Project: Retrogaming joystick for the masses

[Daedalus]

Haha, I was actually thinking of the case screws, not the stick screws, but both hidden would be better!

As for hiding screws, if the material's thick enough you can countersink them.

[Swevicus]

I could do I've come back from my holiday, so it's time for me to actually do something (starting tomorrow).

[Swevicus]

I've just figured out how to wire up the harness on the Seimitsu LS-32-01-SC joystick to the contacts on the 9-pin joystick cable:

1. Orange - Ground
2. Green - Up
3. Black - Down
4. Red - Left
5. Yellow - Right

If you're thinking of using a Sanwa JLF, then reverse the pinout either by using a Sanwa JLF-H cable or rotate the Seimitsu H5P by 180 degrees. I got a new enclosure (198 * 112 * 64 mm), and I have narrowed it down to three possible designs (in the image below):

Upper left - Tabletop style. Lower left - Arcade stick style. Right - Handheld style.

[Swevicus]

OK, I have a slightly dumb question, but I think it needs asking: Can I turn the autofire switch (which I salvaged from the dissected Cheetah 125+ joystick) into a dedicated momentary button (push the button = AF on, release it = AF off)? I have an idea how it might have to be done (desolder the switch and wire up a Sanwa/Seimitsu push button to the ON terminal and ground), I just want some confirmation that I'm doing it right and I'm not going to screw up.

[PortuguesePilot]

I like the lower left design.

[Swevicus]

Thank you. That may very well be the design I am aiming for unless my mind nags me enough to change it.

[Swevicus]

I... am... an idiot. I've definitely ordered the wrong parts (Seimitsu LS-32 and PS-14-G buttons). Having tried both Seimitsu and Sanwa, I've got a slight preference for the Sanwa JLF. As for the buttons - not sure... Sanwa OBSF series activate at the slightest touch (like Cherry MX Red switches on mechanical keyboards, which is what my keyboard has), while Seimitsu PS-14-G ones remind me of the PlayStation Namco Arcade Stick buttons. For a Competition Pro/Zipstik/TAC 2/Powerplay Cruiser style... I think the Sanwa might be a more appropriate choice overall - after all, it's a bloody Atari controller, not a fighting stick worth at least £100. I'm really sorry, guys... looks like I'll have to burn through my wallet again.

[Swevicus]

I've made a terrible mistake (in addition to buying the wrong parts). I've just realised that I don't know how to wire up quick-connect (crimp) terminals.

[eXeler0]

@Swevicus at least this project is a good learning experience for you. Some ppl prefer to work more on the theory before doing the hands on stuff, others, like you dive right into it. Either way, you learn a lot from it.


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[Higgy]

Originally Posted by Swevicus

I've made a terrible mistake (in addition to buying the wrong parts). I've just realised that I don't know how to wire up quick-connect (crimp) terminals.

Have you a soldering iron?
Just scratch the terminal on the buttons a few times and place some solder onto it (I found scratching the surface gave the solder a better contact), then solder your wires directly onto the terminal.

This is what I have done with my bartop arcades. The wires I use are not very thick so they are a little like 'a stick in a bucket' when you are crimping them into the connectors. So I find a solder connection works better.
237

[Daedalus]

If you're careful you can also solder wires onto crimp terminals so they are secure and also easily removed for replacing the switch. But soldering directly onto the terminals will work fine.

[Swevicus]

I've just had a thought: Who would prefer square buttons (Zipstik-style) and who would prefer normal circular buttons (every other joystick)?

[PortuguesePilot]

I prefer round buttons.

[Swevicus]

OK, round buttons it is - standard 30mm Japanese arcade ones.

[Swevicus]

Now I just have to figure out how to turn the autofire switch on the circuit into a momentary button (similar to the Competition Pro Star) and I think I can get building.

[Daedalus]

Do you mean so that it's only active when the main fire button is pressed? Just put the circuit in series with the button. It looks like the circuit you have is already set up for that sort of operation. Or do you mean having a separate fire button that always uses autofire? If you tell me exactly what functions you want each button to do at each position of the switch, I'm sure I can help you out.

[Swevicus]

I'd prefer a separate fire button that uses autofire (like the Competition Pro Star and the Emax/Euromax Arcade Professional and the Amiga Action Pad by Logic 3). If that's too complex, then I'll just stick with the standard "autofire in series with the fire button" mode, which is what I've got before me. Once I've got the 1-button version perfected, I'll start work on the 2-button version (either with a Sega Master System controller or an Amiga Hyperpad... if I can find one).

[Daedalus]

In its simplest form, you could just wire the autofire button in series with the circuit, and both in parallel with the standard fire button. You could then repurpose the switch to be in parallel with the autofire button to give you an autofire hold (on constantly).

[Swevicus]

OK, I can see how that might be accomplished. Wiring it in series looks simple enough (wire one terminal on the button to the contact point on the autofire circuit and the other terminal to the ground wire). Wiring in parallel might take a little longer to figure out (I'm assuming it involves wiring one terminal of the desired button to the ON position of the autofire switch and the other terminal to either the fire button's contact point or the ground wire). I will need to think about this.

[Daedalus]

Well, here's an example circuit that might be of help... It's sometimes tricky to explain these things without a diagram