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Old 25 April 2012, 00:04   #81
prowler
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The drawings will take at least a couple of days to complete. It is proving difficult, but not impossible, to measure such small objects. The tops of the keys have the edges slightly rounded, but the radius is much less than the minimum radius I can measure accurately (1mm).

The scans I made from each side of the keyboard show the lower edges of the keys to have been polished away, leaving a vertical skirt of 1mm or so at the bottom. If it were not for this, the keys would measure 18.5mm square across the base.

I have three A500s and an A500 Plus. Strangely, this feature is more evident on the later keyboards, so it cannot be due to wear and tear. Indeed, the earlier keys are much sharper at the bottom edges, so that those keyboards appear to have less clearance between the keys.

The drawings will depict each of the five unique key profiles. For clarity and best accuracy, only the four edges will be shown dimensioned with the angles between them specified.

The effects of rounded edges and polishing will not be shown. I know nothing about how features like this are incorporated into the rendering, but I imagine that the extent to which these are implemented is best chosen at the rendering stage to give the most pleasing result.
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Old 25 April 2012, 17:49   #82
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I understand fully if you can't measure stuff less than 1mm, and that's not necessary either. About the rounding I think it should suffice if you scan the top and bottom of one key. Beveling/rounding could be done in a bunch different ways. It may be easy or superhard to change depending how far you are with model. But I'll do some test renders to see if we're on the right path.
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Old 26 April 2012, 23:06   #83
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Hi bLAZER,

Here are 600dpi scans of the ESC key. This key measures 18mm square at the base, and the top is 12mm wide x 14mm deep.

I'll try to get the drawings completed and uploaded in time for the weekend.
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Old 26 April 2012, 23:11   #84
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Perfect, thanks!
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Old 26 April 2012, 23:55   #85
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Wow! With so perfect measures you could make this model in 3D.

And here's a video really interesting for modellers about it:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8aghzpO_UZE

I found it in this incredible project that you have to read too:

http://www.amibay.com/showthread.php...stery+hardware
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Old 27 April 2012, 00:11   #86
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Pretty cool C-64 model there... it's still a bit expensive to print 3D models though, but prices are dropping of course.
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Old 28 April 2012, 01:31   #87
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Hi bLAZER,

I'm uploading the drawings to The Zone for you now.

The drawings show the left side profiles of the keys in Rows 1-4 and 5&6, where Row 1 is the front row and Rows 5&6 are the back two rows.

I made the drawings at 10x scale and then scanned them at 150dpi.

The dimensions and angles are given in the table below. The back of each key is shown on the left and the front on the right.

Code:
Row          1        2        3        4       5&6

Top        14.0mm   14.0mm   14.0mm   14.0mm   14.0mm
Back        8.5mm    8.0mm    8.0mm    9.0mm   10.5mm
Front      13.0mm   11.5mm   10.5mm   10.5mm   11.5mm
Base       18.5mm   18.5mm   18.5mm   18.5mm   18.5mm
Top Back    113º     110º     105º     100º      97º
Top Front    92º      97º     102º     106º     106º
Base Back    83º      82º      83º      84º      85º
Base Front   72º      71º      70º      70º      72º
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Old 28 April 2012, 12:41   #88
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Excellent work! I'm off work for 4 days so I'll have plenty of time for some modelling.
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Old 28 April 2012, 21:43   #89
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OK, so I think I got all the keys modeled pretty good (not shift, alt etc) but do you think you could measure somehow the angle they are layed out? Either the angle or if you measure the distance from the bottom to the top of the front and back. See the image. (As you can see the keys are not aligned properly.
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Old 28 April 2012, 21:53   #90
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The angle is 13º, but it looks like you have the keys reversed, i.e. the back row keys at the front and the front row keys at the back.

The views I drew were from the left side of the keyboard.

Edit: But you will find - even when you turn them around - that the tops of the keys don't align properly, as my scan from the left side of the keyboard showed.

Last edited by prowler; 28 April 2012 at 22:02.
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Old 29 April 2012, 00:27   #91
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Ah, I forgot about those two photos from you... will do some adjustments though, and thanks for the angle!
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Old 29 April 2012, 02:26   #92
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You were right, I had the keys reversed. Now they look pretty good and fit well. The only think that I had to eyeball is the curvature of the key and the bevel. I think it's good to go now.

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Old 29 April 2012, 16:29   #93
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Yes, I agree. That looks quite realistic now.
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Old 29 April 2012, 22:32   #94
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Yeah, with some minor tweaks and a better material I think I will look fine and dandy.
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Old 29 April 2012, 23:49   #95
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For the love of god STOP, have you not seen the matrix? You are making it too easy for the machines to recreate the peak of our civilisation!

This goes double for you Toni Wilen if you're listening, seriously, you better quit it before some leather clad hackeress comes knocking . . . .ah wait . . . now I see what you're up to, night after night, sitting at your computer, you dawg.



Amazing stuff though, the grimy tank mouse looks amazing, if I hadn't been tipped off I'm sure I would have though it was a photo. Look forward to seeing the finished 500. Are you a professional bLAZER?
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Old 30 April 2012, 00:41   #96
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No, I'm not doing any 3D in my day job, just programming and some 2D.
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Old 01 May 2012, 03:37   #97
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So, the keys are looking pretty good now, just the two enter/return keys left to do. Also the Del/Help keys doesn't seem to fit exactly as they should in the cut out, maybe I measured the hole wrongly. I'll check again otherwise I'll adjust so it'll fit, no one will notice anyway.

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Old 01 May 2012, 21:49   #98
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Wow! That looks just like my photo now, except for the different viewpoint. Great work, bLAZER!
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Old 01 May 2012, 22:37   #99
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Thanks! I'm gonna wait with the texturing for the keys because after that's done there's no turning back, and maybe I find something that I want to change.

So when you have some time over it would be nice if you could do some more measuring of the body.
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Old 01 May 2012, 23:02   #100
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bLAZER View Post
So when you have some time over it would be nice if you could do some more measuring of the body.
Okay, But the rest won't be given the same priority as the keyboard area, as this was (for me) the most difficult part. I'll continue with this as and when I have time.

Next, I will measure the rest of the features visible in my photograph of the top. The remaining measurements will be much easier to describe, being made in a plane parallel with or perpendicular to the surface of the body.

Then, I'll photograph the two sides and provide measurements, followed by the back and then finally the base.
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Old 01 May 2012, 23:06   #101
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Yes, that's fine. I don't need that kind of accuracy for the rest. Just the basic width/height of the base, the length of the fan holes, floppy drive size and some other stuff.
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Old 02 May 2012, 12:24   #102
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I applaud you both. If there's anything I can do to help, let me know...
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Old 05 May 2012, 16:08   #103
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Sure, if you have an Amiga 500 you could take some measurements aswell.
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Old 10 May 2012, 16:45   #104
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Dare I ask the point of this? New cases for old A500 mobos? New cases for ITX PCs? Intellectual challenge?
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Old 10 May 2012, 19:09   #105
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Static mesh in any game engine that can import from Maya (or Maya can export to).
Either as decoration or even as part of the level geometry (why could you not have an Amiga as a game level ).
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Old 11 May 2012, 15:28   #106
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The purpose is to make some cool rendered images.
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Old 12 May 2012, 00:06   #107
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bLAZER View Post
The purpose is to make some cool rendered images.
I'd hoped for more
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Old 12 May 2012, 00:13   #108
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Methanoid View Post
I'd hoped for more

I'm just waiting a nice image to set as wallpaper, and it takes a lot of effort, collaboration and time
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C=64 with ITX inside. Posting with it.
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Old 12 May 2012, 01:48   #109
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@prowler, got anything for me soon?

This is an example of images I wanna make... but with a complete model obviously:
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Old 12 May 2012, 01:57   #110
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I'll try to complete my measurements of the top tomorrow for you. It shouldn't take too long.

Next, I'll have a go at photographing both sides, the back and the base. I don't like using flash for these sort of photographs, and I've had to wait for the weather to improve. It's been very dull and overcast recently, but today was much better and the forecast for the weekend is for more of the same, so I'll try my best to get the photos done.

After which, the measurements can be done when I have a few spare moments.
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Old 12 May 2012, 02:19   #111
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Great, looking forward to it!
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Old 12 May 2012, 21:43   #112
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Quote:
Originally Posted by prowler View Post
I'll try to complete my measurements of the top tomorrow for you. It shouldn't take too long.
Hell, I thought this would be easy after the keyboard, but all the surfaces are at odd angles and most corners are rounded, which is making it very difficult indeed!

I have spent quite a while on this today, but don't have much to show for it. I'm reluctant to post any measurements yet, as I have to keep changing them to get everything to fit together properly.

I may have to illustrate some of the finer points with a drawing or two to help explain what I mean.

Tomorrow, if the weather holds up, I'll get the photos done.

Would it help at all if I was also to scan details like the Amiga logo, Commodore badge and the POWER and DRIVE legends adjacent to the LEDs?
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Old 12 May 2012, 22:45   #113
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Don't get hung up on TOO much detail though...but do what you feel's sufficient. The photo you took is OK to figure out the Amiga, c= and power and drive-logos.
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Old 12 May 2012, 23:00   #114
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Quote:
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Don't get hung up on TOO much detail though...but do what you feel's sufficient.
The biggest problem is that the sides of the machine (seen from the front) are shaped rather like this:

<=======> (exaggerated)

For this reason (or so I imagine), your earlier renders didn't look quite correct at the back on the right hand side where the floppy drive is, and that's why I'm giving this so much attention.

Quote:
Originally Posted by bLAZER View Post
The photo you took is OK to figure out the Amiga, c= and power and drive-logos.
Thanks for confirming that.
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Old 13 May 2012, 21:44   #115
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I got busy with my camera today.










Last edited by prowler; 13 May 2012 at 21:59.
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Old 14 May 2012, 01:00   #116
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Excellent, thanks a lot dude!
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Old 18 May 2012, 15:44   #117
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Prowler, I notice that my bottom keys are much taller than on your photos. So I'm asking if you can tell me how the keys are aligned vertically? See the attached image. The green object is the black plate under the keys. #1 is how they are now. #2 is where the rows are on different levels. #3 are when the main body isn't 13 degrees?

So, please enlighten me.
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Old 18 May 2012, 22:30   #118
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Hi bLAZER,

I see that you prefer drawing the keys round that way.

The bases of the keys are all in alignment, IIRC, and my scans from each side of the keyboard (which actually show the back plate too) confirm this, so picture #2 (where the rows are on different levels) can be eliminated.

My measurement of the angle must therefore be the source of the error, so I'll check it again for you tomorrow.
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Old 19 May 2012, 01:14   #119
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Quote:
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Hi bLAZER,
I see that you prefer drawing the keys round that way.
Hmm... what do you mean?

Thanks.
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Old 19 May 2012, 21:58   #120
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Quote:
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Quote:
Originally Posted by prowler View Post
Hi bLAZER,
I see that you prefer drawing the keys round that way.
Hmm... what do you mean?
Thanks.
Well, what I mean is that your drawing looks like the keyboard viewed from the right (numeric keypad) side, but the double-depth enter key is on that side, so what you have drawn is, in fact, a mirror-image of the keyboard viewed from the left side.

In the meantime, I have discovered why your bottom keys are much taller that in my photos.

Firstly (a minor point), I didn't have the case screws in when I took the back and side view pictures, so there is an exaggerated gap between the top and bottom halves of the case at the front.

And secondly (the real cause), I had assumed that the keyboard base aligned with the top of the bottom half of the case (i.e. at 13º), whereas in fact it is lower at the front and higher at the back. By trigonometry, the angle of the keyboard base is shown to be 15º.

This is just one example of why the features of the A500 case are so difficult to measuree and describe accurately.
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