he's a nice little write up. I honestly think I'm just going to go with the NiMH battery and replace it in 6-8 years: http://members.iinet.net.au/~davem2/overclock/batt.html

brett71 · 21 June 2016, 16:13

Quote:

Originally Posted by Tempest 2084

The NiCd should be good, it was new when I got it a few months ago (or so the seller said), but I might as well go with the NiMH.

So the general consensus is that those coin batteries don't provide enough voltage then? What about the two AA battery solution that I posted earlier?

EDIT: Ah he's a nice little write up. I honestly think I'm just going to go with the NiMH battery and replace it in 6-8 years: http://members.iinet.net.au/~davem2/overclock/batt.html

Just a random thought, but if someone could come up with a socket of sorts for those barrel batteries, it might make it dead simple to replace them periodically...

NMI · 21 June 2016, 16:47

I would never replace a timebomb with a new timebomb!
Personally I prefer the 2032 coin-cell, it is not without reason it is used on almost every motherboard sold today.

As the text you linked to explains the trick is to use a germanium diode, that will enable the coin-cell to give enough voltage to work for years.

Tempest 2084 · 21 June 2016, 16:48

Quote:

Originally Posted by brett71

Just a random thought, but if someone could come up with a socket of sorts for those barrel batteries, it might make it dead simple to replace them periodically...

They exist on Apple systems (at least on the IIGS and some Macs). Why they don't on the Amiga is anyone's guess.

Daedalus · 21 June 2016, 17:15

Three pins taken from a low-profile DIL socket would do the job nicely I would guess. A socket won't protect from leakage though...

Tempest 2084 · 21 June 2016, 17:26

I thought the NiMH wouldn't leak though. At least not like the NiCd.

21 June 2016, 15:17	#75
Tempest 2084 Prototype Historian Join Date: Apr 2009 Location: SE MI / USA Posts: 420	The NiCd should be good, it was new when I got it a few months ago (or so the seller said), but I might as well go with the NiMH. So the general consensus is that those coin batteries don't provide enough voltage then? What about the two AA battery solution that I posted earlier? EDIT: Ah he's a nice little write up. I honestly think I'm just going to go with the NiMH battery and replace it in 6-8 years: http://members.iinet.net.au/~davem2/overclock/batt.html Last edited by Tempest 2084; 21 June 2016 at 15:28.

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20 June 2016, 10:06	#61
idrougge Registered User Join Date: Sep 2007 Location: Stockholm Posts: 4,332	There's no point in getting started on your A2000 drive if you can't get hold of an A3000 eject button that matches.

20 June 2016, 17:25	#63
idrougge Registered User Join Date: Sep 2007 Location: Stockholm Posts: 4,332	Have you checked if you can get hold of the button?

20 June 2016, 17:39	#64
Tempest 2084 Prototype Historian Join Date: Apr 2009 Location: SE MI / USA Posts: 420	No I haven't. The second drive is a 'nice to have' but isn't really important in the long run. I'm not going to be running many disk based games on the 3000 anyway.

20 June 2016, 17:49	#65
Phantomz Registered User Join Date: Mar 2003 Location: UK Age: 51 Posts: 214	The colour might not match, but you could always get a 3d printed eject button. http://www.shapeways.com/product/Z3R...ionId=40830603

20 June 2016, 20:38	#68
Tempest 2084 Prototype Historian Join Date: Apr 2009 Location: SE MI / USA Posts: 420	I think I'll wait and see if it becomes a problem. One disk drive should be plenty for now. Maybe I can find a real one down the line.

21 June 2016, 02:23	#69
Tempest 2084 Prototype Historian Join Date: Apr 2009 Location: SE MI / USA Posts: 420	One more question regarding the battery. If I go the original route and replace the battery with another barrel battery (not sure I trust the disc battery now), does it matter if it's NiMH or NiCd? Also, where can you find one with three legs on it? All the ones I've seen have only two.

21 June 2016, 09:30	#70
idrougge Registered User Join Date: Sep 2007 Location: Stockholm Posts: 4,332	NiMH works fine. All the ones I've bought have three legs, though you only need two.

21 June 2016, 14:38	#72
Daedalus Registered User Join Date: Jun 2009 Location: Dublin, then Glasgow Posts: 6,334	I'd avoid NiCd as it is certain to leak sooner or later. NiMH batteries rarely leak unless they're abused. The third leg is generally for stability, yes, though two legs should be fine. It's also possible to replace the battery with a non-rechargeable lithium cell by fitting a diode to protect it from charging current. Small adaptors with a footprint matching the original battery can be bought from the usual sources.

21 June 2016, 16:47	#77
NMI Registered User Join Date: Feb 2012 Location: Sweden Posts: 43	I would never replace a timebomb with a new timebomb! Personally I prefer the 2032 coin-cell, it is not without reason it is used on almost every motherboard sold today. As the text you linked to explains the trick is to use a germanium diode, that will enable the coin-cell to give enough voltage to work for years.

21 June 2016, 17:15	#79
Daedalus Registered User Join Date: Jun 2009 Location: Dublin, then Glasgow Posts: 6,334	Three pins taken from a low-profile DIL socket would do the job nicely I would guess. A socket won't protect from leakage though...

21 June 2016, 17:26	#80
Tempest 2084 Prototype Historian Join Date: Apr 2009 Location: SE MI / USA Posts: 420	I thought the NiMH wouldn't leak though. At least not like the NiCd.

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