Details for the next generation of Flickerfixers from Individual Computers - Page 62

golem · 26 May 2012, 22:27

Quote:

Originally Posted by bbond007

I did have the graphics glitches in multiscan modes on my 1D.4 A1200 as well as another A1200 I towered a long time ago. Certain colors world start flicking any time a breeze went through the room. Sometimes it would be really bad... In both cases I did the following fix:

http://aminet.net/package/docs/hard/flickerfix

If i am understanding this correctly, the problem with your A1200s, not the Indivision, so why apply the fix to the Indivision?

Thanks. I'm not sure this is the same bug. I have one mobo where $FFF white causes flickering but I've not had it with this particular mobo. In this hot weather the indi mkii has shown a lot of screen tearing after being on for a while.
Thanks ajk and p@rity, I will go to RS-components to get a surface mount resistor. It will be more flush

bbond007 · 26 May 2012, 22:48

Quote:

Originally Posted by golem

Thanks. I'm not sure this is the same bug. I have one mobo where $FFF white causes flickering but I've not had it with this particular mobo. In this hot weather the indi mkii has shown a lot of screen tearing after being on for a while.
Thanks ajk and p@rity, I will go to RS-components to get a surface mount resistor. It will be more flush

the issue i had with both motherboards was that in the first 10 minutes the multiscan mode would have artifacts and glitches if an absolute white was present in the palette. usually they would stabilize until a door or window was opened letting a draft into the room and it would start all over. I think both motherboards were 1D.4 but I can't be sure about the one i don't have anymore.

gibs · 27 May 2012, 15:33

I also have important glitches with my 1D4 motherboard...(without using any hack)

http://dl.dropbox.com/u/1566495/Amiga/IMG_4953.JPG

How to fix this ?

Edit : Resolution is 1024x768

lolof · 27 May 2012, 18:38

I also have the 1d4 MB and and quite often have the same problem but with more glitches.
I have a blizzard 1260 card.
Can this fix be useful for me ?
http://eab.abime.net/showthread.php?p=753433#post753433
Thanks

Retrofan · 27 May 2012, 20:08

Quote:

Originally Posted by gibs

I also have important glitches with my 1D4 motherboard...(without using any hack)

http://dl.dropbox.com/u/1566495/Amiga/IMG_4953.JPG

How to fix this ?

Edit : Resolution is 1024x768

Is it from the beginning? If not try to put a heatsink over Alice. It's not exactly the case Jens talked though http://eab.abime.net/showpost.php?p=...&postcount=671

bbond007 · 27 May 2012, 20:22

Quote:

Originally Posted by gibs

I also have important glitches with my 1D4 motherboard...(without using any hack)

http://dl.dropbox.com/u/1566495/Amiga/IMG_4953.JPG

How to fix this ?

Edit : Resolution is 1024x768

that looks exactly like the same issue i had. you should just put a temporary bridge over E127R and see if it helps. I'm sure it will. I don't know what this does but it it absolutely fixed mine 100%

diablothe2nd · 27 May 2012, 20:23

bridging a resistor is the same as removing it entirely and putting a connection in its place.

EDIT- IIRC the bridging of the resistors makes the board less prone to power fluctutions. I could be confusing that with something else though

bbond007 · 27 May 2012, 20:38

Quote:

Originally Posted by diablothe2nd

bridging a resistor is the same as removing it entirely and putting a connection in its place.

EDIT- IIRC the bridging of the resistors makes the board less prone to power fluctutions. I could be confusing that with something else though

Right, I just suggest maybe soldering a small wire or something temporary you could easily remove if the fix does not correct the problem.

I'm not very good at replacing components

In my case I made the fix permanent because it worked very well.

Both both of my boards were pretty bad before the fix.

this is also the guide I have been using for motherboard fixes. so far the info has served me well.

http://www.ianstedman.co.uk/Amiga/am..._mobo_fix.html

diablothe2nd · 27 May 2012, 20:43

Yes. if I were to do it, i'd solder in a switch on the bypass wire to try it and compare with it on (bypassed) and off (default) without having to remove/replace it numerous times

golem · 27 May 2012, 22:29

I booted my mig out the case on a towel and bridged E127R with a screwdriver. It did take away the artifacts I was seeing initially after boot. So sorry bbond007 I think you were right. My board is Escom 1D4. However, I got a bit too confident and tried to solder over the resistor. I crashed and burned and the resistor came off the board and I can't get solder to bridge the gap. either I am inept or my soldering iron is too hot. I am no good at this stuff! I am hoping Amigakit can come to the rescue I have sent them an email

Retrofan · 27 May 2012, 22:41

Quote:

Originally Posted by bbond007

this is also the guide I have been using for motherboard fixes. so far the info has served me well.

http://www.ianstedman.co.uk/Amiga/am..._mobo_fix.html

That has to be the best guide; but I've got a 2B revision (the more fixed there), and as Ian says "NOTE: My Rev 2B motherboard does not have the following 3 modifications and it works OK. AFAIK it came from a Commodore A1200."

diablothe2nd · 27 May 2012, 22:42

Golem, Ouch! sounds like you may have had the heat on too long. Is your iron 25w? if it's higher then yeah you need to be super quick so as not to overheat things.

if you want to bridge the gap, instead of blobbling solder on the board between the contacts, take a bit of spare wire and twist two or three individual strands of the copper together and "tin" it. Tinning is the process of applying heat and solder to the wire until it sticks and turns silver. cut the tinned wire to the length required to bridge the contacts. with a pair of tweezers lay the tinned wires over the contacts and just touch the iron on the wire. the solder on the tinned wires should then bond with the remaining solder on the pads where the resistor was.

gibs · 27 May 2012, 22:56

I can reproduce the issue each time.
They appear even the Amiga cold at first start.

Now when I launch Fblit, they don't comeback anymore.

But is the real solution ?

As I said I use the HighGFX driver @ 1024x768.

Maybe you guys are using ClassicWB with fblit ON and so the glitches don't appear ?
Can you test without fblit and my screen resolution ?

Retrofan · 27 May 2012, 23:33

Quote:

Originally Posted by gibs

I can reproduce the issue each time.
They appear even the Amiga cold at first start.

Now when I launch Fblit, they don't comeback anymore.

But is the real solution ?

As I said I use the HighGFX driver @ 1024x768.

Maybe you guys are using ClassicWB with fblit ON and so the glitches don't appear ?
Can you test without fblit and my screen resolution ?

I think its up to you, if you want a definitive solution. I would forget about software solutions and would try the bridge. I think FBlit only will make to use less ram, but at the same time I think it uses it over the 4mbs (just my idea with my problems with the Hawk). Surely some program will use more ram and under them.

gibs · 28 May 2012, 01:01

Of course.
But it's good to locate the issue and where it comes from.

I mean, it's not normal... Right?

Retrofan · 28 May 2012, 01:15

Quote:

Originally Posted by gibs

Of course.
But it's good to locate the issue and where it comes from.

I mean, it's not normal... Right?

It's indeed a hardware problem of the revision

... and it seems fixable. Edit: And you're good with the solder.

bbond007 · 28 May 2012, 01:20

Quote:

Originally Posted by golem

I booted my mig out the case on a towel and bridged E127R with a screwdriver. It did take away the artifacts I was seeing initially after boot. So sorry bbond007 I think you were right. My board is Escom 1D4. However, I got a bit too confident and tried to solder over the resistor. I crashed and burned and the resistor came off the board and I can't get solder to bridge the gap. either I am inept or my soldering iron is too hot. I am no good at this stuff! I am hoping Amigakit can come to the rescue I have sent them an email

Just take your time and try what diablothe2nd said with the wire or i think i used the leg of a resistor

you'll get it...

bbond007 · 28 May 2012, 01:23

Quote:

Originally Posted by gibs

I can reproduce the issue each time.
They appear even the Amiga cold at first start.

Now when I launch Fblit, they don't comeback anymore.

But is the real solution ?

As I said I use the HighGFX driver @ 1024x768.

Maybe you guys are using ClassicWB with fblit ON and so the glitches don't appear ?
Can you test without fblit and my screen resolution ?

fblit won't help...

this may

http://aminet.net/package/util/misc/BitmapShades

gibs · 28 May 2012, 09:19

Fblit fix this issue.
I don't know why but after I launch fblit I don't have any glitches.
The Amiga can run for 2 hours without any.
Without, the Amiga crash quickly (in 1 minute or 2).

I'll do a video.

paulo_becas · 28 May 2012, 15:03

Ok, i've been playing nonstop with my 1200 with Indi MKII in it for 4 hours now and the result are awesome, i do not experience any problem what so ever, the picture is crystal clear without any icon corruption.

Here's my configuration:

Amiga 1200 board Rev. 1D4 NTSC with the Alice PAL hack
E-matrix 1230 - 50Mhz 32 Mb RAM
Indivision Flickerfixer MKII with DVI to HDMI Cable and with a fan on top
ACER TV LED Monitor 20' AT2058ML
Lyra PS2 Keyboard adapter
Reset fix
Silversurfer
4 buffered IDE with IDEfix
Easynet
Classic WB 3.5 in a 8Gb Kingston CF Card
DVD Rom drive
Mouse/Joystick Switcher
Cocolino mouse adapter with a A4Tech optical mouse
HP 895Cxi printer
Better Paula sound hack
Amiga 500 PSU

All is working 100%

The only thing i experience is that the PSU is a little hot, i'm considering using an AT PSU that i have adapted to amiga.

What do you think of that?

27 May 2012, 15:33	#1223
gibs Banned Join Date: Jan 2010 Location: france Posts: 932	I also have important glitches with my 1D4 motherboard...(without using any hack) http://dl.dropbox.com/u/1566495/Amiga/IMG_4953.JPG How to fix this ? Edit : Resolution is 1024x768 Last edited by gibs; 27 May 2012 at 16:07.

27 May 2012, 18:38	#1224
lolof Registered User Join Date: Mar 2012 Location: Karlsruhe Posts: 40	I also have the 1d4 MB and and quite often have the same problem but with more glitches. I have a blizzard 1260 card. Can this fix be useful for me ? http://eab.abime.net/showthread.php?p=753433#post753433 Thanks Last edited by lolof; 27 May 2012 at 19:40.

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27 May 2012, 20:23	#1227
diablothe2nd Registered User Join Date: Dec 2011 Location: Northamptonshire, UK Age: 41 Posts: 1,236	bridging a resistor is the same as removing it entirely and putting a connection in its place. EDIT- IIRC the bridging of the resistors makes the board less prone to power fluctutions. I could be confusing that with something else though

27 May 2012, 20:43	#1229
diablothe2nd Registered User Join Date: Dec 2011 Location: Northamptonshire, UK Age: 41 Posts: 1,236	Yes. if I were to do it, i'd solder in a switch on the bypass wire to try it and compare with it on (bypassed) and off (default) without having to remove/replace it numerous times

27 May 2012, 22:29	#1230
golem Registered User Join Date: Mar 2012 Location: Nottingham, UK Posts: 77	I booted my mig out the case on a towel and bridged E127R with a screwdriver. It did take away the artifacts I was seeing initially after boot. So sorry bbond007 I think you were right. My board is Escom 1D4. However, I got a bit too confident and tried to solder over the resistor. I crashed and burned and the resistor came off the board and I can't get solder to bridge the gap. either I am inept or my soldering iron is too hot. I am no good at this stuff! I am hoping Amigakit can come to the rescue I have sent them an email

27 May 2012, 22:42	#1232
diablothe2nd Registered User Join Date: Dec 2011 Location: Northamptonshire, UK Age: 41 Posts: 1,236	Golem, Ouch! sounds like you may have had the heat on too long. Is your iron 25w? if it's higher then yeah you need to be super quick so as not to overheat things. if you want to bridge the gap, instead of blobbling solder on the board between the contacts, take a bit of spare wire and twist two or three individual strands of the copper together and "tin" it. Tinning is the process of applying heat and solder to the wire until it sticks and turns silver. cut the tinned wire to the length required to bridge the contacts. with a pair of tweezers lay the tinned wires over the contacts and just touch the iron on the wire. the solder on the tinned wires should then bond with the remaining solder on the pads where the resistor was.

27 May 2012, 22:56	#1233
gibs Banned Join Date: Jan 2010 Location: france Posts: 932	I can reproduce the issue each time. They appear even the Amiga cold at first start. Now when I launch Fblit, they don't comeback anymore. But is the real solution ? As I said I use the HighGFX driver @ 1024x768. Maybe you guys are using ClassicWB with fblit ON and so the glitches don't appear ? Can you test without fblit and my screen resolution ?

28 May 2012, 01:01	#1235
gibs Banned Join Date: Jan 2010 Location: france Posts: 932	Of course. But it's good to locate the issue and where it comes from. I mean, it's not normal... Right?

28 May 2012, 09:19	#1239
gibs Banned Join Date: Jan 2010 Location: france Posts: 932	Fblit fix this issue. I don't know why but after I launch fblit I don't have any glitches. The Amiga can run for 2 hours without any. Without, the Amiga crash quickly (in 1 minute or 2). I'll do a video.

28 May 2012, 15:03	#1240
paulo_becas Registered User Join Date: Feb 2010 Location: Porto, Portugal Posts: 464	Ok, i've been playing nonstop with my 1200 with Indi MKII in it for 4 hours now and the result are awesome, i do not experience any problem what so ever, the picture is crystal clear without any icon corruption. Here's my configuration: Amiga 1200 board Rev. 1D4 NTSC with the Alice PAL hack E-matrix 1230 - 50Mhz 32 Mb RAM Indivision Flickerfixer MKII with DVI to HDMI Cable and with a fan on top ACER TV LED Monitor 20' AT2058ML Lyra PS2 Keyboard adapter Reset fix Silversurfer 4 buffered IDE with IDEfix Easynet Classic WB 3.5 in a 8Gb Kingston CF Card DVD Rom drive Mouse/Joystick Switcher Cocolino mouse adapter with a A4Tech optical mouse HP 895Cxi printer Better Paula sound hack Amiga 500 PSU All is working 100% The only thing i experience is that the PSU is a little hot, i'm considering using an AT PSU that i have adapted to amiga. What do you think of that?

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