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Old 28 December 2020, 11:29   #1
Chris_hod
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1084S-D Repair

Hi All! I was recently asked to try and repair a 1084 monitor. Power switch had gone so I've replaced that but the main fault is the screen dims after being on for approx 5mins. I can still just about make out the picture.

I've replaced all the caps on the heater board and reflowed all joints there as well as I figured that's where a lot of drying out would occur but alas the fault remains. I've had suggested that it may need the flyback replacing but from what I've seen when those go the screen tends to not come on at all and it makes a noticeable noise. Not to mention how hard these are to get hold of.

Anyone else had similar faults before and found the culprit? Any other caps I could turn attention to?

TIA
Chris
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Old 28 December 2020, 11:47   #2
lesta_smsc
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Not sure if you've replaced this particular capacitor but there is a filter capacitor near rectifier diode on CRTs. If they start under performing the voltage output drops and the picture is dim. It may not show as blown but checking voltage will let you know if it's a problem.
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Old 28 December 2020, 12:12   #3
cdh
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You might also try walking the board with a can of freeze spray to see if you can isolate the component(s).
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Old 28 December 2020, 13:59   #4
Chris_hod
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Originally Posted by lesta_smsc View Post
Not sure if you've replaced this particular capacitor but there is a filter capacitor near rectifier diode on CRTs. If they start under performing the voltage output drops and the picture is dim. It may not show as blown but checking voltage will let you know if it's a problem.
Thanks I'll check this out!
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Old 28 December 2020, 14:02   #5
Chris_hod
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You might also try walking the board with a can of freeze spray to see if you can isolate the component(s).
I've seen this done but I don't really understand how it works/what it does? If I spray a component that's defective the screen could brighten? I'm a novice when it comes to CRT's unfortunately...
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Old 09 January 2021, 04:39   #6
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Thanks I'll check this out!
Any luck?
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Old 09 January 2021, 14:51   #7
Toni Wilen
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Does heater also dim (yellowish light coming from neck of the tube) when display darkens? If it does, it probably is bad connection (or bad capacitor) between tube pins and power supply.
EDIT: Picture size stays the same when it darkens?
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Old 16 January 2021, 07:47   #8
cdh
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I've seen this done but I don't really understand how it works/what it does? If I spray a component that's defective the screen could brighten? I'm a novice when it comes to CRT's unfortunately...
Yes, you mentioned that the screen will dim after approximately 5 minutes. What you'd be hunting for with the freeze spray is if a component or solder joint is cooled back to a cold power-on state, does the display go back to being bright. So, you can walk the components on the board, one-by-one, until you find the area where cooling it makes a difference. From there, you can try tapping that component with something non-conductive to see if it's a solder joint issue or the component itself is bad.

If freeze spray isn't available, most cheap air duster cans can be flipped upside down and be used like freeze spray.
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Old 29 January 2021, 17:06   #9
Chris_hod
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Originally Posted by Toni Wilen View Post
Does heater also dim (yellowish light coming from neck of the tube) when display darkens? If it does, it probably is bad connection (or bad capacitor) between tube pins and power supply.
EDIT: Picture size stays the same when it darkens?
Yeah the heater stays bright when the picture darkens and the picture still fills the screen.
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Old 29 January 2021, 17:13   #10
Chris_hod
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Yes, you mentioned that the screen will dim after approximately 5 minutes. What you'd be hunting for with the freeze spray is if a component or solder joint is cooled back to a cold power-on state, does the display go back to being bright. So, you can walk the components on the board, one-by-one, until you find the area where cooling it makes a difference. From there, you can try tapping that component with something non-conductive to see if it's a solder joint issue or the component itself is bad.

If freeze spray isn't available, most cheap air duster cans can be flipped upside down and be used like freeze spray.
Cheers for the explanation!

Looks like this is my next step, I replaced all the caps that handle the mains power on the main board and it's still not helped.
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Old 22 February 2021, 20:48   #11
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Update/further question. So I've tried going round the board with freezer spray and found nothing. Last desperate attempt to repair is replace the LOPT. My question is can I replace with an equivalent or does it have to be a like for like? There's a DCF1580 fitted but I've got a MSH1FCT31 which I know is an alternative for this monitor. Anyone know?
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Old 23 February 2021, 13:18   #12
alexh
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There is a very knowledgeable guy over on Amibay called Roy Bates, his knowledge is so good I started to think he might have been a TV engineer

https://www.amibay.com/member.php?4968-roy_bates
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