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Old 24 February 2008, 03:42   #1
webmany
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One last try to fix my A3000

I have managed to kill my A3000. I was working on putting in a cyberstorm, and could not get it to work. I removed it and set the jumpers back to internal and now all I get is a constant reboot.

The power led flashes quickly, then I get a yellow screen and it reboots.

Any ideas what I should be checking?

Here is some other things done:
All jumpers appear to be set correctly. Daughter board was installed, and chips are seated. Tried another power supply. All the same result. The power light blinks quickly, then slowly and I get a yellow screen

Tried second power supply, no help.
Keyboard light goes on when turned on, then off. Nothing else.
Rechecked the jumpers
made sure HD and floppy connected properly
tried different daughter board
checked pins on bottom of motherboard to make sure none are bent into each other.
check the chips to make sure they are fully seated

I also tried with a 3640 board connected. When it is connected I get a grey screen, but still no boot.

The power light blinks fast when the yellow screen is up, then slowly then the system appears to reset.


Here is that the jumpers are set to:
J851 - 2-3
J103 - 3-4
J100 - 1-2
J104 - 1-2
J102 - 2-3
J151 - 1-2
J152 - 1-2
J852 - 2-3
j350 - 2-3
J352 - 2-3

Zip chips in slots:
U852, U850, U853, U851, U856, U854, U857, U855 (I think, can't read middle number)

Roms are V40.68
Sticker on second rom is missing

Board is a B2 Rev 9/03

Battery was removed awhile ago. There was minor leaking that was cleaned up. No holes in the motherboard.
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Old 24 February 2008, 08:31   #2
coze
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Quote:
Originally Posted by webmany View Post

Roms are V40.68
Sticker on second rom is missing

does this mean the window is open ?
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Old 24 February 2008, 12:00   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by webmany View Post
I get a yellow screen
Bad/dead memory chips perhaps?

PZ.
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Old 24 February 2008, 14:57   #4
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There's a good load of information here http://amiga.serveftp.net/A3000_Hard...-problems.html that may hold the answer for you

Dave G
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Old 25 February 2008, 01:30   #5
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Yes, you can see in the window
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Old 25 February 2008, 01:57   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by webmany View Post
Yes, you can see in the window
UV light erases ROMS, that's why the window needs to be covered.

It probably survived because it was in the dark case, but once you opened it up, bam

Sounds like a new set of ROMs should get her kicking again.

PZ.
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Old 25 February 2008, 03:49   #7
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G'day. Please check if the motherboard crystal is pushed firmly down in its socket. When I was fitting/removing my Trex board the same problem happened with the constant reboot with yellow screen.

I had bumped the crystal and it had come loose. Firmly pushing it back down fixed it

Az
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Old 25 February 2008, 06:30   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fingerlickin_B View Post
UV light erases ROMS, that's why the window needs to be covered.

It probably survived because it was in the dark case, but once you opened it up, bam

Sounds like a new set of ROMs should get her kicking again.

PZ.
That is very unlikely. You have to expose an EPROM to a very strong UV light for 5-10 minutes to erase it. If this type of light existed in the computer room he would have bad burns and be partially blind in a hurry!

Even if you leave them out in the sun all day, it will not usually erase them. I hoped this was the case years ago, but it never worked- I had to get a UV eraser.
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Old 25 February 2008, 06:55   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by r.cade View Post
Even if you leave them out in the sun all day, it will not usually erase them.
Really? Ok, I'm really anal about keeping the windows covered...guess I overdo it then...

PZ.
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Old 25 February 2008, 11:17   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by webmany View Post
I have managed to kill my A3000. I was working on putting in a cyberstorm, and could not get it to work. I removed it and set the jumpers back to internal and now all I get is a constant reboot.

The power led flashes quickly, then I get a yellow screen and it reboots.

Any ideas what I should be checking?

Here is some other things done:
All jumpers appear to be set correctly. Daughter board was installed, and chips are seated. Tried another power supply. All the same result. The power light blinks quickly, then slowly and I get a yellow screen

Tried second power supply, no help.
Keyboard light goes on when turned on, then off. Nothing else.
Rechecked the jumpers
made sure HD and floppy connected properly
tried different daughter board
checked pins on bottom of motherboard to make sure none are bent into each other.
check the chips to make sure they are fully seated

I also tried with a 3640 board connected. When it is connected I get a grey screen, but still no boot.

The power light blinks fast when the yellow screen is up, then slowly then the system appears to reset.


Here is that the jumpers are set to:
J851 - 2-3
J103 - 3-4
J100 - 1-2
J104 - 1-2
J102 - 2-3
J151 - 1-2
J152 - 1-2
J852 - 2-3
j350 - 2-3
J352 - 2-3

Zip chips in slots:
U852, U850, U853, U851, U856, U854, U857, U855 (I think, can't read middle number)

Roms are V40.68
Sticker on second rom is missing

Board is a B2 Rev 9/03

Battery was removed awhile ago. There was minor leaking that was cleaned up. No holes in the motherboard.
Hi

i got that problem to the same that you have

and om myn a3000 there whas 1 zip ram not good
i have pull all the zip out of myn a3000 and started to build the simm-folie for the a3000d's and i have no problem any more works great the machine run like a train

i have still 1 simm-folie for sell on myn little web-store

you can try to pull the zip out and file the fisrt 8 dip-bank ram on your 3000 to test if the a3000 will boot with 1mb fats men the bank you can find it on the front where the zip located thats from U851D to U857D

have fun
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Old 25 February 2008, 12:43   #11
coze
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Quote:
Originally Posted by r.cade View Post
That is very unlikely. You have to expose an EPROM to a very strong UV light for 5-10 minutes to erase it. If this type of light existed in the computer room he would have bad burns and be partially blind in a hurry!

Even if you leave them out in the sun all day, it will not usually erase them. I hoped this was the case years ago, but it never worked- I had to get a UV eraser.
it doesn't have to be totally erased. Even one bit erased means kickstart is bummed. This is not difficult to happen, even a few seconds of contact with sunlight is enough. To totally erase them you need a UV eraser though.
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Old 26 February 2008, 00:39   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by coze View Post
it doesn't have to be totally erased. Even one bit erased means kickstart is bummed. This is not difficult to happen, even a few seconds of contact with sunlight is enough. To totally erase them you need a UV eraser though.
I will continue treating mine like vampires then

PZ.
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Old 27 February 2008, 01:22   #13
webmany
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Tried replacing the kickstart roms with no change. I have a second a3000 that I swapped the ZIP memory with and still no joy. All chips are seated. The clock crystals are soldered in and look fine.
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Old 27 February 2008, 01:55   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by davideo View Post
There's a good load of information here http://amiga.serveftp.net/A3000_Hard...-problems.html that may hold the answer for you

Dave G
This information suggests a couple of problems -

YELLOW SCREEN = The CPU has found an error before the error trapping software (Guru) has been activated.
Also caused when the Zorro riser card is not fitted (OS2.x and 3.x requires the A3000 Zorro riser to be fitted).

and

White boot screen, but resets continuously

The power supply generates a 50Hz timing "tick" (or 60Hz for America) which is received by CIA U350 for use as an accurate time reference.
If this signal is not present, the computer will enter a continuous cycle of booting to a white screen then resetting.
This can be the case when a 3rd party power supply is used (e.g. an AT power supply) which does not provide the timing tick, or if the standard A3000 power supply develops a fault.
To get around this problem, move motherboard jumper J350 from TIC to VSYNC. VSYNC is derived from the motherboard crystal oscillators, so is not as stable as the mains power supply frequency. Using VSYNC instead of AC mains synchronisation can lead to the system time running fast or slow when the computer is running. The correct time will be restored when the system is rebooted, as the time is re-read from the battery backed real time clock during startup.

Dave G
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Old 27 February 2008, 03:34   #15
webmany
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The riser card is in and seated correctly. The VSYNC did not make any difference.

The power light flashes slowly 6 times, then quickly 8 times twice in a row. At this point the system restarts.

Is there something I can read on the light blinks?
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Old 29 February 2008, 01:41   #16
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Have also tried removing extra chip ram and swapping CIA chips, but still no change
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Old 29 February 2008, 01:44   #17
davideo
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Quote:
Originally Posted by webmany View Post
The riser card is in and seated correctly. The VSYNC did not make any difference.

The power light flashes slowly 6 times, then quickly 8 times twice in a row. At this point the system restarts.

Is there something I can read on the light blinks?

I've been nosing around the Web but I haven't found anything yet on the power light blink

I've just found this thread on here http://eab.abime.net/showthread.php?...ht=power+light that suggests that it could be bad Rom. I know you've swapped them once but have you got another set you could try? Just in case!!

Dave G

Last edited by davideo; 29 February 2008 at 02:00. Reason: Adding extra information
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Old 29 February 2008, 06:51   #18
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This is what I found on the blinking power light. Does not cover the A3000, but may help other people. It is from a news group posting from 1992:

A500
1) no mouse movements
a) replace burnt EMI401 (1.0 ohm 1/4 watt resistor)
2) flaky computer
a) do the 2N3906 kludge
b) check main computer shield shorting behind disk drive
c) Check solder joints on power socket
d) flaky internal disk drive power cord
e) check for bent chip pins and for bent connector pins
f) check keyboard assembly for flakes
3) Power Supply (PN 312503-05)
a) pin1 +5V 4.5A
b) pin2 shield gnd __ __
c) pin3 +12V 1A |3 \/4 |
d) pin4 signal gnd | 5 | Looking into the plug end
e) pin5 -12V .1A |2___1_|
4) Green Screen; 10 short 1 long power LED blink
a) clean and re-insert Agnus chip
5) flaky keyboard assembly with spurious characters or crash with
CAPLOCK LED blink
a) replace keyboard and tell customer of possiblity of a serial
device being connected to the parallel connector
A1000
1) fast steady power LED blink; dark screen
a) 74S51 (U9I) & 74F74 (U8I); Damaged from expansion port
2) no parallel output
a) 8520
b) PAULA
3) Goes thru diagnostic blinks but no Kick icon
a) Check for internal disk drive "track-zeroing" movement
4) Dead
a) check that expansion shield fingers aren't bent to mother
board
5) Check for bent connector pins
6) no serial
a) check MC1488 & MC1489
b) check PAULA
7) Bad mouse or joy stick movements
a) check 74LS157
b) check 8520's
A2000 (see also A500 & A1000 & A2500 for hints)
1) Red screen; power LED blinks 9 short 1 long continuously
a) bad ram with open
2) Dark blank screen on power-up; LED dim
a) BUSTER
3) System time erratic
a) check for noise on TICK line; CBM modification to power supply
4) Bad mouse movements
a) 8520
b) clean mouse
c) broken wires in mouse cord
d) bad 74LS157 (U202)
5) First character from keyboard missing after power-up
a) cut out C910 & C911; CBM modification
6) Fuzzy video
a) remove a turn from the ferrite beads on the RGB lines
7) White screen; no Workbench Icon; LED bright
a) No power to PAULA; R200 (1 ohm resistor) burnt
8) intermittent guru's
a) Bad contacts on BridgeBoard (card edge or chips or bus-timing)
b) Virus use KV and Sentry program
c) Bad program(s)
d) Bad ram expansion board with flaky 150ns ram (should be
100ns);
AMIGA 25000 (twenty-five thousand) 2MEG board is FLAKY
e) use TestMem by Bruce's repair to find bad bits
f) CHECK THE CLOCK SIGNALS with scope for proper voltage levels
9) No Red in RGB only (new unit)
a) bad solder joint or bad trace under board at RGB connector
10) Check for bent connector pins
11) No Serial Port
a) DTR always on
1) replace MC1488 &/| MC1489
2) bad U301 CIA
3) bad PAULA
12) Modifications:
a) Replace U602 and U605 (74LS245) with 74ALS245
Make sure that 74XX24(4|5)'s between Agnus & Ram are F types
the symptoms include spots appearing on screen
b) Cut-out C910 and C911
c) Put noise by-pass cap (.01ufd) on ElTek power supply TICK line
across R65.
d) Check for proper usage of ferrite beads at video connector
e) put 3300 ohm resistor between #20 & #11 of U605
f) Read TechTopics Issue #25 Section #3 (Apr-May-Jun 89) for details
1) remove R901, C917, C902, C910, C911, C905, C908, C230, C240
2) replace 1.2 KickRom with 1.3 or latest version
3) if U205 & U206 are 74HC244 install RP904, RP905, RP906
(4.7Kx5); if they are not DON'T install (e.g. 74HCT244)
4) add .01 UFD cap on J300 center connector to ground pad
5) add 470 ohm resistor to D800 cathode to second pad from the
left, under CN605. 4.3 rev boards and up have R1000 left of Q302
instead.
6) if R5719 installed, add 470 ohm resistor between VCC and CPU
side of R106.
7) Replace ALL Gary chips (5719) with MOS type p.n. 318072-01
8) Install new reset chip MITSUMI PST518B into ALL rev 6 boards
(see TechTopics 25/3-3.1)
13) Bad joy stick moves
a) U202 (74LS157)
14) Garbage from printer port
a) bad U300 CIA
A2500 (see also A2000 for hints)
1) Put 3.3k ohm pull-up resistors on pin 11, 12, 13, and 14 on U605
These are buffered AS, UDS, LDS, and R/W signals for the
expansion
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Old 29 February 2008, 11:16   #19
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Mine is in a continual reset loop with a black screen and 9 short LED blinks, 1 long blink (reset)...

Suggestions are that it could be RAM, however other suggestions are that it could realistically be anything as lots of things are tied to the data bus somehow or other. Bit of a sod really.

I go through a phase around every 2 years or so of thinking, "this'll be the time I finally fix it", but have not advanced the sodding machine's state since 1995 when it died
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Old 01 March 2008, 08:18   #20
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3000 saga continued

Quote:
Originally Posted by chiark View Post
Mine is in a continual reset loop with a black screen and 9 short LED blinks, 1 long blink (reset)...

Suggestions are that it could be RAM, however other suggestions are that it could realistically be anything as lots of things are tied to the data bus somehow or other. Bit of a sod really.

I go through a phase around every 2 years or so of thinking, "this'll be the time I finally fix it", but have not advanced the sodding machine's state since 1995 when it died
Back to basics. You started the diagnosis after you failed to get a Cyberstorm working. Check the FASTSLOT with a magnifying glass to be certain you didn't bend/break any of the tiny fingers in there. Also check the gap between the FLASTSLOT and the motherboard for debris or anything that might conduct. Using a can of compressed air with the machine off-unplugged/ blast air into the slot to give it a good shake for dust etc. Since the problem occured imediately after trying a cyberstorm in the machine only one of two things could have happened.
Cyberstorm was bad/shorted and fried some signal lines on the Amiga from the FASTSLOT (worse case scenario)
FASTSLOT had debris or bent pin that is conducting across some pins.

The final issue (and you really don't want it to be this) is damage from that battery leakage. However slight the leakage, if it gets into the traces (and some lovely PCB trace designer halfbreed put inner layer critical traces right under that battery) it will act as a wick following and corroding the traces as it goes. A horrible death for the A3000.
OK I gues that makes 3 total possibillities based on the history you reported

Vig
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