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Old 30 April 2018, 16:39   #41
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Originally Posted by Retrofan View Post
From time to time I've seen that the image on screen gets clearer, lighter (not for better). I think that it can be the crystal or the hot in the VIC.
That has nothing to do with the crystal, probably not either the VIC (you'll get an image or not). I don't know where you got that idea but don't be changing random things around if you don't really know what's going on.

It could even be your display or your cable.
Some people put a resistor between the luma line and the output, if you have this modification it could be the problem. SOme cables have it inside.
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Old 30 April 2018, 19:31   #42
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No, the cable is ok. I'm not sure if it has that resistor though. It's the one from Retro Computer Shack.
It hasn't it for what I've seen in a Youtube video. I didn't see it there.
[ Show youtube player ]

I have another cable with s-video output that has it and is the one that I use with the PC monitor with a VGA adapter and also works great. Well, to tell the truth I first bought a s-video cable and it didn't get any signal with the VGA adapter and only after I bought that s-video cable with the resistor is when I got it working.

It won't hurt changing the crystal or whatever that is 35 years old, and also remember that this C=64 was taken as my candidate for new/funny things. I know that Ray Carlen for example isn't an enthusiast of changing the caps in the C64 mobo even. Edit: Nope, I think that I won't change the crystal.

I'll also change the voltage rectifiers and I'll use modern DC-DC ones. I already changed the 5V one with an original one and that made a big difference (it had to be very bad), and I haven't changed the 12V one yet.
As Jan Beta commented here [ Show youtube player ],
the original rectifiers work right, but they get tooo hot and I've also seen videos showing with thermal cameras the high temperatures they get, and after ... 35 years they won't be "as new".

Well, in fact talking about high temperatures I also like a lot this video from GadgetUK [ Show youtube player ]
and that's why I've also added a fan. I'm actually using one that gives a decent airflow but I'll also try another (a Foxconn one) that I've ordered that I know that runs faster for what I've tried (I've got a larger one from that brand). I also know/think that their behavior will also change once I change the 12V rectifier as the 12V fan is actually only getting 10,15V.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Akira View Post
...probably not either the VIC (you'll get an image or not).
Not sure about the VIC. Now runs cooler (I'm using now larger heat sinks, and the fan is beside). And also I think that the problem has gone, I've got to try it more this afternoon. The first VIC my C= had was showing a pixel wrong so I changed it at the beginning, and this looks right.

I'll surely make a video tonight.

Edit: New video but that's showing the kernal switcher and a couple of things. The problem I've commented doesn't happen in the video.

LOL... excuse because at first I press Return instead of Restore. It's difficult to be recording and moving from a place to another and making things.

And also excuse me because this video looks very ugly. I switch the light off and then you don't see almost nothing, etc. I know that youtubers like to make a half hour video that takes them three days to edit, but I just record what I want to show with my shitty mobile and the video takes for me the time it takes to record it. I only show great things (MHO) but it will depend on you to see them in such crappy videos.

[ Show youtube player ]

Please don't ask me where did I find that so tiny (same size of the reset one) on-off switch. I've searched everywhere and it doesn't exist, so I've made my own one using a larger one and then I just changed the buttton.

Edit: And just to comment that at first I decided to use my worst C64 to make these changes and then I started this thread. But as I've commented I've repaired my "left for parts mobo", so it will also receive tons of mods as it has to grow from 0 (just that despised board). I will take a different approach for it though as I don't want to make any hole in the case that I've had to buy for it. I will comment the changes about this new project also in this same thread I think. My actual mod is the "Red C=64" and the incoming one will be the Black one.

And also, when I started, just thinking in painting it and few more, I didn't have an idea about the huge amount of mods that are available to try for the C64 :-)

Edit: I will use two fans (I think). I don't like at all how hot the VIC gets. I'll also only change the 5V regulator with a DC-DC one and the 12V one with a linear one.

Last edited by Retrofan; 23 May 2018 at 02:28.
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Old 12 May 2018, 03:21   #43
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So, this is what can happen (tonight) if you have few light and you hold your soldering iron from where you shouldn't...

But well, I've changed both voltage regulators. A linear one for the 12V and a DC-DC 5V one. I've decided to keep the aluminium heatsink in the 5V line and I've sticked it there with silicone paste. The C= is now much better than I am






Last edited by Retrofan; 19 May 2018 at 18:10.
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Old 19 May 2018, 18:13   #44
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So I've received a FM radio kit from Protovision and also a nice black cartridge case by icomp.de

... And I've mixed both







Edit:
Now I've made a nice cartridge label. The guys at Protovision were so kind to provide me with a pdf image that I've had to modify and search for the fonts and so to get the label I want with CorelDraw:



Plans? Well... to try it (yep), print and stick the label and then to add an on-off switch and maybe a rectangular led in the front, but first I want to finish making mods to the board and I've got one pending: adding a fan to the VIC chip. I've seen how hot it gets and yesterday I saw someone measuring that and it gets too hot for me.

So I'll wait to receive my Foxconn fan and I'll see if it can get a cooler VIC then. I've got another solution in mind if I'm not happy with that (noise and so).

Last edited by Retrofan; 23 May 2018 at 03:40.
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Old 23 May 2018, 00:53   #45
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I've thought in changing the label to include the place where I'll install a led.
I'm not sure if putting it in the middle or upwards. I'm still drawing it, so:



Edit: In the middle I guess
Edit 2: Few Commodorians here it seems...

Last edited by Retrofan; 23 May 2018 at 02:21.
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Old 23 May 2018, 03:18   #46
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I've thought in changing the label to include the place where I'll install a led.
I'm not sure if putting it in the middle or upwards. I'm still drawing it, so:



Edit: In the middle I guess
Edit 2: Few Commodorians here it seems...
Ooh I like those yellow ones
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Old 23 May 2018, 03:42   #47
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Thanks . RR means "ReboRn" to me . Thanks for making them, Retro Recipes

Edit 1: I've received some fans and I'm thinking in using these. The Foxfon one that I ordered was too high, but this one on the VIC is perfect just for being able to close the C=. It combines a nice aluminum heatsink with a silent -not so fast- fan...



I think that it will make the VIC to run cooler, and that's what I want. I'll check the noise they make of course.

I've sanded with fine sandpaper the covers of the RF modulator and the cartridge port cover. Then I've applied some Simoniz carnauba wax on them, just the good known way for cars. I have the idea that Commodore didn't use it when they made these plates .



It's difficult to make a photo. For real, when you move from a side to another you see them shining all around, but if you just take a photo some side seems to be darker. I'll order a fibre glass pencil and I will use it in any case.



Edit 2:
1) Led in place. Yep... "pixel perfect" like always :



BTW these 3D printed cartridge cases by icomp are very high quality ones .

2) And stickers on. Yep, I've finally left a black border around the led:


Last edited by Retrofan; 28 May 2018 at 02:57.
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Old 26 May 2018, 21:35   #48
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Sorry, but "Edit 3" deserves a new post to me

The C= is totally silent with both fans (or that seems to me in my a bit noisy cave with an aquarium). About the FM radio I've tried it and it doesn't work. I'm sorry to say that the board I bought has a board with a 5802E chip while what I've read is that it needs a 5807 one.

https://ibb.co/cdWFO8 . Forget about the fail in the config: I was trying some other, but that doesn't matter and as you can see it uses the default one to try to use the chip, and it's clear that the problem is with the chip id. It has to be clear enough when the program tells "Init RDA5807 FM Radio" ... and the card doesn't have that chip but another instead...
.
.
.
So I've orderded a couple of those small boards for around 1€ each that I'll have to solder there instead.

BTW I was wondering if you know of any cheap small fractal antenna that I could use internally instead of that wire that I'll be using now.

Last edited by Retrofan; 28 May 2018 at 02:04.
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Old 26 May 2018, 21:38   #49
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Those metal parts look great!
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Old 26 May 2018, 21:47   #50
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Yep, fine sandpaper seems to get the original look (well, it's really much better), better than painting it I'm thinking.

Edit: I'll be changing caps and maybe more things in my other project, my "new" Black&White C=64/16 so maybe in a near future I'll edit the thread to add some pics about it here. The thing is that I'm still awaiting for some parts and I'll be ordering some more soon.

Edit 2: Today I've added an on-off button to the FM Radio cartridge that will be used by the led too. It's fixed with thermal glue to the bottom side of the cartridge cover. I leave pending to connect the led with a resistor, just because the radio isn't working yet:



It keeps complaining about the chip, so maybe I burnt it just touching it after so much filing and so.

I'm also thinking in replacing the wire that I'm using as antenna with a female connector to connect there the antenna I've got for a PCMCIA Wifi card. I don't have an idea if that will work or what, but I think so.
In any case I've got to receive my 5807 board, solder it there and try it first.

Edit 3: No idea about what happens to my FM radio kit from Protovision. The 5802E chip is supported from time ago, so it should work. Maybe I touched mine ungrounded or something. In any case, as commented, I've ordered a 5807M for 1€, so I'll solder that instead and tell. Today I tried their floppy disk (great that they include it) with my 1541 floppy drive and it complained the same. It uses an old version of the software that should work too, but:



Edit 4: Today I've changed all of the caps of my B/W C=64 but the ones of the RF modulator. I've also renewed the 12V voltage regulator and I've just ordered a DC-DC angled one to change the 5V one like I made in my Red C=64.

Edit 5 and more: I've now sanded, then polished and then waxed with carnauba wax the cartridge metal cover of my B&W C=64 and then I've glued a label made with an image from some retro channel that I found googling .
I believe that this is the shiniest C64 cartridge port cover Ever:





About my B&W C64/16, it is my revived from dead (some organs were taked apart for donations from him years ago even) C=64 board now inside a new "body". He'll receive a black C=16 one and I'll be trying to insert some new arms and legs like a rescued C=64C white keyboard and some internal organs like a LumaTolb. I think that I'll use some flux here and there as anesthesia.

These are the C=64 labels that I received a couple of days ago in a huge box just to remind/tell him what his real name is in the case that he's got any doubt after waking up with this new black and white body.



I also think that now he will like being able to talk in stereo, because that's the plan. A bit more of surgery will be necessary of course...

Edit: Update: I've been buying some new hardware solutions that I will be showing and that I'll use. One is needed to develope my project about my Black C=64 (mod never seen/tried) [Edit: this option didn't work] and others will be used by whatever C64 I've got.

Edit: I tried to fix the not working FM radio board and solder a 5807M chip instead, but maybe I was too impatient and then I screwed the board. You know, shit happens and I'm not perfect. But well, I already ordered time ago a newer version of the board that I haven't seen used and I'll try it. In any case these boards are cheap.

Edit: Actually I have very few spare time as I've got three exams next week in another island (Tenerife). ... This is a pic of some things that I've received and that I've got pending: EasyFlash 3, SuperPla and SD2IEC. Some more are on the way.


Last edited by Retrofan; 19 July 2018 at 01:29.
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Old 02 July 2018, 01:09   #51
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Just to tell that my FM Radio is working now:

[ Show youtube player ]
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Old 02 July 2018, 01:10   #52
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Nice!
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Old 02 July 2018, 01:19   #53
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Nice!
Thanks. I tried not letting the radio stations playing but for a few seconds and also having a low volume... One minute later after uploading the video I've received a message telling that I had a reclaiming about authors rights and so... . Well, they will receive the payment for my incoming... 10 views in total?. LOL . Well, we get what we wanted to have... an improved AI.

I better had played the full songs at full volume I guess.

Last edited by Retrofan; 02 July 2018 at 01:29.
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Old 11 July 2018, 03:34   #54
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Quick photo about some of my hardware:



About my idea about using a cheap C16 case for my C64 board... I was planning not having to make any hole.... And I've had to make more than ever for being able to fit it there. Well, in fact you won't find any image about a C64 using it, so wait a bit for some images.

So I will make as many holes as I want. For what I've seen, the plastic of the cover in most of the sides is like twice times thicker than the one used in the C64 case. I've got a piece here and it's 4,5mm thick.

Last edited by Retrofan; 11 July 2018 at 18:32.
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Old 18 July 2018, 02:42   #55
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C64 B&W mod

So as I've told I fixed an old C64 mobo and I bought a case for it... Well, the cheapest and nicest I found was a C16 one that I thought could fit

But I had to make a lot of cuttings and so. It's very hard and I don't recommend using this case, but I think that it looks nice with so many cuttings even.

Today I've received the metal plate for the joysticks port that I was missing, so I've been able to mount the board and close it.

I've got to change the C= label and put the C=64 one yet and put some heatsinks and some add-ons, but I liked to take some photos right now as you won't find any about trying to use the C16 case with a C64 mobo:







BTW:
Quote:
Originally Posted by Retrofan View Post
From time to time I've seen that the image on screen gets clearer, lighter
Quote:
Originally Posted by Akira View Post
...It could even be your display or your cable.
Some people put a resistor between the luma line and the output, if you have this modification it could be the problem. SOme cables have it inside.
I'm getting that same changes on screen using my "new" C128. So, it seems clear that it must be the video cable/my scart switcher or surely just my Tv.

Edit: I should tell about my thoughts using a SD2IEC and also about using an EasyFlash 3 cartridge.
Well, they work well and so. With the EasyFlash you can play with few clicks some nice cartridge games made for it. You can also try some kernals or change any if you like; that's nice.
BUT... Come on, an Ultimate is so much better.... So I will only (or mainly) use the EasyFlash for those few nice games, and the SD2IEC when I just need it because I'm using the cartridge port with another thing.

Just my opinion of course.

And also just to share a wise comment from a friend. We were talking about the old floppy drives...


And he said: "la 1551 vaya ladrillo, y hoy en dia un pendrive del tamaño de una uña"
"What a brick that 1551... and nowadays you have a pendrive the size of a nail".

Last edited by Retrofan; 19 July 2018 at 01:36.
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Old 18 July 2018, 05:10   #56
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Quote:
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I've got to change the C= label and put the C=64 one yet and put some heatsinks and some add-ons, but I liked to take some photos right now as you won't find any about trying to use the C16 case with a C64 mobo
Yeah, too bad the C64 never came in black. :-)
Regarding using a C64 board in a C16 case, Lukhash comes to mind since he's often seen using just that:
[ Show youtube player ]


With regards to your C16 badge, my C16 is missing its badge so perhaps I could buy yours or we could do a swap? I probably have a breadbin C64 badge around here..
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Old 18 July 2018, 22:59   #57
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Thanks but I will keep the badge as I like it... and mostly since I've watched the video . I just think that I will keep that C=16 badge there.

I don't know what is he using. If it's a C16's case and not a painted C64 one with a C=16 badge, the bottom part doesn't seem to be the one of the C16. I just think that it's a C=64 case painted black with a mix of keys and a C=16 badge. As I say it could also be a C16 top part of the case plus a C64 bottom one painted black.

In any case I'm planning to make a small change at the rear part, adding a cutted and filed piece of the C=16 plastic pieces left after the cuttings and also I'll cutt a bit around the RF modulator connector (I just can't connect anything there now).

And also just to comment that for the plastic parts I add, I use "Liquid Poly" to "melt" them. You know that I love to share my tricks.

Edit: Small change at the rear part of it as I told. I've added a piece of plastic to the RF connector:



Edit: Pimping my B&W C64. Tomorrow I'll see what kind of heatsink/fan I'll be using on the SIDs and VIC II:





Edit: Overkill? I like this fan:


Last edited by Retrofan; 29 July 2018 at 01:49.
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Old 19 July 2018, 05:04   #58
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I don't know what is he using. If it's a C16's case and not a painted C64 one with a C=16 badge, the bottom part doesn't seem to be the one of the C16. I just think that it's a C=64 case painted black with a mix of keys and a C=16 badge. As I say it could also be a C16 higher part of the case plus a C64 bottom one painted black.
He writes that it is a C64 board in a C16 case, but it could be a mix of a painted C64 bottom with a C16 top, however I think it is a C16 bottom as well which he has cut to fit.
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Old 26 July 2018, 23:23   #59
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Ultimate II firmware update from old versions

I want to tell how I've updated my Ultimate II that I bought like four years ago. It had a firmware version 2.6j that I never had updated.

So I downloaded the files to update it from the page here. Latest update is 3.2 both for the Ultimate II and also for the Ultimate II+:

http://www.1541ultimate.net/content/...blog&Itemid=19

But when I went to the file to update it and I clicked on it, I only had the "Rename" or "Delete" options.

So I sent an email to the developer. I have to tell that it was very very late here, around 1AM but he answered in a minute or two

So he told me that I should first install a former update:

Quote:
There is an update.bin file in the 3.0beta package, and maybe some later packages. Put this on the root of your SD card and boot.

Then once you have 3.x, you can upgrade from there by selecting the file. This function simply doesn't exist yet in 2.x
So I did that. I downloaded the update 3.0 beta 7 from here:

http://commodore.software/index.php?...223&Itemid=126

And then I added it to the root of the sd card. It detected it and then it updated the files. (...).

The problem was that after the update and a reboot I wasn't able to use the center button of the Ultimate II and I wasn't able to see my Sd card or my USB stick files

But ... the day after I saw that unplugging the usb stick I was able to see the files of the sd card.

So I clicked on the update option that the files were showing then and I updated both audio 3.2 and dualdriver.

After that then I was able to insert the pendrive again and now the center button of the Ultimate works again. So it was a problem with the usb stick plugged in.

So now it's updated to 3.2 (10F).

Gideon told me:
Quote:
Please note that recording tape images with 3.2 is broken. There is no official update for the U2 after that.
EDIT: Photos of my B&W C=64 updated in my previous post. Now I've added an Nvidia cooler

Last edited by Retrofan; 29 July 2018 at 01:39.
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Old 29 July 2018, 00:18   #60
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