10 May 2012, 14:45 | #1001 |
French in Australia
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Now we need a BMON switch specially designed to take the INDY mk2 and other board(s) in lieu and place of the RF modulator (Voodoo + Bvision ?)
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10 May 2012, 14:54 | #1002 | |
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Hi, Final revision boards will be here tomorrow, so hopefully by end of next weekend (Its a long weekend here in Canada next weekend). I have some other little projects too, it won't be long though. I don't think there will be many people that can actually display HDMI until the new cores are released. Who here can get HDMI working ? |
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10 May 2012, 15:38 | #1003 | |
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I'm using a Samsung 4:3 LCD Monitor and i don't experience any problems with the image, i'm using highgfx driver, the only thing i noticed is that it is a little slow in a 1024x768 256 colour environment and the image in the games is cut in half, i can't center the image. In workbench works perfectly now i'm trying to put a heatsink on alice and on top of indi.
One question, do you guys only put a fan on top of them or you use a actual heatsink? If i use the smallest hestsink i could found (it has 1 cm thick) on top of alice the keyboard won't fit properly, instead if i just put the fan on top it fits perfectly (it has 0,5 cm), any suggestions? Quote:
Do you have any prediction on when the config tool and the new cores will be ready? Is it hard to flash the indi? Sorry for the questions but i want to make everything perfect, i already ruined one 1200 with experiences and i don't want to do the same with this one. |
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10 May 2012, 16:39 | #1004 |
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I've just installed INDI MK2 in my A1200 and nothing happens
My Compaq VGA CRT (I've been using for years with external scandoubler) shows black screen and behaves like there is no input signal at all. I also tried Samsung LCD with VGA cable and it doesn't display anything ('no signal'). I know that config tool is not available yet but CRT should work without it! One more thing: do your INDIS fit tight on Lisa chip? I mean is it easy to remove scandoubler from Lisa? My INDI can be quite easy removed without much force - I accidentaly pressed it gently when mounting keyboard interface and it almost fell off. |
10 May 2012, 16:42 | #1005 |
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it should be very tight.... i could almost lift the whole amiga with it's gripping force.
perhaps you didn't quite fit it properly. make sure you fully support the underside of the motherboard so it doesn't bend... it should make a noticeable "crunch" noise as it is pushed home. make sure you cant wiggle it first before putting down the thumb pressure though as per the manual. |
10 May 2012, 16:45 | #1006 | |
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'When they're ready' (I think if you look through you'll see Jens has been unequivocally clear on not giving a date and recommending waiting before ordering if you need the config tool. If I'm misinterpreting anything, my humble apologies! ) |
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10 May 2012, 17:00 | #1007 | |
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10 May 2012, 17:38 | #1008 | |
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However, in my case at least, a fan is still necessary. I am building one in over the weekend. I attached an image of my screen when the system overheats. |
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10 May 2012, 17:45 | #1009 |
electricky.
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Push harder. Once it's on, you can lift the whole Amiga on the flickerfixer.
Classic chipset trouble, nothing actually caused by Indivision, but made visible by Indivision. You can fix that by installing a 1k resistor (size 0805) on position R24 of the flickerfixer. If you don't want to solder on the flickerfixer, you can add a pullup-resistor on the CCK signal at pretty much any position of the mainboard. Jens |
10 May 2012, 17:57 | #1010 |
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Jens, should this resistor issue only be done if needed? what happens if you later put that indi in a 1200 that doesn't need the fix?
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10 May 2012, 17:58 | #1011 | |
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Quote:
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10 May 2012, 18:20 | #1012 | |
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Quote:
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10 May 2012, 18:22 | #1013 | |
electricky.
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Yes, only if you actually see the trouble.
Quote:
Position R24 is just there for convenience. Again, it fixes the Amiga, not Indivision. Jens |
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10 May 2012, 18:32 | #1014 |
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I was sniffing the web when i came across a way of fixing the heatsink to the chips, all they do was mixing super glue with thermal liquid then cover the chip with it and place the heatsink on it, wait a few minutes and that's it.
I was wondering if anyone has ever tried this? |
10 May 2012, 18:35 | #1015 | |
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errrr i wouldn't! you'll never get the darn thing off in the future for whatever reason you might need. silver paste holds pretty well by itself... but a drop of super glue on opposite corners where it makes contact will definitely keep it in place.... would require much less effort (and risk to the mainboard) if you need to remove it later |
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10 May 2012, 18:38 | #1016 |
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This is my solution for potential overheating.
A small cpu fan, with a tiny drop of hot glue at the four outermost corners. And in the grill at the top of the Amiga a slightly larger fan. (the aca 1230 56Mhz is also a lot cooler) It stays really cool |
10 May 2012, 18:58 | #1017 |
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10 May 2012, 19:34 | #1018 |
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Update: I disassembled my A1200 from E/Box tower, put mainboard on a table and pushed Indivision on Lisa chip. It works now!
I've tested it for a while with Compaq CRT monitor: - Early Startup Menu works OK, - WB in Hires 640x256 works OK, - WB in Hires Laced 640x512 - interlace is gone but when something is moving on the screen (mouse pointer) it looks like it's interlaced, - Low Res game (Alien Breed 3d) works OK, - Super Hires and Super Hires Laced are displayed but with many artefacts. There is also "info" displayed in the left corner of the screen every time when screen mode is changed. Quite annoying but maybe config tool will let to turn it off |
10 May 2012, 19:39 | #1019 |
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Isn't the "info" thingy from the screen it self? Loads of screens do that, to inform you that something changed, and so on.
B! |
10 May 2012, 20:30 | #1020 |
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