Not critical, but I used 35mm.

This is not bad already :).

Perhaps with new firmware revisions... :spin:nervous

OK, I got my USB thing in the mail and it tells you what pins are what so that's good.

Now... which one of these Breakable Pin Headers should I buy?!!?!?!?!

http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_odkw...at=0&_from=R40

Any of those square across diameter ones will do (to clarify, not the round ones, they are to small). A friend of mine did not even solder the pins in place, just stuck them in there and flashed the drive. Though personally, I prefer to do soldering and make sure it is all really neatly done..

as johan says.. the square ones...
this is the cheapest free shipping/buy out I can find on the list..
http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-10pcs-40...item27db87dc8c

a small tip. solder the shorter side.
the pins can move through the plastic, so you can adjust the length accordingly

Hopefully
:great

Dang, I had some buzzers I got with PC cases, who knows where they ended :). Luckily I found some one ebay, 10 pcs for $2. At first I looked for "piezo speaker" and found only 5 pcs for $4-5.

My remote mod is finally finished, it took a long time for attiny's to arrive :p. Here's how it looks, Arduino is used only as 5V power supply

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=djEaGpLKzmc

And how it works inside A500, sensor is sensitive enough to work without "direct aim"

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Wgb2cVb1YCw

Here's the schematic

http://thumbnails109.imagebam.com/32...a323154937.jpg

And this is how it works:

Button push on gotek connects STM MCU pins PC7 (right button, counter up) or PC8 (left button, counter down) to GND. That's how it registers a click.

ATtiny receives signal from IR sensor on PB0 and depending on code received toggles it's PB1 (counter up) or PB2 (counter down) from high to low for short amount of time. This triggers STM pins PC7 and/or PC8 who and registers as a click.

LED that's connected to ATtiny's PB4 is used to signal when the remote is tuned. I'm using small universal remote that supports a lot of devices, it cycles through them when you press mute and when it gets to one that ATtiny recognizes it will use this LED to send signal so we know when to release the mute button. This only needs to be done once, when prepping new remote.

THere's a jumper connected to PB3, it's purpose is to separate two code sets at hardware level. ATtiny recognizes 4 code sets. If your TV turnes out to react to the same codes as ATtiny you can simply switch to next one and solve this issue. It wouldn't be nice if with ADF change you change TV channel :). But it could be an issue the other way arround. ATtiny listens to all 4 code sets all the time. You could switch this mini remote to other set and solve interference with TV, but that wouldn't solve the other way around, ATtiny would react to TV remote. This jumper tries to solve that, it separates those 4 code sets to 2 and 2 on hardware level. If ATtiny reacts to TV remote simply put the jumper to those pins or remove it, what ever was at first, and it won't react to those codes anymore.

How it looks inside

http://thumbnails110.imagebam.com/32...a323153471.jpg http://thumbnails109.imagebam.com/32...2323153506.jpg

Schematic is OK, but I have to rework PCB, this one works, but it could be better (read easier) to assemble. Mostly with capacitor that's under ATtiny. It's reeeeealy tight fit and that needs to be changed.
It works with either 5V or 3.3V power supply, STM MCU works at 3.3V but input pins are 5V tolerant so it shouldn't matter. At first I used 5V, then I tried 3.3V and it also worked fine. ATtiny runs at 8 MHz (interal oscillator) and that works with 3.3V, only case where 5V would be required is if it's run at 16 MHz (Internal PLL), that requires minimum of 4.3V. But it works fine at 8 MHz so that shouldn't be an issue. If anyone's interested I can upload eagle files and ATtiny hex and source.

Wouldn't they have been the type with built-in drive circuitry, though? You don't want that type.

Yup, they should be fine - I used 35mm ones rather than 20, but it shouldn't make a massive difference.

Nice work! Have you considered making it "teachable" so you can use any old remote you have lying around? (I made an infra-red repeater gizmo using an Arduino Duemilianova a while back - a kind of macro recorder - and stored learned programs in eeprom. I'll dig out the source sometime if it'd be helpful? I used Ken Shirriff's IR library.)

Thanks!!!

Usually yes, like standard miniature speaker. But for some reason I got few with an ITX case.

Now that I think about it, I wonder if size has to do with the tone or with the volume? I hope it's only volume, it won't be nice if it's more screechy than bigger one :shocked. Hopefully not, I only want some audio feedback if game is loading or if something is stuck :).

Yes, but that would make it more complex. There should be a button to enter learning mode, and probably one to switch between functions to learn. Or just one button and you'd need to go through all functions, even if you want to change only one function.

I had remote like this so I used that. Power button resets counter to 000 (makes both buttons pressed), ch up is count up, ch down is count down, volume left is button up toggle (you click it and it "keeps" the button pressed for fast forward until you click it again), volume right is button down toggle and mute is used to tune the remote.

In first version I also used Ken Shirriff's IR library, but it was flaky. Once tuned it worked fine, but tuning was too unreliable. For second version I used LadyAda's IR tutorial. It works flawlessly every time. Plus with this "raw" reading method compiled hex is under 2kB, it can work with either ATtiny84 and 85. With IR library it was 6+, it could only fit in ATtiny85.

I'm sure it'll be OK - all it does is make a "tick" every time the drive head steps, so if you double-sided-tape it to the Gotek's casing, I doubt it'll sound significantly different from the larger ones :)

Yes, agreed, it'd make the project much more complex.

I haven't come across that one - I must look into it :)

Yeah that counts for a lot. Actually (and yes, I know I'm drifting off topic now) have you played with one of these? http://www.cypress.com/?rid=92146
They look pretty neat - I definitely want to have a play with them. Cheap enough to throw casually into a project, and I love the snap-off-the-USB-plug-when-programmed idea. Could even use the stub afterwards to program a Gotek drive!

Got one of these last week, it's awesome.

A great way to bring an Amiga 500 into the 21st century :)

I've ordered another. I have 5 Amiga 500s :)

Yup, more complex, not necessarily unneeded, but a bit overkill for my usage. Goal was to simply make it work :). Improvement could be to make it learn. When I wrote it yesterday I figured it wouldn't be that much of a change hardware wise. One more button to initiate learning and probably blinking leds to signal what function is next to be learned. Maybe switch LED with bi color LED, same space (I don't want to riddle front side of the gotek with new LEDs :D) so blinking one color would be to signal function to be learned and blinking another color would indicate if it was successful. It could be done with one, but it would be easier to follow with two colors :).

I've attached Eagle schematic, arudino source and compiled hex files for ATtiny84 and 85.

Here's the link i used

https://learn.adafruit.com/ir-sensor/using-an-ir-sensor

Nope, I haven't. Looks very interesting, way more powerful than simple ATtiny and ATmega :). Luckily I don't have an idea where to use one so I'm safe :D. They're even cheaper than ATtinies I found on ebay :shocked. But postage from most of distributers is "ouch" :/.

Using the Pololu Corp. driver installer under Win 7 x64, everything isntall just fine, though under device manager I am unable to locate the driver needed to make this device work...

no go there.

Under Win XP x32, the Silicon Labs driver installs fine with the installer, though the Pololu Corp driver fails, it says the drivers are unsigned.

no go there.

Also device manager naturally states that there are no drivers for the device.

I went back to my Win 7 machine and used alternative drivers that I saw listed somewhere in this thread. Anyhow, that worked like a charm, I only had to unplug and replug the USB Serial Device into my machine once after the firmware had been erased, after that it flashed fine and seems to work on the Amiga.

Funny, considering that I did not wait for my headers and just cut out some wire and did a quick and dirty solder job to pull this off, then removed all the solder for when my headers do come in.

Aside of the drivers, there was little to no fuss.

I love the work being done on this, now even with drive sounds!!! So good.
I think I will get one of these just to try the fantastic work everybody has done on it. Great job!

Main Gotec with external buttons (no cut - no holes ..) :)

http://s28.postimg.org/jh1menx8d/gotec_1.jpg http://s28.postimg.org/tv2g7whz1/gotec_2.jpg
http://s9.postimg.org/bgr20a85b/gotec_3.jpg http://s30.postimg.org/mbrp175td/gotec_4.jpg
http://s15.postimg.org/x0nsqe3a3/gotec_5.jpg

Quick question. If you have no 7 segment display, is there an easy way to get to a high disk number, or do you have to be patient, remember the number you were on last, then click the button the corresponding number of times?

Does the selector application currently have any option to choose the disk number to be inserted on exit, or will it default to 001?

The last disk used is stored for next use, so if you last used #9 then when you next power on/insert the usb stick you will start at #9

Excellent idea !!!

Stili waiting for mine ... and i thing i will follow you ;)