Ordered a GBS 8220 got a 8200 Rev 4
 

As above, ordered a 8220 but they sent a 8200, is this basically the same thing or have I been ripped off?

Oh and can anyone point me in the direction of a wiring diagram for an A1200 :)

8220 and 8200 are (almost) the same thing. Difference is that 8220 has dual output so you can connect two monitors, it outputs the same picture on both, while 8200 has "only" one output.

I used this schematic for wiring cable

http://awesome.commodore.me/articles...nverter-amiga/

You could also use DB15 connector instead of the one from schematic, just connect wires like in this schematic, R, G, B, GBD and CSYNC. For some reason only CSYNC works. I have DB23 to DB15 cable that I made which uses separate HSYNC and VSYNC and this cable doesn't work at all with GBS82x0.

I doubt anyone uses the other VGA port, so I would not bother complaining.

I have the 8220, but only because I found it cheaper than the 8200.

I mounted mine on a little bit of board, then screwed the board to the VESA mounts on the back of my monitor. That way it is all hidden and no exposed boards cluttering up my already crammed desk!

I would probably only complain because of the price, everywhere I looked 8220 was at least $5 more.

I bought mine here, it was cheapest I could find. So far it works fine (or as expected), even doesn't have that white dot issue.

Thanks guys, I've got it all setup now. :)

I've got it connected to a Mitsubishi Diamond Plus 220 CRT Monitor and I've got to admit that the picture quality is considerably WORSE than the image I get on my 32" Samsung HDTV via SCART :(

No white dots but a considerable amount of flicker that I don't see when using SCART on my other TV. I've also got a slight ripple on the border that scrolls upwards.

I'm using an external 5v PSU @ 800mA, is this enough?

I'm guessing this is just teething problems as I have no idea how to configure the card properly.

I know people have measured actual current draw of the board, and it does not need 1amp. But there is lots of talk saying you need a decent PSU.

I have a +2000mA one. It came with lots of barrel adaptors.
I was finding it difficult to find a PSU with the correct size, although you could just cut the wire and wire it to the onboard power connector.

Thanks Higgy, I'll try a different PSU, I know I have a 9 volt @ 2.x amps, I'll add a few diodes to drop the voltage to 5v.

I have two cheap chinese 5V 2A adapters. One works fine, the other not so. Both can power the board but with one of them I get waves across the screen going up, then it slows down to almost dissapear, then they start going in the opposite direction and so on. With the other one picture is solid. So it might help to try different adapter.

Sounds like you are using an unregulated power supply.

PZ.

This is the one I bought:

http://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B003GSPSG...986871_TE_item

Mercury 2250mA Energy Efficient Switch Mode Power Supply

Up to 2250mA for all output voltages
Comes supplied with 8 adaptors
Uses 25% less power making it more energy efficient
Materials used and manufacturing process are more environmentally friendly
Power maximum: 27W

Hello, i would also like to buy one of those:

Questions:

1) can't you use the 23 pin (DB23) for power? If should give you 5V, not enough mA?

Pin 21 -12V -12 Volts DC (50ma)
Pin 22 +12V +12 Volts DC (100 mA)
Pin 23 +5V +5 Volts DC (100mA)


2) can you get the power from miggy Motherboard?

I couldn't see any mention of regulation in that link.

Still thinking this is the problem :(

PZ.