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Old 10 March 2009, 04:04   #21
Akira
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Originally Posted by rkauer View Post
Maybe this helps as a suggestion.

I used a pair of "pc chipset coolers", available at most computer stores.
Dude, i', totally going to do that
would the heatsinks melt the trapdoor, though?
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Old 10 March 2009, 05:56   #22
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Nope.

I also had drilled the trapdoor cover to make the heatsinks protrude through it and used four silicone "feet" glued under the original ones to make a bit more clearance.
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Old 10 March 2009, 13:06   #23
PowerPie5000
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It would be a nice idea if a cooling base was available (not sure if one exists?) similar to the ones available for laptop's, but built to fit the base of an A1200 with the trapdoor left off

Its funny how fast technology has evolved talking about heat-sinks and fans for a 50mhz cpu that can get hotter than a high performance Core 2 cpu with ghz's of more ooomph!!
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Old 10 March 2009, 16:31   #24
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ANY type of cooling you do for your Blizzard card will be beneficial to both the card and you Miggy !!
my Blizzard MKIII 030@50 has a thin heat sink on the cpu and I also put a small fan at the top of the case to induce some airflow through the system...works great
oh ya..I also drilled some holes through the trapdoor cover..
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Old 10 March 2009, 19:38   #25
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I agree with rkauer and Novacoder that is the better way to do it. With trap door left off. You'll need to use some that keeps the card flat inside. rkauer are you using sticky tape ? Would have thought it might damage the board tracks, or is the board smooth on the reverse side.
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Old 10 March 2009, 20:30   #26
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Nope.

I also had drilled the trapdoor cover to make the heatsinks protrude through it and used four silicone "feet" glued under the original ones to make a bit more clearance.
So you can't leave the trapdoor untouched? I would like to leave it as is.

Also, about case fans.. I have one on the case taking air form the miggy to the outside. is this better than pouring air inside?
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Old 10 March 2009, 21:26   #27
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Also, about case fans.. I have one on the case taking air form the miggy to the outside. is this better than pouring air inside?
yes, its always better to extract air esp hot. rather than push it around inside,
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Old 10 March 2009, 23:20   #28
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I agree with rkauer and Novacoder that is the better way to do it. With trap door left off. You'll need to use some that keeps the card flat inside. rkauer are you using sticky tape ? Would have thought it might damage the board tracks, or is the board smooth on the reverse side.
I use a small dab of non-caustic silicon on the runner to keep my card stable with the trap-door removed.
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Old 11 March 2009, 00:05   #29
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Also, about case fans.. I have one on the case taking air form the miggy to the outside. is this better than pouring air inside?
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yes, its always better to extract air esp hot. rather than push it around inside,
I disagree. A fan extracting air from inside the case will cause negative pressure inside, which will suck in air (and with it dust) through any gap it can find, including ports, floppy drive, etc.

IMO it is far better to have a fan which incorporates a dust filter pushing air into the case from outside. This will create a positive pressure inside the case which will make sure no dust enters via any place it's not wanted.

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Old 11 March 2009, 01:22   #30
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I use a small dab of non-caustic silicon on the runner to keep my card stable with the trap-door removed.
non-caustic silicon sealant, a good idea.
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Old 11 March 2009, 02:00   #31
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As I said, I cut two square holes on the trapdoor. Enough to expose the heatsinks to the outside.

They are glued to the CPU/FPU with thermal take adhesive (not the permanent one, obviously).

The silicone rubber feet are the type easily findable on furniture shops: small enough to not ruin the Amiga visual and tall enough to avoid the heatsinks to touch the desk.
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Old 11 March 2009, 14:31   #32
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I disagree. A fan extracting air from inside the case will cause negative pressure inside, which will suck in air (and with it dust) through any gap it can find, including ports, floppy drive, etc.

IMO it is far better to have a fan which incorporates a dust filter pushing air into the case from outside. This will create a positive pressure inside the case which will make sure no dust enters via any place it's not wanted.

prowler
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i can see your point of view
there are pros and con`s which ever way you choose, you pays your money and takes your choice.
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Old 11 March 2009, 15:00   #33
ungi
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I am using the 1230/IV for ages (15 yrs?) without any modifications...
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Old 11 March 2009, 18:44   #34
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I am using the 1230/IV for ages (15 yrs?) without any modifications...
I'm using the Blizzard 1230/IV with 16 MB from 2003, last 2 years with FPU. The use was intensive especially in the past where I left my A1200 switched on continuosly for 3-4 days too. Like you I use it without modification. I can understand someone want to be cautious, but please consider that Phase5 manufactured it without FAN and did not recommend to user, in the included manual, no ventilation method. If there were risks, surely the manufacturer would have provided. Infact, for what I know, all 040 boards come with FAN. The faster 060 boards don't have it, probably because they don't require it.

I believe that probably here we are talking about excessive caution.
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Old 12 March 2009, 02:14   #35
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@ungi

I see you are in Europe, unfortunately for example in Oz things do get quite hot and can't really compare when ambient temperature is so different. We once had a Blaupunkt TV that always failed in the Oz summer, though I am sure it would have been fine in Europe.

@fc.studio

Yes, it is all about excessive caution. I don't need to run the card with the trapdoor cover removed, but I do so as otherwise the whole desk heats up worried about burn marks on the desk! It also seems it may have been hotter after adding the SCSI Kit which lies on top.

@ppl wondering why to use extra cooling

Electronics are made to operate well beyond the high temperatures we see, but as this equipment is quite rare, isn't it better safe than sorry? There have been plenty of examples where the stock fan supplied by the manufacturer was not good enough with very small margin for overheating, or that the component fails in a relatively short time. Manufacturers also take into account cost and therefore may supply substandard parts (not just limited to capacitors).

A great example for Amigas, would one really want to operate a CVPPC or BVPPC in 40 degree weather in a desktop case with 100% usage pommelling it for days on end? Want to test how long it will last? These cards were not supplied with a heatsink by the manufacturer. And don't forget the stupid air vents for the PSU fan for the cost-cut A4000 "PC" case.
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Old 12 March 2009, 04:03   #36
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@ungi

I see you are in Europe, unfortunately for example in Oz things do get quite hot and can't really compare when ambient temperature is so different. We once had a Blaupunkt TV that always failed in the Oz summer, though I am sure it would have been fine in Europe.
Same here, i had many heat-related issues in Argentina whereas the same hardware, somewhere else, would have worked fine.

Easiest fail, PSU fail for overheating.

Now that I have a choice, I simply DON'T USE hardware like my Amiga in summer.

My system temperature dropped a lot, too, when I replaced the internal HD for a CF-IDE device. I recommend this upgrade.
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Old 12 March 2009, 07:17   #37
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Don't know about heat like that. With an accelerator board i had at first with the cover left on. It distorted the cover (bent it). I did get a new one at the time, but decided not to fit it and ruin it. By cutting holes in it or acelrator heat bending it again. I do recommend leaving the trap door off with lots of heat, even if you don't use any cooler.

The stand of feet your talking about can be found in diy shops and £ $ € bargain type shops and similar. I didn't try the non-caustic silicon sealant but would be good for others to hear of those that have used this. To keep the board safe from dropping down from the weight of the board.

Feet i would still think is more safe than non-caustic silicon sealant. Both maybe good for those time you need to raise up the amiga. With feet alone the board still can droop, anytime the amiga is raised for cleaning etc.
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