English Amiga Board - Gotek Floppy emulators and Amiga computers now working together! :)

English Amiga Board (https://eab.abime.net/index.php)

- News (https://eab.abime.net/forumdisplay.php?f=29)

- - Gotek Floppy emulators and Amiga computers now working together! :) (https://eab.abime.net/showthread.php?t=72467)

Yep, guilty as charged! :D

Quote:

Originally Posted by dJOS (Post 1006580)

Yep, guilty as charged! :D

Steve Vizard & the Hinch demos are great :D

Quote:

Originally Posted by ransom1122 (Post 1006581)

Steve Vizard & the Hinch demos are great :D

They are 2 of my all time favs, I found the disks in a box of my a500 floppies about 2 years ago and made ADF's of them - the disks still work great too. It's amazing that I didnt throw the disks out after more than 15 years and 5 interstate moves! :shocked

Just stumbled upon this and rememberd "voes by prolific" some people have. This may help, apparently there are drivers for fake prolific chips that work on Win7 32/64, maybe flashing would work with them :)

http://nerdralph.blogspot.in/2013/09...tl-serial.html

Quote:

Originally Posted by Solo761 (Post 1012546)

Not related to this. But Solo761. Just wanted to say THANK YOU for your Mkick disk you made to softboot A500 1.3 to 3.1! Works like a treat on my A500 with 512kb expansion. I also used the original disk rather than the 2 updated memory chips version.

I'm glad it's useful to someone :). Original version should work for most people, other two versions were tries to get it to work with kipper2k's 8MB CF board. For me (somewhat odd configuration, A500 rev8a, modded to A500+ 1MB chip ram + 512kB expansion, that gets added to chip since it works as a500+) it worked on and off so I tried to specify memory locations to load kickstart in case mkick sometimes borked this by itself. But it didn't make difference. On vanilla A500 (512 chip / 512 fast) it worked without issues for some reason.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Solo761 (Post 1012866)

I presume mine is the vanilla version. Now I'm hungry...

Quote:

Originally Posted by kipper2k (Post 955747)

Here is an updated buzzer mod, uses a 5v buzzer now connected to the 5v rail ...

1 x BC547 or similar bipolar transistor
1 x 1k resistor
1 x magnetic type buzzer (Digikey # 668-1373-nd

below shows the buzzer attached to the top part of the case, fits nicely :)

Transistor bipolar BS270 is work for this mod?

Quote:

Originally Posted by danko (Post 1020406)

Transistor bipolar BS270 is work for this mod?

it should but for compatibility sake i would stick with this series...

https://www.fairchildsemi.com/datasheets/BC/BC547.pdf

I will have pictures hopefully very soon on 2 new floppy emulators

Quote:

Originally Posted by danko (Post 1020406)

Transistor bipolar BS270 is work for this mod?

I don't recommend at all these kind of mod. In my firmware i will provide the sound output on a GPIO of the MCU (one available on the jumper block). A direct driving may be enough (no transistor at all).
By this way you don't have to drawn current from the open collector floppy bus and make the thing unreliable...

Quote:

Originally Posted by Solo761 (Post 951485)

Dang, I had some buzzers I got with PC cases, who knows where they ended :). Luckily I found some one ebay, 10 pcs for $2. At first I looked for "piezo speaker" and found only 5 pcs for $4-5.

My remote mod is finally finished, it took a long time for attiny's to arrive :p. Here's how it looks, Arduino is used only as 5V power supply

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=djEaGpLKzmc

And how it works inside A500, sensor is sensitive enough to work without "direct aim"

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Wgb2cVb1YCw

Here's the schematic

http://thumbnails109.imagebam.com/32...a323154937.jpg

And this is how it works:

Button push on gotek connects STM MCU pins PC7 (right button, counter up) or PC8 (left button, counter down) to GND. That's how it registers a click.

ATtiny receives signal from IR sensor on PB0 and depending on code received toggles it's PB1 (counter up) or PB2 (counter down) from high to low for short amount of time. This triggers STM pins PC7 and/or PC8 who and registers as a click.

LED that's connected to ATtiny's PB4 is used to signal when the remote is tuned. I'm using small universal remote that supports a lot of devices, it cycles through them when you press mute and when it gets to one that ATtiny recognizes it will use this LED to send signal so we know when to release the mute button. This only needs to be done once, when prepping new remote.

THere's a jumper connected to PB3, it's purpose is to separate two code sets at hardware level. ATtiny recognizes 4 code sets. If your TV turnes out to react to the same codes as ATtiny you can simply switch to next one and solve this issue. It wouldn't be nice if with ADF change you change TV channel :). But it could be an issue the other way arround. ATtiny listens to all 4 code sets all the time. You could switch this mini remote to other set and solve interference with TV, but that wouldn't solve the other way around, ATtiny would react to TV remote. This jumper tries to solve that, it separates those 4 code sets to 2 and 2 on hardware level. If ATtiny reacts to TV remote simply put the jumper to those pins or remove it, what ever was at first, and it won't react to those codes anymore.

How it looks inside

http://thumbnails110.imagebam.com/32...a323153471.jpg http://thumbnails109.imagebam.com/32...2323153506.jpg

Schematic is OK, but I have to rework PCB, this one works, but it could be better (read easier) to assemble. Mostly with capacitor that's under ATtiny. It's reeeeealy tight fit and that needs to be changed.
It works with either 5V or 3.3V power supply, STM MCU works at 3.3V but input pins are 5V tolerant so it shouldn't matter. At first I used 5V, then I tried 3.3V and it also worked fine. ATtiny runs at 8 MHz (interal oscillator) and that works with 3.3V, only case where 5V would be required is if it's run at 16 MHz (Internal PLL), that requires minimum of 4.3V. But it works fine at 8 MHz so that shouldn't be an issue. If anyone's interested I can upload eagle files and ATtiny hex and source.

Hi,this remote control work this mod?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/3-Keys-Black...item3f4db8ef01

Oops, have't seen this post.

I think it wouldn't work (at least with current IR receiver firmware). It doesn't say what kind of remote it is. It could be made to work with it, but first you'd need to record codes it sends and then add them to the firmware. Not really hard, but you'd need arduino board.

This is the remote I used, here are two, only difference is color, one is white, the other one is black

http://www.ebay.com/itm/181376306618
http://www.ebay.com/itm/331439837335

Thing is they're universal remotes that cycle through supported codes while you keep mute button pressed. My firmware "listens" for these codes and when it recieves mute code it recognizes it blinks it's led to let you know remote is on correct IR code set.

Other remotes might work, but depending on the way they cycle through codes it could be harder to tune it. I hardcoded 4 code sets (2 + 2, sets switchable via jumper), one of them should correspond to LG remotes and the other to Sony remotes (other two I don't know, I had these TV's so I know they reacted along with GOTEK). So if you set your remote to Sony or LG codes it might work.

OK, question about framing/support..
(And no, I don't have a 3D printer.. ;-)

So, I found out my issue with kickstart (apparently the method I was using to create ADFs wasn't a good one (they were old) and my kryoflux to ADF works; not sure what I did wrong before, but..), and I CAN boot my A1000 off of the Gotek!!

Also, I found that if I take the Gotek out of its case, the USB and buttons fit nicely where the disk would go in, and the LCD fits nicely just outside that.

But.. Right now, I have a rubber band and a few paperclips (on the outside of the case holding the rubber bands) holding the gotek board against the inside of the case.

It's enough to know that it works and lines up nicely, but even I know rubber bands aren't the best long term solution.. ;-)

I need to come up with some kind of frame to hold it in place, probably which lines up with the holes that held the old drive in place..

I've done some basic electronics, but not building guides to hold in cards..

So, thoughts on how I should proceed?

I was thinking trying to use some plastic sticks (I can probably find something??) and super gluing them together?

Or possibly thin metal strips bent into place?

Is there something that works better/worse for custom frames for electronics???
Luckily, this is going inside a case, so I'm OK if it looks bad, but still would like it to survive my plugging in the USB stick..

Any help you could provide would be.. um.. er.. helpful.. ;-)

Thanx,

OK, this is what I have done:
http://i1014.photobucket.com/albums/...pspthhhcok.jpg

And from the front, it looks like:
http://i1014.photobucket.com/albums/...pszy4zfnnd.jpg

Yes, those are cut down plastic forks.. ;-)
I didn't realize that they lined up as well as they did.
I can add 2 more if I need to.. We'll see how stable it is...

For the Gotek:
Slot 1 is my kickwork boot disk that boots KS 1.3, then loads the RAM and IDE/CF drivers (tomthul models) and finishes the boot off of the CF card.
Slot2 is a standard KS 1.3.
I think slot 3 is a KS 1.3/WB1.3 floppy (no RAM/IDE drivers).

Then I have a few games starting at slot 5.
Don't want to put too many in there, as I won't remember what is in what slot. ;-)

desiv

Hey guys!

I did my own mod using a PNP darlington (MPSA63), a 1K resistor, a 1uF capacitor and a buzzer.

This circuit is easier and works like a charm!
http://www.retronicdesign.com/ebay/gotek/sound_mod.jpg
The buzzer I used is a SBT-12 https://www.westfloridacomponents.co...+SBT-1212.html but any buzzer 5V to 12V with any frequency should work.

The peak generated by Gary is so tiny that it has to be stretched by the cap and a transistor with a large Beta or else, you can't hear it.

Result really sound like a floppy!

Quote:

Originally Posted by Gimpy (Post 1036962)

So instead of the very synthetic "beeps" most sound mods make, this sounds properly mechanical?

Not entirely but the output waveform is more natural than only a pulse;
http://www.retronicdesign.com/ebay/gotek/waveform.bmp
You can clearly see the two charging curves of both transistors in the darlington and the capacitor charge

Quote:

Originally Posted by Gimpy (Post 1036962)

I'm no electronics hobbyist but can solder things where they need to go. Do you have a photo of how you've connected so I can understand the points you've used? Thanks.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Gimpy (Post 1036962)

Result really sound like a floppy!

Any change of a sound sample, perhaps a YT vid?

Hi All,
Ive read the entire thread, and Googled with no direct answer...

I have flashed numerous Goteks for the Amiga....and I have all manner of USB sticks and SD cards with USB adapters working fine, except this Sandisk Cruzer Fit 8GB. I have noted others saying this particular model works OK, and these were bought from a reputable Aussie retailer.

I have cleaned it, reformatted it, tried different allocation sizes and numerous copies of SELECTOR.ADF...all to no avail. I put the USB stick in the Gotek, it flashes 000 then ---. I have tried 2 brand new sticks, both with the same issue. I have the same model in a 16Gb and it works perfectly. Of course in the PC they work perfectly.

There is general mention of some sticks not being compatible with the Gotek...does anyone have any thoughts?

Quote:

Originally Posted by voyager_1701e (Post 1047166)

I have noted others saying this particular model works OK, and these were bought from a reputable Aussie retailer.

That model is annoying. It has given me trouble with my 1541U-II as well. Something about it makes it a bit incompatible I guess. It works with some things but doesn't with others.
My iBook G4 also does NOT like that USB stick.

I know it's super tempting to get it because of its ultra small profile (so it doesn't stick out of your AMiga much), but I bought two different ones and they have all given me trouble. I ended up using them where they worked: my Raspberry Pi and my XBox 360.