A600/1200 psu recapping !

[dlfrsilver]

Hi guys,

I have recapped lately with my soldering station one of my Atari 520 STF PSU, and the result is an excellent crystal clear image and no more waves on screen.

After doing the recapping on my main 1200, i have tried to find a recapping tuto on the net for original A500 and also for A600/A1200 PSU.

The only thing that arise from this search is that "hop, let's change the PSU for a PC one".

I'm not the only guy who wants to keep its original gear

So here we are, let's start on this A600/A1200 original PSU :

Tools needed :
--------------
- 'Current Protected' screwdriver (i use FACOM ones which support up to 1000V, so the 47 uF 400V capacitor won't do me any harm, as well as the other parts which could be charged).

* NEVER EVER TRY TO PROCEED IF YOU DON'T HAVE A PROTECTED TOOL/DEVICE TO DISCHARGE THE CAPACITORS ON THE MAINS, OTHERWISE IF YOU TOUCH A CHARGED PART, AND THAT THE CURRENT PULSE GET IN SYNC WITH YOUR HEART BEAT, YOU'RE DEAD AND I'M NOT KIDDING ! *

Capacitors list :
---------------

- 1x 47UF 400V (replacement Panasonic EEUED2G470S)
- 1x 2200UF 10V (replacement Panasonic EEUFC1A222)
- 2x 1000UF 10V (replacement Panasonic EEUFM1A102)
- 2x 470UF 16V (Replacement Panasonic EEUFC1C471L)
- 1x 100UF 16V (Replacement Panasonic EEAGA1C101)
- 1x 47uf 35V (Replacement Panasonic EEAGA1V470)
- 1x 1UF 50V (Replacement Panasonic EEAGA1H1R0)

1) Be sure that the PSU is not connected to the main /!\ /!\ and also that the PSU was not connected since 24H.
2) unscrew the 4 screws underneath it
3) press the power switch like if you wanted to switch on your amiga, this will help to discharge the big capacitor
4) Use the current protected screwdriver and pass it on the (+) and (-) poles of the 47uF 400V capacitor solder side.
5) do the same with all the parts to discharge the whole thing
6) prepare your solder station and use 400°C temperature for the iron
7) Pick your usual electronic-fluxed tin and use it if the solder points of the capacitors are reluctants to be desoldered
8) remove them one by one, and respect the polarity (!) on the new ones to avoid any explosion, smoke, whatever
9) put back the plastic cover and the 4 screws
10) Time to test !

NEXT A500 PSU internal

[Franchute13]

Thx!!! for the post!, image and warning

[kipper2k]

you forgot the first step, Always take close up pictures of entire board before removing components

[dlfrsilver]

Originally Posted by kipper2k

you forgot the first step, Always take close up pictures of entire board before removing components

you mean the solder side ? Because the whole components side can be seen. And each one is shown and described

[Damion]

Nice! :-)

I noticed a similar improvement in image quality when I recapped an A500 PSU a few years back, still working great. To me this was much easier and cleaner than hacking up something non-original. IIRC, the original caps were low-quality/cheap.

[dlfrsilver]

Thanks Damion, i wonder why NO ONE has tackled this subject before.....

[kipper2k]

Originally Posted by dlfrsilver

you mean the solder side ? Because the whole components side can be seen. And each one is shown and described

I always take pictures so i can see values on components if possible using macro for closeups

[Vot]

Originally Posted by dlfrsilver

Hi guys,

I have recapped lately with my soldering station one of my Atari 520 STF PSU, and the result is an excellent crystal clear image and no more waves on screen.

After doing the recapping on my main 1200, i have tried to find a recapping tuto on the net for original A500 and also for A600/A1200 PSU.

The only thing that arise from this search is that "hop, let's change the PSU for a PC one".

I'm not the only guy who wants to keep its original gear

So here we are, let's start on this A600/A1200 original PSU :

Tools needed :
--------------
- 'Current Protected' screwdriver (i use FACOM ones which support up to 1000V, so the 47 uF 400V capacitor won't do me any harm, as well as the other parts which could be charged).

* NEVER EVER TRY TO PROCEED IF YOU DON'T HAVE A PROTECTED TOOL/DEVICE TO DISCHARGE THE CAPACITORS ON THE MAINS, OTHERWISE IF YOU TOUCH A CHARGED PART, AND THAT THE CURRENT PULSE GET IN SYNC WITH YOUR HEART BEAT, YOU'RE DEAD AND I'M NOT KIDDING ! *

Capacitors list :
---------------

- 1x 47UF 400V (replacement Panasonic EEUED2G470S)
- 1x 2200UF 10V (replacement Panasonic EEUFC1A222)
- 2x 1000UF 10V (replacement Panasonic EEUFM1A102)
- 2x 470UF 16V (Replacement Panasonic EEUFC1C471L)
- 1x 100UF 16V (Replacement Panasonic EEAGA1C101)
- 1x 47uf 35V (Replacement Panasonic EEAGA1V470)
- 1x 1UF 50V (Replacement Panasonic EEAGA1H1R0)

1) Be sure that the PSU is not connected to the main /!\ /!\ and also that the PSU was not connected since 24H.
2) unscrew the 4 screws underneath it
3) press the power switch like if you wanted to switch on your amiga, this will help to discharge the big capacitor
4) Use the current protected screwdriver and pass it on the (+) and (-) poles of the 47uF 400V capacitor solder side.
5) do the same with all the parts to discharge the whole thing
6) prepare your solder station and use 400°C temperature for the iron
7) Pick your usual electronic-fluxed tin and use it if the solder points of the capacitors are reluctants to be desoldered
8) remove them one by one, and respect the polarity (!) on the new ones to avoid any explosion, smoke, whatever
9) put back the plastic cover and the 4 screws
10) Time to test !

NEXT A500 PSU internal

I like your instructions that carry good warnings for beginners.
And instructions like putting it back together before you test it.

[dlfrsilver]

Thanks, i'm not a pro on this matter, therefore i matter highly the security

@Kipper2K : I'm sorry, but the capacitors were put in a way that doesn't allow to photograph the values. And it's worse on the singaporian heavy PSU. I took a picture, but it's almost impossible too to see the values..... You need to reference them with your very eyes.....