26 November 2014, 14:44 | #541 |
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I was not able to flash my Gotek... I only constantly got "unrecognized device" no matter what OS or serial driver.
Finally, I found another forum unrelated to Gotek (ST Microelectronics) that some were able to use the 3.3V (from the USB-TTL line to the Gotek) instead of the 5V line. I tried that, and it worked first time. May be of some help to people unable to flash. |
27 November 2014, 08:09 | #542 | |
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Quote:
I got that until i flashed under xp |
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05 January 2015, 11:52 | #543 |
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Been trying to flash a Gotek using a Prolific cable for the past few days - it's nightmarish!
Tried under Windows 7 on an AMD, Windows XP on an Intel, Windows 7 on an Intel, and Windows XP Mode in Windows 7 on an Intel. Haven't tried Linux yet, as I don't have it installed on anything. I've only successfully connected once, on the AMD after adjusting to low baud, and the software crashed while removing write protection. Since then, the Gotek's LEDs don't turn on when the programming jumper's removed, and I've never had another successful connection. I've got a different type of cable on order, but I'm a bit worried the Gotek's bricked. Is that possible? |
05 January 2015, 11:57 | #544 | |
We need more scans!
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Quote:
lots of resets on the drive + unplug and replug the usb->seriel adapter made me talk to the gotek drive again. I've had best success with flashing at 14k4bps on win 7. After each unsuccessful try, you should close the application. Start the app, reset the gotek drive, wait 1-2 secs and then try to make the connection. It takes some fiddling to do when it behaves like that. I got mine to work though. |
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05 January 2015, 12:35 | #545 |
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I'll keep trying, then!
I think I'll solder a flexible wire onto the reset terminal, to make it easier to reset quickly. |
06 January 2015, 00:23 | #546 |
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At least 50 tries, so far, and still unrecognized. I even soldered TX and RX directly to the pcb, to make sure it was definitely making contact! What a waste of an evening.
On the plus side, reset is definitely doing something, and taking the programming jumper off does something, so it's not bricked. Just an awful cable, I guess. Hopefully the CP2102 cable that's on it's way will work better (I hardly ever see people having issues with those) |
06 January 2015, 01:28 | #547 |
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@spatuluk
Be careful of some Prolific serial cables you can get on eBay UK. I bought 6 months ago a serial cable (one of those in the greenish transparent plastic) which I intended to use with Amiga Explorer. It _never_ worked properly. It would just truncate data randomly and cut the connection whenever it felt like it. Bought another cable and that one worked like a charm. If it's the same issue here it might be cutting off the connection during the programming... |
07 January 2015, 08:16 | #548 |
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Loads of fake prolific chips floating around. The fakes don't handle bidirectional comms at all, throwing garbage bytes into the rx stream (from the computer's pov).
This one worked: http://jope.fi/pl2303hxc.jpg This one didn't and has the garbage bytes problem as verified with a terminal connection: http://jope.fi/pl2303hx.jpg |
07 January 2015, 18:33 | #549 | |
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Quote:
Anyway, it's off-topic |
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08 January 2015, 00:26 | #550 |
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The official prolific drivers come with a fake chip detection app, try it out.
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12 January 2015, 15:50 | #551 |
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I tried the ID software, and it seemed to like it. I never did get it working with that cable, but it seems that it was an issue with the 5V (despite using 2 different laptops and a desktop)
When I tried the CP2102 cable. It didn't work with 5V connected to 5V, but it did work with 3.3V connected to 5V, as r.cade mentioned. It's now loading Amiga games! |
13 January 2015, 20:07 | #552 |
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Amiga Gotek Floppy Emulator featured in this months Custom PC !!
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02 February 2015, 23:12 | #553 |
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Since there are numerous different types of this drive and varying prices. Would it be possible to create a list of working devices?
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03 February 2015, 00:11 | #554 |
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I think they are all basically the same inside,
though I don't know about the 720k variety's. Just some have No Display or a 2 or 3 digit display and some show 2 LEDs and others just 1. |
03 February 2015, 20:41 | #555 |
We need more scans!
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the different models are shipped with that firmware.. i.e. a 720k drive, and 1440k drive.
they're all the same inside, except for the LED's as Nobby mentions. Once you flash Hervé's firmware it'll become an amiga drive and you don't need to worry if it's for a yamaha, or other keyboard/sewing machine. |
04 February 2015, 02:05 | #556 |
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Cool. Lots of price variations. Some are half price of others so just needed some confirmation lol
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04 February 2015, 10:22 | #557 |
We need more scans!
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I would go for the one that cost ~USD $16.50 free shipping which is the cheapest I can find ;-)
paying > $40 + shipping is ridiculous just because it has a sticker saying Amiga. |
04 February 2015, 18:36 | #558 |
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Does anyone have a Gotek working with a CDTV? I flashed my Gotek with 1.05a. Formatted a 4GB USB and put selector.adf in the root of the USB along with 2 game adf files.
Since I want to use this with the CDTV, I have taken a drive out of a Cumana CAX-354 and have put the Gotek in it's place (had to run a short floppy and power cable). Plugged it into the CDTV and powered on. Gotek shows '000' but CDTV goes straight to the spinning disc screen. If I press either key on the Gotek, the display briefly switches to '---' then back to '000', and the LED on the USB drive is constantly flashing. |
04 February 2015, 20:18 | #559 |
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I just ordered a couple of gotek drives to play with - is there any special I need to do to replace a real floppy drive inside one of those external metal 3rd party drive enclosures (aside from the firmware replacement)?
Last edited by dJOS; 04 February 2015 at 21:37. |
04 February 2015, 21:54 | #560 |
R.I.P Smudge 18-08-16
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I just plugged the Gotek in the same as the original drive. It works with a A1200 as DF1 & CDTV as DF0.
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