23 April 2016, 17:27 | #1 |
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Competition Pro Joystick - Choosing The Correct Microswitch?
Hi people,
Just bought Competition Pro. It's working fine. But have some issues with diagonal directions. It's not working very smoothly. Is there a way to fix it by myself? The other thing is I want to buy also new microswitches. As the title say: Competition Pro Joystick - Choosing The Correct Microswitch? Where to buy the right one? Thanks A |
23 April 2016, 17:42 | #2 |
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They are often sold as "cherry microswitches". You might get genuine cherrys, you might not.
Most arcade shops will sell them, you can also get them from electronics stores, they are regular industrial micro switches. I bought a pile of Omron switches myself, I looked at the datasheet to find one with the smaller 4.3mm spade connectors and an actuation force I liked and bought 100 pieces from Farnell. Get some shaped like this: http://img.directindustry.com/images...05-2849775.jpg You can get two or three pin ones, just make sure that the two pin ones have the common pin and the NO pin. If you have three pin ones, then leave the NC pin disconnected. |
23 April 2016, 17:52 | #3 |
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Thanks Jope.
Can you point me to the right store and to the right one? I'm from Europe, so want to order it online. |
23 April 2016, 19:31 | #4 |
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Well here's a few, I deliberately didn't want to post links, because links die and I like to post for the ages, not throw away stuff.
http://www.ebay.de/itm/Mikroschalter...9iAujNwuU5YC5A http://www.ebay.de/itm/5-x-10-x-20-x...VXr7mCRJmeKB_w http://www.arcadeshop.de/Parts-Butto...-0187_317.html http://www.arcadeshop.de/Parts-Butto...erry_1079.html http://www.arcadeworlduk.com/categor...Microswitches/ You can find hundreds of more shops selling switches by googling for arcade micro switch or jamma micro switch. Can't go wrong with Cherry D44Xs, but they are a bit more expensive than the chinese neverheard brands. If the NC pin is in the way when installing it into a joystick, you can cut or saw that pin off. As said, you only need C and NO. |
23 April 2016, 19:40 | #5 |
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Thanks a lot for this.
Best A |
24 April 2016, 07:54 | #6 |
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real competition pro's use leaf switches for the buttons, not clicky microswitches, like these:
http://www.arcadeshop.de/Leaf-Switch...5-mm_1057.html |
24 April 2016, 08:19 | #7 | |
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Quote:
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24 April 2016, 09:24 | #8 |
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back in '85 all buttons I ever played in the arcades were silent leaf ones.
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24 April 2016, 17:44 | #9 |
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The other thing what's comes to my mind, in the meantime to put something in the lower side of the stick.
When it's reaching the switches, to be closer to them. The main problem is the upper-right direction! Seems like the stick can not properly reach that part. Don't know how otherwise to describe it. Any suggestion what could works? A tape or something else...? Last edited by atilla; 24 April 2016 at 17:53. |
24 April 2016, 17:57 | #10 | |
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Quote:
Those old arcade cabinets had a specific kind of leaf switch holder that worked together with a specific kind of leaf switch button (two depths of button and leaf holder are available). The competition pro's leaf fire buttons are a self-contained assembly with the button + leaf switch as one unit. |
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10 August 2017, 17:24 | #11 |
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My competition pro uses leaf switches for all the joystick movements as well as fire buttons.
Is there any way to install microswitches instead of leaf one for all the joystick directions? I saw one like mine on the interwebs that was like this, so I don't know why mine is different. Much prefer the clicks in my zip stick, and want this one the same as much as possible! |
10 August 2017, 18:11 | #12 |
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You have the competition pro 2000, it shipped like that. Better just find a 5000, extra or star, you'd need the microswitch mounts from one of those anyway. :-)
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10 August 2017, 22:47 | #13 |
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I would like to know the other way around: can I replace those damn clicky pieces of shit with leaf switches that are silent? Or maybe better, non-clicky Sanwa microswitches. Now that would be cool.
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11 August 2017, 06:36 | #14 |
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There are some micro -> leaf converters available in the arcade world.
http://groovygamegear.com/webstore/i...roducts_id=309 I seem to remember another similar product, but can't find it just now. |
11 August 2017, 15:56 | #15 |
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I need to get a Competition Pro again and start investigating!
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11 August 2017, 22:57 | #16 |
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I have a bunch of Comp Pro's.
They all have Leafs for the Fire Buttons, Microswitches for the directionals. I did intend on rebuilding one of them but hit a snag, there is a thick rubber doughnut that the shaft goes through and that has rotted, gone bad so I just boxed everything up for another day. If I have the time I may go and fish the box out and have a nosey at them. |
12 August 2017, 08:43 | #17 |
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The older ones with the rubber spring are quite long in the tooth these days. Either they stiffen up or loosen up totally, but the stick ends up being a bit unplayable in either case. The later metal springed ones are still going strong.
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12 August 2017, 16:41 | #18 |
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The only one I had was a Pro Extra and it was all microswitched. I hated the clicking, and the directions started to go bad after a while. Not good quality. But if I had kept it I'd try to change the microswitches now.
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13 August 2017, 00:39 | #19 | ||
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Quote:
Quote:
The fire butons with leaf switches were custom parts too, I think. But theoretically, you should be able to replace them with very short arcade buttons like these, since the hole for these buttons has a standard diameter - only problem is there's not much vertical space, hence the buttons need to be as short as possible. Later Competitions Pros occasionally used cheaper micro-switches - which didn't last very long, made more noise or were harder to press down. Replace your switches with Cherry microswitches, it will feel and sound a lot better. |
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13 August 2017, 01:13 | #20 | |
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Well, I don't have it anymore, but I do have a Cruiser that could use some silencing! I should pop it open and have a look. It's a great joystick otherwise. |
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