Just received mine ... Flashed with latest firmware + sound hack ... and no boot on my A1200 :( Just Showing [ - - - ]

Make sure you've put the selector.adf file on the USB flash drive. If so and it still doesn't work, try using a different flash drive - apparently some are incompatible with the firmware.

just retrying with another usb key and working... weird :

Not working : Kingston DT101G2 : 4Go
Working : Kingston DT G3 : 32go

:)

edit: i can up/down in the menu but not select a drawer. enter key ? (maybe my keyboard...)

try a joystick

Working ;)

which sound hack? and what is the volume level like ?

This one : http://retroramblings.net/?p=777

Volume is ~ like real Floppy :) (maybe little bit less loud)

http://youtu.be/YhmIcTvG_TI

I've tested SoccerKid with real floppies and it's definitely something to do with gotek. Game won't recognize disk change, I've tried five versions of boot disks and it's the same with every adf. At first I used external floppy and X-Copy to transfer from gotek to real floppy and it passed without errors, when I swapped gotek with real floppy those two acted the same as Gotek.

Then I used tsgui to write same ADFs to the same floppies and this time it worked correctly, game recognized floppy change. Game worked fine even on Amiga 600, kick 3.1, 2MB chip and ACA620EC, and also on this A500(+) so it's not "strange" configurations that are problematic.

I used "Soccer Kid (1993)(Krisalis)(M5)(Disk 1 of 4)(Boot)[cr ATX][t +9 ATX].adf" as boot disk in both Gotek and real floppy drive.

Can you use the verify in xcopy to compare the two different floppies.

Just tried the disks on my 1200 = No problem

Now going to try my A500 Plus with External Drive...
= FAIL = Guru 8000000B 0007A624
(just after the intro anim, whether you watch it or not)

Scanned with X-copy = PASSED

AGA Disks ? Surely Not ?

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...5.png~original

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...1.png~original

Wow, that sound is almost as annoying as my HxC!!!

I've did some more testing today, it's really strange. In the end I put gotek in external closure and tried to make ADFs from mounted Soccer Kid ADFs. First one was, NDOS disk, but second, third and fourth one aren't. For third one it mounted one of Super Skidmarks ADFs. It seems it wrong ADFs. I tried renaming them to SocKidxx.adf and moved them in a folder in root of USB stick (called it "test") and game started. It seems that there's an issue with mounting ADFs, I'm still not sure if it's because of long file names or because there's 120 files in "S" folder.
Also, it's interesting that it always mounted the first floppy correctly, but had problems when changing while in game. Maybe Soccer Kid holds floppy drive in some way so gotek firmware can't access the list correctly? I guess we'll have to wait for HM to figure this out.

If it is an active low on the step, why not use a BC557 (PNP) BJT instead?

(EDIT: And to be on the SAFE side, wire that buzzer to +5V, it makes little difference to sound volume, but it makes a huge difference if the transistor breaks down and you send the buzzer voltage directly to the step pin.)

The complication with that idea is that the Amiga's Step pin is open collector and the µC in the Gotek only pulls it up to around 3v.

True - added to which the mod will then work even in external drive enclosures that omit the +12v wiring from their power plug.

Ah, I get it. Did not think about that.

Saftey foremost, the CIA might tolerate getting +5V on that pin, since that is within TTL levels, but it will not tolerate +12V, and transistors like BC547 sometimes break down, sending the collector voltage through the base and emitter.

I changed the power supply from the 12v rail to the 5v rail and it is still good, i'll post updated pic later

After some more tests i made,i found out that having an 68000/14.2Mhz along with the gotek drive, actually reduces loading times ~20%-25% in many games!
As you might already figure, this is because many games have data on disk COMPRESSED, so after loading them from disk, they need to be uncompressed!
And since compression/decompression procedures are rather cpu intensive, having the cpu in double clock speed, reduces fair enough the actual waiting times!
For example in agony, using disks or gotek with a standard amiga it needs about 125sec from pressing fire until starting to play. Using 68000/14 and gotek this time reduces to ~100sec! ;)

Here is an updated buzzer mod, uses a 5v buzzer now connected to the 5v rail ...

1 x BC547 or similar bipolar transistor
1 x 1k resistor
1 x magnetic type buzzer (Digikey # 668-1373-nd

http://kipper2k.com/amiga/gotek/gotek.jpg


below shows the buzzer attached to the top part of the case, fits nicely :)


http://kipper2k.com/amiga/gotek/gotekmagbuzzer.jpg

Very simple hack... Excellent :)

I am still in problems to connect the device successfully. I was using the protec usb adapter, bought a second one that comes all covered in black plastic, and I just received a third one, this time a CP2102 one.

And the gotek behaves EXACTLY like it was before, when connecting the green Tx light is very dim, and it is not recognized, not in windows and not even in linux. When I try to connect to it, the dim green light goes off (just the red power light stays on). If I reset, the device goes back to dim green Tx and bright power leds.

The adapter itself shows fine on /dev/ on linux (tty and cu) and also on windows, the driver install OK and it shows on the configuration, I was using COM4.

If I test the adapter, in fact I tested al three, making a bridge from tx to rx, it gives me echo commands on a serial terminal.

So, the gotek I got could be damaged? Weird thing is that I bought two, one with display and buttons and one without them, to test. Both do the same thing.

I saw on some ebay auction that the 3.3v line was also connected, what is that for? Is not used just to reset? Check here:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Gotek-Floppy...item19ecf5ab58

It says: "Here we have a CP2102-based USB to TTL programmer, especially modified to work with the Gotek floppy emulator. An extra connector has been fitted to the 3.3 volt line so that the device can easily be set into programming mode."

SPECIALLY MODIFIED? It's not supposed to work without any modification, just as-is?

Any ideas? I am completely stuck here...