18 March 2014, 00:52 | #1 |
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Another user with a bad 1084S-D2
Hey, I know there's quite a few threads from others that've had similar issues, but what do I do to repair a 1084S-D2 (American model) that's got this problem?
This pic was taken from a Sega Genesis via composite output. Back in 2010, it was in storage for about two months before being retrieved. Since pulling out of storage, this has happened. Given how it's still a monitor I want to use for retro purposes, (even if it has to be sent so someone locally) what do I need in order to restore it back to proper condition? |
18 March 2014, 01:46 | #2 |
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Did you knock it when you got it out of storage, it almost looks like a shadow mask problem?
Capacitors for sure. |
18 March 2014, 07:57 | #3 |
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Blessing in disguise. Throw the thing away and get yourself a decent CRT.
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18 March 2014, 08:04 | #4 |
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It looks like vertical collapse but the beam landing shows it to be otherwise, why I asked about knocking it.
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18 March 2014, 08:28 | #5 |
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Does image geometry or color alignment (which is totally messed up in your image) change if you gently whack the monitor while it is turned on? This is the quickest way to see if tube has internal damage
If it turns off or display blanks temporarily or brightness changes or similar: it usually means there is bad connections or circuit board damage. It looks like internal tube damage (=can't be repaired), possibly shadow mask or electron gun assembly has moved. I agree that it looks like it was dropped. Do you see any obvious outside impact damage? Electronic problem can't cause unaligned primary colors in CRTs, it is always mechanical. EDIT: Take a photo when full white screen is shown (for example KS 1.x insert disk screen if you have A500), it should show clearly how bad (or not that bad) the color misalignment is. |
18 March 2014, 10:17 | #6 |
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looks like a horizontal partial collapse.
dont go inside the set without discharging the screen. |
18 March 2014, 10:18 | #7 |
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No, this display was meticulously-handled when put into storage and then taken out. I have been careful of all of my CRTs whenever I transport them. Also, hitting it (at least with my hands) did nothing. The best I could do for a white pic was showing Combat from the Atari 2600 in B/W Mode (which can cycle to a pure white background).
I have two other displays I can use. One being an NEC XM 2960 (but switches between 288p and 576i as slowly as an XRGB-Mini), and an RCA Dimensia television model RVM2730 (I think the Thomson CTC140 chassis accepts RGB input). Hewitson, outside of a Sony PVM/BVM, know of a "decent CRT" one can pick up in the States affordibly with RGB input? |
18 March 2014, 10:36 | #8 |
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they are repairable dont bin it...
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18 March 2014, 10:43 | #9 |
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I prefer not to if possible. The only thing, is if it has shadowmask damage like Toni said it may have..
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18 March 2014, 10:46 | #10 |
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Geometry problem (it is horizontal, not vertical!) probably is horizontal scanning fault (caps?) but it won't explain very badly misaligned primary colors. It shouldn't affect color alignment at all.
Perhaps geometry rings at the end of tube have become loose? Does color alignment or geometry change with brightness level? |
18 March 2014, 10:48 | #11 |
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see if there is a tv repair shop in your area,someone who deals with crt's.
it probably wont be something you can fix.(not without going inside the set) |
18 March 2014, 11:12 | #12 |
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I think if you lay it face down you will hear a clink from inside the picture tube.
The nature of the beam landing faulty on different guns in different directions pretty much indicates a bad shadow mask, I don't recall ever being able to get that much movement from adjusting the purity rings. Keep in mind too that back in the day they used to put a stripe of paint down the rings to make sure they didn't come loose. |
18 March 2014, 11:43 | #13 |
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Toni, I will have to check when I get home at around 2:30am (GMT -5). Working two shifts today.
Loedown: just odd this happened for being stored and transported so carefully. When it went into storage, it worked beautifully. No issues with convergeance or deflection. I have been trying to find a TV repair shop around Orlando that still works on CRTs. |
18 March 2014, 13:21 | #14 |
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18 March 2014, 14:59 | #15 |
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Hmm, and the component input can accept PAL signals just fine? Am curious, because I wanted to use the 1084 as a small arcade monitor as well (and many arcade games are under 60Hz refresh). The reason I ask, because my A1200 is a PAL-native unit (but it has an American power supply).
Last edited by NightSprinter; 18 March 2014 at 15:06. |
18 March 2014, 21:48 | #16 |
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Ok, so relayed some info to a local friend from what all of you have said (he fixed two of his own CRT displays). He said the color issues were not shadow mask damage. May see what he can do.
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18 March 2014, 23:09 | #17 |
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Get back to us about this, I will be keen to know what he finds.
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21 March 2014, 20:18 | #18 |
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My first guess might be that the yoke has been knocked loose, but let's stay tuned.
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27 March 2014, 12:48 | #19 | |
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Quote:
I still love the 1084S for the C64. I have a Sony PVM but one of the older ones with no s-video sadly. It looks awesome using RGB though. And yes, to the OP. Don't throw it out, these things are great. I've got 2 broken ones here that I plan on getting fixed at some point. |
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27 March 2014, 13:14 | #20 |
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They're a FAR better CRT than any of the Philips or Daewoo monitors, which weren't great even when they were brand new. The picture on mine is just as good if not better than a Trinitron.
I love Commodore as much as anyone but just because the monitors say Commodore on them doesn't make them good. It does make me laugh that people pay money to have them repaired instead of getting a good CRT for nothing though. It's a bit like paying for a Mitsubishi Sigma when someone's offering you a Ferrari for free. |
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